My Ride on Emily...

Il 13 giugno

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

I've always loved elephants; there's something about their size, their lumbering walk, and the way they take care of their young that leaves me fascinated. So, it was with great excitement that I climbed up on Emily and, along with a few friends, took a 45 minute stroll through the grasslands. Of course, Emily is trained to be gentle and obey on command so there was no danger in riding her, but just the idea of sitting on an elephant in Zimbabwe and having her “just for me” was one of those “WOW” experiences...another truly African adventure.

Flight of a Lifetime...

Il 12 guigno
Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

Those who know me well are keenly aware of my fear of heights. It goes far beyond a case of nerves and, on more than one occasion, I have had to“will” my almost catatonic body to move; so great is my phobia. So I had no intention of getting into a helicopter and flying over Victoria Falls...that is, until Lea and Charles talked me into it, promising to do whatever it took to keep me feeling safe. I owe my“Flight of a Lifetime” to this lovely couple from North Carolina who, with their friendship and support, empowered me to have my grandest adventure yet.

Arriving at the airfield, the level of excitement our group of four experienced only increased when we saw the helicopter revving up the engines. I sat up front next to the pilot and once on board, we were in the air within moments. The view of the falls from above was sheer magic and everywhere one looked evoked another “ahh...” There was never any fear; only a feeling of thankfulness and awe in the presence of greatness.

   

Victoria Falls - Majesty and a Shower...

Il 11 giugno

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

After a 90 minute flight we arrived at the Victoria Falls Airport and quickly got on line to purchase our double entry visas. After that and a greeting by some native dancers, it was a short drive to the Victoria Falls Hotel for a three night stay at this very stately British retreat where the spray of the Falls could be seen in its full glory and the manicured grounds were a feast for the eye. We settled in and had a chance to unpack and then it was a quick trip to the entrance of the Victoria Falls park. We were given full-length rain ponchos to keep us dry, or at least to keep us from getting completely soaked from the spray which is like a downpour when the wind blows at just the right angle.

My words will not do justice to describing the grandeur and majesty of Victoria Falls. Their sheer magnitude and awe-inspiring power left us giddy and the rainbow that
welcomed us lit up the sky with its magical presence.

Out Of Africa. - The Journey Begins...

Il 10 giugno

Johannesburg, South Africa

Two days in Johannesburg (often referred to as Joburg) can hardly qualify me to write about the city, although 48 hours here has definitely made an impression that I feel comfortable in sharing. I'm staying in a lovely hotel in the suburb of Sandton, a relatively affluent area where the homes are electronically gated; this is a protection against frequent break-ins and also a requirement of the insurance companies who will not insure unprotected homes. At any rate, it's quite lovely and the hotel is above an upscale shopping mall with designer boutiques and Woolworth's, a gourmet food shop and restaurant where the prices are higher than in your average market and the roast chicken sandwiches delicious.

Such was my introduction to this country that I first studied when, as a high school student, I read “Cry, the Beloved Country” by Alan Paton, a story about the apartheid policy in South Africa. Years later, I watched the news broadcasts when Nelson Mandela gained his freedom after 27 years in prison and when the apartheid policies that controlled the country for so many years were finally abolished. I remember the riots in Soweto and watching my television screen capture the event, but I was a spectator and could commiserate only from afar. As an American who has never lacked for anything, I never really understood poverty, not that I do now, for my belly is never crying from the pain of hunger and I have never known a night where I didn't have a bed to sleep in and a roof over my head.

So how do I describe a place that I've known for only two days where what I have primarily seen is a clear demarcation between the have's and the have-nots. (I fear that whatever I write will not be an adequate description.) Johannesburg is vibrant with commercial growth and urban development, full of enthusiastic fervor for its national sports teams, and pulsing with the energy of a city working hard to right the wrongs of the past. It is a “sea” of contrasts from the beautiful tree-lined streets of the affluent communities to Soweto with its streets of shanties and tin shacks and government housing.

The Hector Pieterson Museum in Soweto is a collection, preservation, and interpretation of the history and legacy of the 1976 national uprisings; those days when rioting, fear, and death filled the streets of this community. Since then there have been changes in the educational system (English, not Afrikaans is the language of instruction) and there are opportunities for the economic and social advancement for these people who were forced to give up their homes and move to the outskirts of town. Progress, however, does not happen quickly, although our tour guide was positive and enthusiastic about the changes in Soweto; her ready smile was in marked contrast to some of the teenagers who were clearly observing us in a way that left me uncomfortable. One of the problems, also, that the country is facing is the increasing number of illegal immigrants coming in. Having no place to live, they are contributing to the population living on the streets or under the make-shift tin roofs.

