Wednesday, November 30, 2011

When One Door Closes...

Il 30 novembre
Assisi

The suitcases are packed, the food is gone, the apartment is clean; I sense the nearness of my departure...feels almost like being in “no man's land”... I'm still living "in Italian", but have already started thinking about next week in San Diego and what I will do and the people I will see...and I smile.

It has often been said that when one door closes, another one opens up, and how true that has been for me. When I think about it, though, the door doesn't really close because you never leave the past behind; it's always a part of you-the joys and the sorrows, the achievements and the disappointments...it's what you do with it as you enter that new door that will help you to grow...or not. I physically closed the door to my condo on September 14th and, after 18 very special days in Israel, I opened the door to my Assisi apartment and another adventure, but I brought with me all the memories that continue to shape who I am today.

I am ready to fly home on Sunday and, if truth be told, I am looking forward to it. The door to this phase is closing, but not really; I will take with me everything I've learned from others and about myself. I have caring new friends, I have new accomplishments, I have new memories...I didn't have any of those before I left. This is one of the reasons that travel is my greatest passion; every trip opens new doors; every trip adds to who I am and who I am becoming. We all have the same final destination in life...the journey is how we get there.


      

                

Tuesday, November 29, 2011

When Does a Place Become a Home...

il 29 novembre
Assisi

These last few days in Assisi are busy visiting with friends who I will not see for a few months, packing my suitcases, making sure there is nothing that I still want to buy, and, of course, savoring my last meals out. I am not cooking this week, except for making my coffee in the morning, and am treating myself to the local cuisine prepared by chefs who are far more skilled than I am. I saw Luciana and her daughter, Micol last night, said good-bye to Anne and Pino who are going to Napoli for a couple of days, and will spend some time with Francesco later this morning before he leaves for a week in Parigi. Fausto is in Cancun with his girlfriend and Eleonora is busy moving to a new apartment and may or may not be able to get together for un caffe. I am sitting at the table in my apartment listening to a CD of French and Italian songs that a lovely woman (a new acquaintance) named Francesca made for me after I heard the music while in her shop and commented that I enjoyed it. So for the next couple of days, I will be completely on my own once again, before leaving for Milano and seeing Corinna and her family on the Saturday before I fly home.

I often get lost in my own thoughts; perhaps it's day-dreaming... perhaps it's getting in touch with a part of my soul that lies deep...perhaps it's reliving memories of adventures I've had and people I've loved. It's that private part of me that I can choose to share or not, can laugh at or cry at; that part of me that lets me be if I allow it to, that part of me that is mine alone. And so I've been doing lots of “thinking” these last few days, thanking G-d for my many blessings, and “standing back” if only to get another perspective on how and why I am where I am at this point in my life.

I am old enough to have gained just a bit of wisdom and young enough to enjoy the lessons learned and to profit from what they have taught me. I am looking forward to going home on Sunday, to my apartment in San Diego that is my “safe haven”, to seeing my friends and my family, to those many hugs, and endless hours of talking and sharing. San Diego is my home and the United States is my country and, for this, I am very proud. Whenever and wherever I travel, I am very aware that I am an American, representing my country, and that I want to do this with grace and in good taste. I know there are many who would like to live where I live, but also those who would do me harm if they could because of where I live and who I am.

So what makes a place a home? There is, first of all, citizenship, and then where you feel your “roots” are. It's the place where you can sleep in your own bed, put food in your own refrigerator, and take a walk with your friends who live down the street. It's the place where everything is familiar and you feel secure in knowing just where everything is and how you fit in. I am happy to be going home, but “home” is different for me now; it is better because I return enriched by my time away, but it is also with the knowledge that there is another place that holds an important spot in my heart. I am not Italian nor am I a resident of Assisi, but being here for extended periods of time in the last year has been a gift, much needed and much cherished. It might not be my home, but it has become a familiar and happy place for me; a place that, at least for now, I would not want to leave if I didn't have a plane ticket to come back. It has become a “home” maybe just a little bit...

Monday, November 28, 2011

Thanksgiving in Spoleto...