My time in Johannesburg was really a starting point for my trip, rather than a place to “play tourist.” I left the city with a better understanding of its history, a greater appreciation of how far it has come, economically and socially, and an awareness of the challenges that still lie ahead.

La Belle France...

Il 7 giugno

Frauenberg, France

I've spent the last six days in eastern France visiting with my dear friend, Janine, who has lived and worked here for many years. She is, in effect, a “native” and experiencing just a bit of her daily life has been a treat. Frauenberg is a small village in Alsace-Lorraine, the region in France that borders Germany. It's one of those places in the country that the tourist wouldn't visit, retaining that lovely feel of a small, “untainted” haven whose citizens greet one another in the street. It is in Sarreguemines, the neighboring town, where people go to do their shopping and take care of business. For me, that meant a trip to the pharmacy, the hairdresser, a local bar/cafe and some of the many charming restaurants that are found there.

Frauenberg is, actually, in Lorraine, although these last few days I've seen much of Alsace as Janine drove to Mulhouse on Sunday, giving me an opportunity to see this beautiful and lush forested area. It rained heavily a good part of the way, but that didn't dampen our spirits as we traveled along country roads surrounded by verdant foliage, sloping hills, and vineyards. Walking the cobble-stoned streets of Ribeauville and then Riquewihr, whose houses are built within the city wall, was a journey back to the Middle Ages. Monday began with a trip to the automobile museum where the collection of the Bugatti's was worth the price of admission; let alone all the other vintage cars from the early buggies to the chauffeured Rolls Royce of yesteryear. Colmar, another medieval town, was next on our itinerary; a charming, almost bustling site where local people live and work, besides it being a tourist destination.

On Tuesday morning, Janine and I walked to the outskirts of town where the old and abandoned Jewish cemetery is found. Tombstones, some crumbling, covered the hill and high weeds covered most of the tombs. It was unsettling to see the condition of the cemetery, although I was told that once a year, right before the Jewish High Holy Days, a gardener comes to clean it up. (I returned the next day to spend some quiet time there and to say the Kaddish prayer for those who have long been buried; some from the 1800's.) Driving into Sarreguemines in the afternoon, we found the synagogue, built in 1959, long after the original one was destroyed. We had the very good fortune to meet Monsieur Levi who was there to do some “synagogue business” and he unlocked the door and invited us in. This lovely and funny man showed us around and pointed out the plaque honoring the memory of those families who were deported by the Nazis. I also learned that before Napolean, Jews were not allowed to live in the cities so they moved to the outlying villages...which is why there is a cemetery and a synagogue, or the remains of one, in each of the villages in the region.

Wednesday was my last day and what a perfect way to end my stay....a bit of shopping, couscous for lunch ( I haven't eaten authentic couscous with all the trimmings since my college days in Paris!), and foie gras and white wine for dinner...this visit was, indeed, a memorable treasure. Merci, Janine.

Lago Trasimeno ~ Isola Polvese

Il 24 maggio

Assisi

Yesterday was my last day of class and, although I thoroughly appreciate l'Accademia Lingua Italiana Assisi, being able to enjoy myself here without homework and studying, is surely a treat. Ingrid and I celebrated by going to Lago Trasimeno, a large and delightfully blue lake that meanders through Toscana and Umbria. We stopped off in a couple of places along the way to take in the views and then, arriving at San Feliciano, we took the ferry to Isola Polvese, the largest of the three islands in the lake. Complete with hiking trails, medieval ruins and an environmentally friendly, fully-restored ancient farm (now a hostel) where we had lunch, Isola Polvese is, in actuality, a scientific-study park where there are residence facilities to research the local fauna and flora.

After an outdoor lunch and some relaxation time overlooking the lake, we walked around the island, stopping to explore the few Roman and medieval ruins. Ingrid took me to some of her favorite spots along the shore where the rocks were large enough to sit on and dangle one's feet in the cool water. The day was definitely one of “being in the country” and a chance to breathe in the sweet-smelling air and revel, once again, in the beauty of nature.

Www.fattoriaisolapolvese.com

Bevagna...