Il 24 novembre
Assisi

Thanksgiving dawned bright and sunny and, wanting to profit from this beautiful November day, I decided to take the train to Spoleto and have my Thanksgiving meal there. I had originally planned to go to a restaurant in Assisi for a “turkey lunch”, but opted, instead, for an out-of-town adventure. Tacchino is not a popular holiday meal here at any time of year, (although a turkey can be ordered at the butcher shop), so roasting a turkey with stuffing is not on the Italian cook's “to do” list. I have purchased breaded thinly sliced turkey breasts that needed just a few minutes of cooking in the oven or on the stove with some oil which were delicious, but will wait until I get home to make my own turkey for a belated holiday celebration.

Spoleto is another one of those marvelous hillside towns in Umbria, first established between the 11th and 10th centuries a.C. (avanti Cristo B.C.) Taken over by the Romans whose presence can be seen in the ruins of an amphitheater (l'anfiteatro), theater, bridge, arch, temple, and home, it went the way of many of its neighbors, invaded by barbarian armies and later controlled by whatever country happened to be in power. Besides the “locals” who live here now, it is home to a vast assortment of churches, built anywhere from the 12th to the 18th centuries, plus high-end boutiques, shops, and charming restaurants nestled within the walls and buildings left from centuries past.

The train station is about a 20 minute walk from the old city so I was able to enjoy some of modern Spoleto on my way up the hill. Lovely tree-lined streets, stately homes, lots of apartments, markets, and the usual traffic of a busy Umbrian town made for an enjoyable jaunt in the sunshine. Arriving at the Corso G. Garibaldi, I started my climb, stopping at a fornaio to buy some bread for dinner back in Assisi. The day was meant to be pleasurable and low-key so I was in no hurry nor did I feel the need to make this a sight-seeing expedition. Seeing some of the Roman ruins and visiting la Chiesa di San Domenico (XIII-XIV century) put me right “on schedule” for lunch which I enjoyed at the Osteria del Trivio., located on a small side-street. Turkey was not on the menu so I ordered lamb chops and a glass of red wine. Intrigued by the interior of the restaurant and wanting to learn something about it, I was about to ask the owner when my lunch arrived.

The lamb chops were cooked to perfection and delicious sprinkled with some lemon juice. Just when I finished, the owner sat down across from me and started talking to a young Italian couple at the next table who were traveling in Umbria. He looked at me and mentioned that I was eating the chops with my fingers (the only way to get at the bone), something that, I suppose, Italians don't do. He asked me how I enjoyed the chops and I told him, quite honestly, that they were delicious, although a bit fatty. He looked at me and replied that they were lamb chops and supposed to be fatty, (I've loosely translated what he said), but quickly told his wife to bring me a complimentary dessert. He asked me why I hadn't ordered something more traditional and “Umbrian” and I told him it was Thanksgiving and I wanted meat...and so began my conversation with this talkative and funny man, whose name I never did get, but who I promised a return visit next spring. We talked about all sorts of things, but when I asked him what he thought of the new prime minister, he quickly replied with a shrug that he didn't discuss politics. I asked the couple at the next table if there was renewed hope in Italy now that Berlusconi was gone. They laughed and said there was always “la speranza” in Italia; the question, now, is how the multitude of problems facing this country can be solved in a way that benefits its citizens.

The five of us spoke for quite some time; I took some pictures of the owners and their daughter, and was asked for my blog address by the couple sitting next to me. When they read this, I want them to know how much I enjoyed meeting and talking with them; it was a great day made that way by the people I met. Grazie.


         
And just so I don't forget, dessert was homemade using family recipes-a slice of cake and several pieces of biscotti, both of which are definitely worth a trip back for.

Local Fun...

Il 23 novembre
Assisi

These last few days I have spent a lot of time with my friend, Anne Robichard, who has lived in Umbria with her Italian husband, Pino, since the 1970's and knows just about everything that is going on in Assisi and in the area. Not only is she an extremely knowledgeable tour guide, but also a fabulous cook who will be in the USA this winter lecturing and giving cooking classes. (Check out her website for the schedule of her cooking classes plus learn more about her many talents. Http://annesitaly.com and click on the link for cooking.)

On Sunday night, along with my charming friend, Francesco, with whom I am having lots of entertaining and informative conversations that are greatly helping my Italian, we went to Tordandrea, a few kilometers away for a Sapore dal Autunno (taste of autumn.) This was a local event held in a hall, not something that tourists would know about, and a bit of a fundraiser for the community. Just being amongst people who live in the area and doing something “ordinary” with friends who live here was another one of those experiences that I've been privileged to have this fall...and the bruschetta and pasta were also good.