Il 18 maggio ed il 20 maggio

Assisi

I'm already in my last week here and have been so wonderfully busy that posting blog entries has been put aside. It's a beautiful, sunny Sunday morning and in between laundry and packing, I am finding some moments to get caught up and share my comings and goings. I have talked about the beauty of the Umbrian Valley which only gets magnified the more I see of it. There are many charming hilltop cities nestled in the mountains, but a car is necessary to get to most of them and, last Friday, Janet suggested that we go to Bevagna, a spot she had visited before and always enjoyed going back to. Bevagna has the stillness of centuries past with the flavor of an ordinary life in an intimate, walled medieval city. We began our day there with coffee in the piazza and a conversation with a “local”, a gentleman who had lived outside of Italy for many years, but came back to Bevagna to retire and enjoy the simple lifestyle in the soothing ambiance of his home town.

There weren't too many visitors so we (Janet, Ingrid, and I) had the luxury of a leisurely stroll and stopping wherever and whenever we wanted. Of course, that meant buying a couple of vibrantly colored cotton dishtowels to add to my collection and a visit to the local pasticcieria from where I left with a bag full of assorted pastries, all of which were consumed in two days! Besides food and souvenirs, however, we did take in a history lesson. At the beginning of the 20^th century, ruins of a 2^nd century Roman bathhouse were discovered in Bevagna and after years of a painstaking recovery process, which was not completed until 1982 as everything was covered with piles of dirt and rubble, the delightful mosaics of animal marine life were revealed. One could almost feel the activily in this public bathhouse as the Romans came to bathe, get massages with perfumed oil, talk politics, and, undoubtably, do a bit of gossipping....for what else is a bathhouse for! Also at one end of town are the remains of a Roman ampitheater which now has stone houses built into the ruins of the walls and is, in itself, a quaint peaceful neighborhood to live in.

We walked into the local theater, still on its original site from 1886, but fully restored and accommodating 250 places, only to find a number of teens feverishly working on the set-up for the weekend performance of “Grease.” Learning that this group had done everything completely on their own-from flyers to props to costumes to choreography and directing, Ingrid and I purchased tickets to return for Sunday night's performance...which we did on a rainy night. The enthusism of the cast was well-worth the trip and, of course, there was dinner at an “Agritourismo” in Montefalco, a charming inn where the homemade pasta with vegetables, panna cotta con frutti di bosco (berries), and Prosecco all made for another grand evening in the Umbrian Valley.

Www.camianopiccolo.com

Why Assisi?...

Il 21 maggio

Assisi

Having spent six out of the past twenty months in Assisi, I've been asking myself lately, “Why Assisi?” Why do I have this continual pull to return to a medieval city in Umbria when there is an entire country to explore? Granted, I have been to the well-known spots - Roma, Firenze, Pisa, Siena, Milano, Venezia, Bologna, and Cinque Terre and explored the rolling hills of the Chianti region in Toscana during these last visits, and when I was in college, I spent time on the Amalfi Coast and visited Pompeii. There have been many other towns that I've gone to, whether by train or car, but as much as I've loved exploring parts of this beautiful country and will continue to do so as I have only begun to “scratch the surface”, it is to Umbria and to Assisi, in particular, that I return to for extended visits. And what is it about Italy that keeps me coming back when my wanderlust still has a long list of places to visit before I die?

Italy is a country in social and economic turmoil. Changing from the lira to the euro started a downward spiral for the people here; at least, those I have spoken with tell me that. Seemingly, overnight, prices doubled, and it wasn't simply the luxury items, but the basic needs of food, clothing, and shelter. I have even noticed the increased price of food since my first extended trip here in the fall of 2010. The unemployment rate is over 30%; I watched a television program last week where college graduates were being interviewed; each of them wanting to work and sending out resume after resume, but with no success. Many adults in their 30's are still living at home with their parents as even renting an apartment has become too costly for many. The latest crisis to befall the country is the ever more common number of suicides taking place as many can no longer afford to pay their bills and see no other way out. With the ouster of Berlusconi last fall and the start of new leadership under Monti, there was a hope among many that I know that there would be improvement in the country. With the treasury lacking money, however, and the state of the euro in international crisis, Monti has had to substantially increase taxes which, however necessary, has placed an additional burden on those already struggling to get by. Like the rest of Europe, like the rest of the world, Italy is experiencing economic hardship and faces an uncertain future.

I could say that my being here helps the country in a small way; I pay rent, I buy groceries,I buy clothes, I eat out in restaurants, but as much as I don't consider myself a tourist in this country, I need to be honest about my life here. I am not Italian and so I can enjoy everything this country has to offer and leave it when I want to...but I am returning here more than I am leaving...which brings me back to my original question of “Why Assisi?”

This city is simply a beautiful place (un bel posto); there are no “bad” neighborhoods, there is no graffiti on the walls, and I have never felt unsafe. At one time there was a population of 3,000, but after the earthquake of 1997 which devastated much of Umbria, many left the area, especially the younger people because there is little to do here in the evening, and now there are approximately 900 inhabitants. During the tourist season, the city is packed with people, which is wonderful for the restaurants, markets, and shops, but the very cold winter months bring few visitors and the city is often eerily quiet.

I never seem to tire of walking about the city or looking out at the Umbrian Valley. I am not a Christian so the many churches here don't have particular religious importance for me, but I am in awe of their sheer size, beauty, and historical significance. Every time I walk into la Basilica di San Francesco, I am taken aback by the brilliance of the frescoes, and am reminded of my own religious faith and deep belief in G-d. Maybe that's one of the reasons I keep coming here; there's something about this place that brings me back to my core and reminds me how truly blessed I am. Hand in hand with that, every person I have met in Assisi has shown me warmth and kindness. Along with loving the physical beauty and charm of the Umbrian Valley, Italy, and Assisi in particular, has reminded me of the importance of the human connection; the great joy I experience with every chance meeting and the realization that each of us can make a difference; it doesn't take much to bring a smile to someone's day.

Il Giro d'Italia - Always Another Hill to Climb...

Il 15 maggio

Assisi

Assisi is one of those places where, at certain times of the year, the weather can “change on a dime.” I have often woken up to bright sunshine (che bella giornata!), only to experience a marked drop in temperature, brisk wind, and rain all in the span of a few hours (che tempo brutto!) The only way to be prepared for this is to dress in layers, always wear a scarf (I like to leave the house with two-one for style and another one for warmth), and have a portable umbrella in your handbag. This past week has run the gamut so I have had to be flexible with my plans. Actually, I've learned that in Italy “flexibility” is a must; so much of what happens is “dipende!” (that depends!) and, for me, life here is different every time.

Although I've been busy with school, I'm spending a lot of time with friends-old and new, having “mini” adventures everyday, and, more and more, eating out in local restaurants. I've decided that I can show off my Italian cooking skills when I get home; when in Italia, why not enjoy what the local eateries have to offer and practice my Italian at the same time. Eating has always been a “high point” for me so Italy is a rather perfect place to be.

Today in Assisi was all about il Giro d'Italia (Italy's answer to the Tour de France.) This bicycle race is a very big deal for the country and, as a small part of one of the stages was a ride through town, the streets were decked out in pink balloons, packed with vans for TV personnel and equipment, full of lots of vendors selling souvenirs to commemorate the day, and loaded with tourists and locals mingling together to cheer on the cyclists and get a look at them as they crossed the finish line. Many of the streets were blocked off and, because I had “il pranzo” out and didn't go home for lunch, by the time I tried to get back to my apartment to get my camera, it turned out to be impossible. So I just “squeezed in” the crowd and, actually, had a quick glance at the cyclist who won the stage. (Cycling up the steep Via Portica and into the Piazza del Commune is no easy feat!) Since the streets are narrow, one could almost touch the riders as they passed by, preceded by cars with officials, emergency vehicles, lots of honking horns...it was very much a 21^st century day in this 12^th century town.

And The Winner Is...

Il 6 maggio

Assisi

It is about 9:00 am; my voice is hoarse, my throat is sore...and I just received a text message from Janet letting me know that Sopra won this year's Calendimaggio. Although my allegiance was with Sotto, not being an Assisani, I am not as “serious” about the competition as the locals...and I have friends living in Sopra who are very happy this morning...so it's all good. Yesterday afternoon was “La sfida” (The Challenge) and each side presented “extravagant” performances, trying to outdo one another. The spectacular nature of these plays can only be truly appreciated if one sees them live as their pageantry, scenery and props, originality of story, music, song, and dance plus the sheer number of performers is simply something to behold.

As there was yet a final competition last night, a group of us went to Janet's house for dinner and wine and lots of conviviality before the 9:30 pm conclusion. The longer I am in Assisi, the more fascinating people I am introduced to and the more “coincidences” I experience. Meeting Ingrid last night, a writer and long-time resident of Assisi, whose best friend is a woman I met in an Italian class in San Diego two years ago, was just one of those “Aha moments.” (And the list goes on...)