Monday morning Anne and I went looking at apartments for sale in Assisi which was a lot of fun, again doing something “ordinary”, and then out for lunch at Osteria Pozzo della Mensa. This restaurant, which has a terraced garden and wine cellar, serves dishes using traditional rural recipes, as well as more modern cuisine. Medieval arches and roman columns carved out of the pink limestone of Assisi make the interior an inviting and unique place to dine; another spot for a delicious meal. www.osteriapozzodellamensa.net

Tuesday morning we went to Bastia, a neighboring town, as Anne wanted to go to one of the fruit/vegetable markets where she shops. I bought some juicy and sweet apples that I've been enjoying for the last few days and regret that I only have more more left. After that we went to Santa Maria Degli Angeli and a stop at the cheese market where I discovered freshly made ricotta cheese-plain, with walnuts, and with herbs that truly melted in my mouth and was my staple food for a couple of days. (I have been thoroughly spoiled now and will no longer be able to buy mass produced ricotta cheese back home.) Then it was time for lunch (yes, another meal) and we ate at the Trattoria Hotel da Elide, in business since 1960, and frequented by the locals, especially business men and women eating there at lunchtime. I ordered grilled sliced eggplant, layered with ricotta cheese, to begin with, and then Noccioletti al radicchio e caprino, a pasta dish that was so tasty and plentiful I had to take home a “doggie-bag”... Now, this is definitely something that Italians don't do as Anne explained to me; eating left-over pasta heated up in the microwave...for shame! I had not regrets, however, as my dinner was just as good as my lunch...and I didn't have to cook.   www.assisihoteldaelide.com

Saturday, November 19, 2011

Mia Mamma...

Il 19 novembre
Assisi

Two weeks ago marked the two year anniversary of my mother's death. As this blog is about my travels, I chose not to mention the day-Nov. 4th, but just wrote about mom in my private journal. Sitting at the table in my Assisi apartment this morning and drinking my very strong caffe, I started thinking about my parents and how losing both of them (my father passed away 21 years ago) changed my life. It doesn't matter how old you are when you lose a parent; it is a loss that stays with you and that you learn to live with. When I was fifteen, mom and dad made their first trip to Europe. I smile as I think about their departure; I can see them so vividly now as they left the house, full of excitement and anticipation. Travel was a lot different in those days; not only were the flights longer, but the manner of dress was markedly different from today. My father was dressed in a business suit and my mother had bought a tweed mohair wool suit with a light green satin blouse that blended with the colors of her outfit. She wore high heels, a hat, and gloves, and, because my parents were very good-looking people, they made quite the striking couple. I am much older now than my mother was when she had her first European adventure, and often when I get dressed before a flight-jeans, a t-shirt, and anything else that speaks of comfort, I see mom and dad in their formal attire and their youth and I am happy at the memory...and maybe feel like I should change my clothes.

My mother was my best friend, my greatest supporter, my soul-mate, and when she died, I was lost. There were days when I didn't know how I would be able to live without her and the grief of that first year was an abyss into which I had fallen. I came to Italy to escape the pain and the memories, knowing that in order to heal, I needed to go far away and begin again. I chose Italy because I wanted to learn Italian and, having the good fortune of meeting the Tonti family through a former work colleague, Umbria (and Assisi) became a safe starting-point. When I initially came here for three months last fall, I hadn't planned on return trips. I didn't know then how much the kindness and support of the people I was to meet would be a magnet pulling me back; I only knew that I needed to come.

Communicating in a foreign language, at least in the beginning, is a humbling experience. Finding the words to express myself, especially when first meeting people, has forced me to draw upon all my strengths so that I am understood as just the person I am. There is no hiding behind past professional success, there are no lofty intellectual conversations, no verbal repartee (which I love), and the only humor comes from laughing at my mistakes. There was a time when I was hesitant to speak, afraid that my lack of perfection in mastering the Italian language after a few months would reflect negatively on me...but that was the past and the people here, with their patience, encouragement, and friendship have helped me to grow.

My grammatical skills are at a beginning advanced level, my oral comprehension has markedly improved, my spoken Italian, although still needing much practice and continually an area of struggle for me, is getting better and I am comfortable using the language wherever and with whomever I am. I have made new friends here in Assisi and, just yesterday, I spent two hours in conversation, most of it in Italian for me, and a little in English for him.