We arrived back in the Piazza shortly before 9:30, but, as this is Italy, nothing started until 10:30...which was fine because it gave me a chance to visit with Mauro, a taxi driver here who took me to the station last December, and has become a delightful friend. The evening performances have fire eaters, people in medieval costumes walking on stilts, and lots of torches and flames....quite extraordinary....and only in Assisi.

Calendimaggio - Il Secondo Giorno

Il 5 maggio

Assisi

Yesterday was an exciting “Day Two” of Calendimaggio as it was time for the games - “Giochi di sfida tra le Parti: corsa delle tregge and tiro all fune” - the log sled race and the tug-of-war. These are both very strenuous and exhausting competitions between men from Sotto and Sopra; looking at the participants, if there had been any question about the physical prowess of any of them, it was quickly answered! Sotto won the log sled race and Sopra won the tug-of-war so it was 50/50 at that point. Now, the day before, there had been an archery competition; five men from each side shot at targets and the team with the most combined points won. Sotto was victorious which meant that la Madonna Primavera would be chosen from this Parte. This “Lady of Spring” is a maiden who is, ultimately, selected, not for her beauty (although all of the girls are lovely), but at random. Five girls represent Sotto and five represent Sopra and the day after the initial archery competition, the five archers from the winning team shoot their arrows once more. Each of the archers has the name of a girl hidden in his armband and when the winner of this phase is acknowledged, he hands his armband to Il Maestro di Campo who reveals this year's Madonna Primavera. The archers do not know which girl they are shooting for; the “Lady of Spring” is simply given this honor based on the skill of her archer. Perhaps, in times past, this could have been the beginning of a medieval romance; I'd like to think so. The “Tiro con l'arco per la proclamazione di Madonna Primavera” concluded the afternoon activities and then it was time for an aperitivo before dinner.

 

 

It is at night in the back streets of Sopra and Sotto that participants in Calendimaggio enact scenes from medieval life. The three judges, who are all professional expects in the period, take a “hard” look at the street scenes; the historical authenticity, creativity, and overall presentation are judged very seriously. Before dinner, Janet and I took a walk to “check out” the activily before the arrival of the judges. Although most of the set-up had aleady been done, there was a lot going on in the tucked-away streets of Sotto. Not only that, but when the judging starts at 9:30, the Parte that is re-enacting “la vita mediovale” goes dark as the streetlamps are turned off. Stepping outside last night after dinner was eerie and, except for the light of the moon, it was “pitch black.”

I woke up early this morning and was out the door before 7:00 am; walked to the back streets to see what was left of last night, but almost everything had already been dismantled and cleaned up. Too early to go to the “Open Air Market” I took a long walk on a road that overlooks the Umbrian Valley; I don't think I'll ever tire of the view and the natural beauty of this region. By then it was time to buy some produce and flowers and go back home for my caffe con latte e pane con burro e marmellata di fichi made by Trappist monks -the best fig jam I've ever eaten!

I

Let the Games Begin...

Il 3 maggio

Assisi

And so it began...the 2012 Calendimaggio in Assisi...amidst fanfare and pageantry, the waving of flags (blue for Sopra and red for Sotto), the shouting, laughter, and excited energy of those in the bleachers. The action takes place in the center of town in the Piazza del Commune; the streets leading to the area are blocked off and only those with tickets are allowed to enter. The festivities opened with the “Esibizione degli Sbandieratori di Assisi”-the performance of the Assisi flag-throwers, followed by the ringing of the City Hall bell to formally announce the start of the festival. The keys of the city are handed over to “Il Maestro di Campo” who, for these three days, reigns supreme...which means that should you have any problems (legal or otherwise), you need to find the man with the beard dressed in a long black robe of centuries past. The historical parades were next (all participants live in or were born in Assisi) with each “Parte” proudly entering - men, women, children, babies held in their mother's arms...medieval times live on once again.

www.calendimaggiodiassisi.com

When Life Gives You Broken Eggs...Make an Omelet....

Il 2 maggio             

Assisi

On Monday, my friend, Janet and I went to the supermercato in Bastia, a town just a short drive from Assisi. Janet, like me, loves Assisi and comes here often to study Italian and because she is in Italy for three months, she has rented a car...and because she is braver than I am, she is not afraid to drive the pedestrian-laden, cobble-stoned streets of Assisi. Although we both frequent the local markets, when needing lots of items, the best place to go is the supermercato and load up the trunk with bags of groceries...which is what we did.