After two years of living without mom, I have started to find peace once again. Like anything difficult, it is a process and there are still days when my heart is heavy and missing her envelops me. During those times, I just let my emotions flow and take me wherever I need to go and, when I smile again, it is with joy at the memory and the blessing of having had an extraordinary relationship with my mother.

I believe in the energy of the universe, in the synchronicity of life, in my destiny, and that I am where I should be in this remarkable life of mine. My mother knew of my passion for travel, of my love of adventure, of my delight in planning my next trip. I am living that passion and what I have learned for sure is that the richness of life, for me, is the connection I have with the people I meet. I have written much about food because I love to eat, but eating in a trattoria, where I know the owner or I am with friends, is what makes the memory. Chatting with people in a mercato where I am now a familiar face makes buying formaggio or mele more than just a trip to the market. Last night I shared a laugh with a woman when I went to buy some fruit. I heard her mention Berlusconi to the owner of the market and I asked her what she thought of the current political situation and where was the former prime minister living now. She laughed and basically said that his being out of office was all that mattered (Arrivederci Silvio!) and that now there was hope for positive change in this country. We talked a little about Monti and the problems in Italy and I left the market, not only with a small bag of groceries, but with a memory of something shared.

I think of life as a train ride; I can take the express which doesn't stop, or the local with its many twists and turns. It's the latter train that I have always chosen, at least as long as I can remember. It's all of those stops that make up the memories; yes, sometimes the delays are frustrating, but what you make of them is what makes the story...another person, another conversation, another connection, even if brief...that's where the important memory is.

So, I dedicate this entry to my parents...to my father who was the impetus behind my first adventure...and to my mother, who worried every time I got on a plane and was happiest when I was back home, but, who never stopped cheering for me along the way.

Tuesday, November 15, 2011

When a Friend Comes to Visit...


Il 15 novembre
Assisi

The sun is shining, the air is chilled and crisp; layers of fog covered the valley this morning, but all that remains is a light haze. Just about everyone is wearing a scarf,men and women alike, and my own collection of these wonderful accessories has grown considerably since I started coming to Italy. (There was even a segment on the news last night about wearing scarves and people were asked how they liked to wear them, as there are many options to scarf wearing.) There are scarves for every season and I am reaching that point of having to decide which one to wear when I get dressed in the morning. I came here in October with a couple of light scarves that I had purchased on a prior trip, but I am going home with heavier suitcases as my winter wardrobe, and not just with more scarves, has increased considerably since last week.

My lovely friend, Janine, arrived here from France on Wednesday evening and after taking her to see la Basilica di San Francesco on Thursday morning (a five minute walk from my apartment), I continued my role of tour guide as we strolled uphill to the Piazza Commune. Although I am not a resident of Assisi, I don't consider myself a tourist here; I never take for granted the beauty and magic of where I am, but it has become a part of my everyday world and I live and breathe it daily. I came here to study and absorb the culture and rarely went into the shops, except for some browsing, as I didn't think I needed to buy anything; this all changed with Janine's arrival, as I now have a “personal shopper.”

Assisi is certainly not a “shopper's paradise”, but there are some lovely boutiques here, in addition to the many stores that sell the usual tourist trinkets. I COLORI DEL TEMPO is a privately-owned, charming shop with an eclectic collection of clothing and accessories primarily for the younger woman, but with much to delight those of us at a “certain age.” Janine and I were left to ourselves to pick out and try on and, with her encouragement, I left with a large bag of unplanned and terrific purchases. The best part was that I was able to find clothing made completely in Italia which is becoming more and more difficult as this country, like so many, is manufacturing heavily in Asia. icolorideltempo@yahoo.it

And if jewelry is on your list of “must buy when I visit Assisi”, visit Assisi Jewels (in business since 1973) to find that delightful bauble to add just the right touch to whatever you're wearing.  I bought a terrific Tedora charm bracelet there and Fausto very patiently helped me put it together. He's got lots of creative ideas and loves what he does...a real pleasure. www.assisijewels.com

Janine and I took the train to Firenze on Saturday morning. Although it is difficult to get to many of the small, quaint towns in Umbria without a car, it's easy enough to get on a train www.trenitalia.com for a visit to any of the larger cities and, as Firenze is less than two and a half hours away, we decided to go for the day. It was colder than in Assisi and I was surprised at the number of tourists still visiting, as November is definitely not tourist season in Italy, but we still had a good time walking about. We hadn't planned on any major sightseeing as we had each spent a bit of time in this city of art and history, but the train ride was an opportunity to see some of the countryside and the day was one those “spur of the moment” adventures. The best part of the trip was visiting with my friends, Francesca and Paolo, who own a B n' B not far from the train station...and I did buy a leather handbag...

I had the pleasure of taking la mia amica to a couple of my favorite restaurants in Assisi; every tour guide needs to know the great places to eat. There are, actually, more than two on my list, depending upon what I'm in the mood for, but the food is so good at TRATTORIA degli UMBRI that we ate there three times. Owned by Andrea and Roberta, who just happen to be my landlords, everything served in this charming eatery is fresh and homemade with just the right amount of subtle flavoring. Andrea will greet you at the door and show you to your table while Roberta, along with another chef, is in the kitchen preparing culinary treats for every palate. When we ate lunch there on Sunday, every table was filled and people were being turned away. If the weather is warm, a table outside is the perfect spot to eat as the trattoria is located on the Piazza del Commune, across from the fountain. trattoriadegliumbri@alice.it

Now that Janine has left, I'm on my own for my remaining two weeks here...time to get back to studying and cooking at home....well, maybe a few meals until my cupboard is bare...

Living in Assisi and having a good friend come to visit...it doesn't get much better than that... another special memory to add to my ever increasing list...



Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Assisi...My Aussie Friends...L'Accademia Lingua Italiana

Il 8 novembre
Assisi

It's a beautiful spring-like day in Assisi, a far cry from yesterday's gray clouds and drizzle. It's amazing what a difference the weather can make in the way one feels. Although I enjoy the “gloomy” sky because it makes being in my apartment here that much cozier and it's great for reading writing, studying, and watching Italian TV, I feel much more energetic and “smiley” inside when the sun is shining. Assisi is a beautiful city, whatever the weather, but there is a clear change in the air here and in the actual feel of the place when the sun shines.

Saying “good-bye” to Margie and Joan at the Roma Termini on Saturday morning (Patricia was on an earlier train) left me feeling a bit lonely. While they were on their way to France and I was coming back here to a place I have come to love, it was a bitter-sweet parting for me. Spending four weeks in class with them and then another six days in Roma made for very special memories. We learned together, laughed together, ate and drank together, and looked after one another. Their friendship, kindness, love of travel and adventure, and Margie's sense of humor (she called me “la principessa”) aren't qualities found in everyone you meet and I am enriched for having shared a bit of my life with them.

I went to school yesterday to find out that there are no other students at the advanced level so there is no class for me to attend. Although I do much better in a structured learning environment when I have responsibilities and homework, having some time off is a lovely thought. Tomorrow, my friend, Janine, who lives in France, will be coming for a visit. We'll have five days together and, as she has never been to Assisi, it will be a joy to take her to my favorite spots. I have done the laundry, cleaned the apartment, and gone grocery shopping so all is in readiness for her arrival! She is also very computer savvy so if we have time, we'll go to my school, make use of the internet connection there, and get some more photos posted on my blog.

I'll have less that three weeks left in Italy after Janine leaves and I plan to use that time to study Italian “da sola” at l'Accademia. There is a beginning class going on now, too easy for me to audit, but there are empty classrooms for me to use and teachers around if I have a question. The school has been a wonderful place of learning, friendship, support, and encouragement. The three teachers I've had (Carla, Eleonora G., Eleonora) are all terrific and, not only were they my professoresse, but they have been friends as well. The school is small so you have an opportunity to meet students in the other classes and share the camaraderie and challenge of learning a new language. Angelo and Gaia Chichiu (father and daughter), both learned linguists, established the school in 1993 and are continually working to enrich the curriculum which they designed. There are three level workbooks with CD's plus additional supportive materials and my bookcases here and in San Diego are looking like an Italian language school. Lorenzo, with a warm and wonderful smile, runs the office and is always ready to help you should a problem arise. I know that I can always count on him to come to my rescue when I need him...which happened last year when my credit card number was compromised in the states shortly after I arrived here. If it wasn't for Lorenzo...well, lucky for me there is a Lorenzo!