Getting back into Assisi was a bit challenging because Monday was Day Three of a Four Day Holiday in Italy and the city was packed. A carabiniere was directing the cars to a parking lot outside the city walls, but we told him that we lived here, which is true, and he let us through. Due to the traffic, there were many stops and starts along the way and, because I haphazardly put the carton of eggs on top of my bags, it fell over and several broke. Not to be deterred by this little inconvenience, I invited Janet to lunch and, thus, from broken eggs, a spinach omelet was born. Coupled with a salad and a glass of red wine, our lunch was a veritable feast and, along with un caffe and i biscotti, we were both very content.

Then that evening, my friend, Fausto (mio fratello italiano) came to dinner. Now this was the first time I was cooking a meal for a “real Italian in Italy” so, to be on the safe side, I prepared pasta and salad, and along with some appetizers, dessert, and the bottle of wine that Fausto brought, it was a very successful evening. (For beautiful, unique jewelry, check his website as he ships worldwide. I'm already wearing two of his bracelets!) www.assisijewels.com

Calendimaggio starts tomorrow and frenzy reigns. The bleachers have been set up in la Piazza Commune and this afternoon I checked out the location of my seat. As I write this email, I can hear the sound of drums piercing the air; tonight is the last night for practice and putting the finishing touches on scenery and floats and people of both sides (la Parte de Sopra e la Parte de Sotto) will be working into the early hours of the morning.

I have started some serious reviewing of my Italian books and, this morning, I took a placement test at school. Most probably, I'll be studying privately for a few weeks, but no decision has been made yet; that will come after a conference with the school's director on Friday morning. So, until then, I can keep playing since there's no homework to do...

Back Home Again in Assisi...

Il 29 aprile

Assisi

As soon as my train arrived at the Assisi station Thursday evening, I felt, in a sense, that I was “back home.” I have been trying to understand my love for this city and why I feel the way I do when I'm here. It is, certainly, a very inviting and charming place and I stay in a terrific apartment. So, yes, I am surrounded by beauty and I have my “creature comforts.” Perhaps because it is a very small city, enclosed by walls and lived in by people who are very proud to call themselves “Assisani”, there is a certain ambiance here and a pride exhibited by its hardworking citizens. For me, it has become a familiar place-the two markets I frequent, the hairdresser who colors and cuts my hair, the boutiques where my euros always find something to buy; Assisi has become my “safe haven”- a place I come to for study and reflection and, more and more, an opportunity to spend time with my Italian friends who have become an important part of my life as I know it now.

Although I have been here for only 3 days, I have spent time with friends, eaten more wonderful food, drunk more wine (And I really am not a big drinker, even though I seem to talk about it a lot!) and socialized more than when I'm home in San Diego. Now this will even out a bit as the “novelty” of my being here wears off and I get back to my routine of school, homework, studying, cooking my dinner, watching my Italian soap operas, and going to sleep at a reasonable hour, but, for now, I am relishing the excitement of being in Assisi once again. Each day is an adventure; each day brings something unexpected, and with each day, my Italian gets just a bit better. I love this language; I love hearing it, understanding it, and speaking it and with the support I receive, I am encouraged to keep on, even though it is difficult and sometimes very frustrating.

What has also made Assisi so special for me are the friendships I have here and the people I seem to meet almost daily and without planning. Perhaps because I am trying to “seize every moment” and live each day to the fullest, I feel a vibrancy and intensity here that I don't feel at home, even though my core beliefs about how I want to live my life remain the same wherever I am.

The medieval festival of Calendimaggio starts this coming Thursday, May 3^rd, and when the opening festivities begin at 3:00 pm, the stands will be full of people shouting “Sotto” and “Sopra”, for the lower and upper parts of the city that are in competition for three days. As I live in “Sotto”, I will wave the red flag and shout and clap for my “team” and hope that we win, unlike last year when Sopra was victorious. There is a air of expectation in the city and one can hear the pounding of hammers as each team builds its floats and scenery in secret. The month of May is a wonderful time to be in Assisi and explore Umbria. This year, it rained almost the entire month of April so everything is green and the flowers are blooming all over the city.

And as it's almost 8:00 pm, I must go now and meet my friend, Janet for a walk to the Piazza Commune and a gelato. The big decision will be which flavor to enjoy tonight...