Il Volo...


Il 4 novembre
Roma

Today's objective was to do some shopping; first on the street recommended to us last night, and then I wanted to browse the shop windows on the Via Veneto, home to exclusive boutiques, five star hotels, and euros galore.

Although I tried on this and that, it wasn't a successful purchase day for me, but having bought books at Feltrinelli (terrific chain of bookstores in Italy) and t-shirts at Benetton on Thursday, I wasn't disappointed. (I also have my “Italia” sweatshirt bought from a street vendor earlier in the week.) Margie did well and I enjoyed being her “personal shopper” bringing clothes to and from the dressing room.

A morning of shopping, followed by strolling on the Via Veneto, calls for a hearty lunch and we made our way back to the Trevi Fountain and found a “local eatery” on one of the side streets. We started with bruschetta, topped with olive oil and chopped tomatoes, and then each of us had il vitello marsala; the veal was tender and wonderfully flavored and the ristorante welcoming and full of charm. Ristorante Sora Lucia (no website)

Our last afternoon in Roma and we considered ourselves very lucky because the weather was mild and sunny throughout the week, in spite of a forecast for rain. As we had no set agenda for the rest of the day, it was one of those “let's check out this street” and “this map makes no sense” finales. Without our planning it, we ended up back at the Spanish Steps (great view of the city) and then la Pizza del Popolo. Having already been there, we knew that there was going to be a concert that night in celebration of the 150th anniversary of the unification of Italy. What we didn't expect is that we would hear the orchestra rehearsing; a treat in itself. And then, for me, a definite highlight, as I recognized three familiar singers on stage -il Volo. I discovered this group last year and immediately fell in love. The three ragazzi (yes, they are all teenagers) met a couple of years ago when each was performing at the music festival in San Remo. Someone suggested putting the three of them together and the rest is musical history. The beauty of their voices,individual and combined, often brings me to tears and seeing them in person, if only for 15 minutes of a sound check and one song, was magical. Check them out on U-Tube and you'll be in for a treat.
As we made our way to la Piazza Venezia and a fermata (bus stop), we stopped for a Happy Hour dinner at a local eatery. Happy Hour's are very popular in the cities here and we filled ourselves with lots of tasty appetizers and I had my final Roman Spritz-the best one yet!


Arrivederci Roma...Grazie...

Galleria Borghese...Bioparco di Roma...Piazza del Popolo...and Pizza

Il 3 novembre
Roma

The Villa Borghese was built about 1613 as a private residence for the Borghese family and is, indeed, an architectural and artistic delight. Filled with sculptures and paintings, la Galleria Borghese, as it is now known, is a showcase for hundreds of pieces of art and it was here that we had a 9:00 am appointment on a sunny Thursday morning. Works done by 15th and 16th century painters filled the walls of this vast building and everywhere you looked, there was a Bernini sculpture (He's a favorite of mine.) or a Caravaggio painting, among others. The villa is located in what was once the depths of the countryside, but is now a beautiful park where one can rent bicycles, walk the many paths, or even get lost for a bit in the vast expanse of greenery and trees.

Leaving the villa, Margie and I continued on our own with a visit to the zoo (Bioparco Di Roma), which was also in the park. I have always loved going to the zoo; I never cease to be amazed by “wild” animals and often wonder just what goes on in their minds. The maternal instinct of females is fascinating to behold as mothers always know who their “kids” are and just what they need. The mandrills (I mandrilli) put on quite a show for us as we were able to view them close-up through large windows. A lot of what they did was “personal” and the resemblance to human behavior was worth the “price of admission.”

After that we walked for quite a while as there were no Metro stations in the immediate area and the buses were few. The Metro system in Roma, although in dire need of the overhaul which is currently underway, is an efficient way to get around. The difference between this system and the one in Milano, as an example, is that it is much smaller, and, except for a couple of stations, it runs primarily around the city, rather than through it; so getting around, although easy from my perspective, can take a bit of planning if one doesn't like to walk a lot. Of course, there are many escorted tours and the double-decked open-air buses that travel all over the city for a daily fee that includes getting on and off wherever one chooses.

Lunch was outdoors on a busy street near La Piazza del Popolo and then, of course, we had to walk off the pasta and risotto. There is so much to explore in Roma and everyday brought something new and, even when we saw the same sights again, there was still something not noticed the first time. Walking down the Via del Corso and browsing in shop windows took the latter part of the afternoon which was perfect because it was getting onto dusk when we got to the Pantheon. Built originally as a Greek temple and now a church, it is clearly a mixture of pagan and Christian artistic perspective. Then it was time for an aperitivo and I had a Spritz, my drink of choice, although it was a pricey 10 euros; a bit of a shock since I usually pay anywhere from 3.50 to 5 euros, but the people-watching was a show it itself and the drink was up to par.

Dinner followed at the Ristorante S. Anna where we had a terrific pizza (once again) with fresh basil and mozzarella;it was early for dinner so the waiter (il cameriere) and waitress (la cameriera) both had time to talk with us and also recommend some areas for shopping (our Friday plan.)



Monday, November 7, 2011

Trastevere...

Il 2 novembre
Roma

After breakfast Margie and I went to Trastevere, an old and very quaint area in Roma, away from the rushing crowds of the popular tourist attractions. Walking past the imposing Castel Sant'Angelo and along the river, we managed to get in some “shopping” at the outdoor stalls along the way. Trastevere is one of those neighborhoods that take you back in time and when we got there, the “quiet” reminded me that something had changed in Roma since I was last here. Although there are still lots of people in the streets, lots of people talking on cell phones, and lots of young people smoking, the cacophony of blasting car horns is gone. Yes, there are still horns blowing, but not with the consistency and noise that I remember. Although I haven't checked, my guess is that an ordinance was passed barring the indiscriminate use of “horn honking.” At any rate, whatever the reason, the “relative calm” (and I mean “relative calm”) makes it a lot more enjoyable to explore the city.

We wandered around the neighborhoods until we found a terrific place for lunch-pasta in a light sauce lightly flavored with lemon rind, and then later, it was time for coffee and sharing a piece of ricotta cheese cake. As we weren't far from the Jewish Quarter, we crossed over the river to inquire about the daily evening service at the synagogue. So, a day after sitting in Basilica S. Pietro, I was praying in an Orthodox synagogue, in the company of local residents. I had hoped to be able to follow along, but the Hebrew was chanted so quickly that I couldn't keep up so I just sat/stood and listened; loving the fact that I was far from home and yet, being in a synagogue, I was home.

After the service we had another scrumptious Kosher meal-a pizza with fresh basil and buffalo mozzarella, and white wine. I had a delightful conversation with the waiter after I told him that I wanted to mention the restaurant in my blog. He then told me how expensive it is to live in Roma and that next year he's planning to go to New Jersey (where he has family) to look for a job...

Ristorante BA” GHETTO MILKY www.kosherinrome.com

La Comunita'Ebraica di Roma...

Il 1 novembre
Roma

Joan and Patricia left this morning to spend a couple of days in Pompeii and Margie and I set out after breakfast for la Comunita' Ebraica di Roma (the Jewish Quarter); it is here where one can walk the streets of what was once the Jewish Ghetto, visit Rome's major synagogue + the Jewish Museum, and pause in reflection and prayer at the spot of the Jewish deportation on October 16,1943. When I came here a year ago, I wasn't able to enter the synagogue because it was a Jewish holiday so I was very happy to finally walk inside this beautiful house of worship. Taking a guided tour taught me a lot about the Jewish community in Roma which has actually been in existence, although not in this exact location, for over 2,000 years. The earliest Jewish settlement in Italy was on the banks of the Tiber River and it was, actually, one of the earliest communities in Europe. Knowing that a deportation had taken place next to the synagogue, built between 1901 and 1904, I asked our guide why it had remained intact and wasn't destroyed during the war. I learned that the Pope had made an arrangement with the German government not to bomb the city as an attack might have destroyed the Vatican, as well as other churches.

After our morning in the synagogue and its accompanying museum, it was time for lunch in one of several kosher restaurants in the Jewish Quarter. Margie and I shared an appetizer of assorted fried vegetables {the carciofo-(artichoke) was delicious} and then ravioli filled with ricotta cheese and in a light sauce flavored with orange rind. Complete with white wine and crunchy bread (Every restaurant I ate in had great bread...and I'm a bread person!), it was a perfect meal...and a very special morning. www.ilgiardinoromano.it

After lunch, we decided to walk along the river and take advantage of the beautiful spring-like weather, letting our feet lead the way. We took one of the several bridges that cross il Fiume Tevere (Tiber River) and, after many twists and turns, we arrived at la Basilica S. Pietro at sunset. During the day, the Vatican is filled with crowds, but at this later hour, we were able to walk into the basilica without a wait and sit in the pews while a service was underway. Leaving the basilica when the first stars were coming out, I reminded myself that only a few days prior, I had seen the Pope in Assisi and now here I was in Roma looking up at the windows of the papal apartment...

il Colosseo...

Il 31 ottobre
Roma

If you like to walk and enjoy using a map to figure out where you are and where you're going, then Roma, like most cities, is very easy to navigate. Although we used public transportation at night (bus and Metro), most of our daytime traveling was on foot, which is how I like to see a city. Although I always have a map with me, I usually don't mind getting a little lost, provided that it's light outside and I feel safe in the neighborhood I find myself in. A visit to Roma usually begins with il Colosseo and the surrounding Palatine Hill and Roman Forum. I had been to the Colosseum before, which was a good thing because the line to get inside this arena of gladiator fights and bloodthirsty animals wound partially around the walls and it would have been well over an hour just to enter, only to be part of a crowd of hundreds (many hundreds) climbing up and around the ruins. So Patricia (an Australian friend of my classmate, Joan) and I looked in from outside the gates and there was still plenty to see; I could even hear the roar of lions. We explored the area and I especially enjoyed reading some Roman history posted outside the Forum. The Roman Emperors liked to outdo one another (Has politics really changed much in all these years?) and the Forum is actually a group of individual forums, one next to the other, as successive emperors added on to the original spot; each one wanting bigger and better.

We found a lovely spot for lunch and ate outdoors in the Roman sunshine (bruschetta, salata, vino). Then it was in and out of some shops and lots of walking on charming side streets until we had to meet up with Margie and Joan at the Piazza della Repubblica. In front of a theater on the piazza were lots of people on either side of a red carpet and we found out that a couple of the movie stars from the Twilight Saga were due to make an appearance. No, I did not join the crowd of Hollywood fans, but chose to have an aperitivo with my friends at the bar across the way. Based on the shrieks we heard, we were aware of the comings and goings and were content to stay where we were and talk about the where and when of our next meal.

I suggested going first to la Fontana del Tritone (Trevi Fountain) as it wasn't too far to walk and I needed to throw in my three coins...which I did after navigating through the masses of people who were sitting around the fountain. I was tempted to take off my shoes and walk in (like in the movies), but the moment just wasn't right...I needed to be wearing a black evening dress and have Marcello waiting across the way. Dinner was wine and pizza for me (the first of many I ate in Roma) and then it was back to the Casa Tabor. A good day was had by all.
   
                             
   
 






Benvenuti a Roma...

Il 30 ottobre
Roma

After a couple of train rides, we arrived at the Roma Termini, happy to be in this historic and vibrant capital city. Being four adventurous women, we decided to take the Metro to the station closest to where we would be staying and then get a taxi from there. I was in Roma last year for a few days, but never took the Metro and was quite unprepared for the “hordes” of people! Luckily, I had only a carry-on suitcase; Margie, on the other hand, did not and was not a “very happy camper.” In any event, we arrived at our Metro stop, only to find ourselves on a busy street, in the dark, with not a taxi in sight! Our “albergo” was an inn located on two floors of a convent not far from the Vatican. (This place had been recommended to my Australian friends and turned out to be lovely once we got there and found the near-by bus stop the next morning.) The “Casa di Accoglienza TABOR” is on a side street and very easy to get to if you know where you're going, but since we didn't and the many people we asked didn't either, we experienced some moments of frustration. One young girl who I spoke with even called her father on her cell phone (He didn't know either.), but, as she was “certain” of the direction in which we needed to go, we followed her, only to find out later that we were going the wrong way! Things do have a way of working out, however, as we were, at least, near a ristorante. We ate, albeit the Pasta Carbonara was very heavy and no one really liked it, and called a taxi when we had finished. Arriving at the “Casa”, we were shown to our rooms and all went to sleep. The lesson to be learned...If you're not really sure where you're going, just take a taxi from the Roma Termini...