In the Presence of the Pope...

Il 27 ottobre

Assisi

In October, 1986, at the invitation of Pope John Paul II, representatives of religious communities came to Assisi from all over the world for a day of prayer and the sharing of ideas about how to achieve world peace. The Pope said that “peace needs to be built on justice, truth, freedom, and love” and, in furthering the tradition set 25 years ago, Pope Benedict XVI invited religious leaders (believers and non-believers) from near and far to come to Assisi for a day of dialogue and prayer.

Margie, Joan, and I had the good fortune, with the help of the director of our school, to obtain passes to attend the forum held at la Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli, a large and very beautiful church in, what I think of as modern-day Assisi, Santa Maria degli Angeli, a 45 minute walk from the old city. We arrived at the church, surrounded by growing crowds of people, TV reporters, and a countless number of police and plain-clothes security. {I was, actually, interviewed by a journalist (in Italian), but don't know if my 30 seconds ever made the evening news!}

How to describe what it was like to be in this sanctuary, surrounded by the world's religious leaders; I don't think words can give justice to my emotions. When the Pope entered the building, he was greeted with applause by all in attendance. After he took his seat, each of the delegation leaders spoke about harmony, justice, truth, and love, and how to achieve peace in our world of terrorism and uncertainty. The Pope was the last person to speak and his message was clear...Basta...There's been enough killing...no more.

Later in the afternoon, the Pope and members of the various delegations arrived at the Lower Basilica di San Francesco for a celebration of peace. There were a number of musical performances and hundreds of people gathered around to take it all in. I watched all of this on a giant screen set up in front of the Upper Basilica and, when the celebration was over, was able to get a glimpse, looking over the wall, of the Pope as he got into his van and waved good-bye.

Now, I am not Catholic and, to be perfectly honest, am not up-to-date on all the ideas and teachings of Pope Benedict XVI. (I'm guessing there are many that I wouldn't agree with.) That being said, to be in the presence of a man so esteemed and beloved by millions, a man whose humility was clearly evident, a man whose sanctity and love of G-d have been the cornerstone of his life, was one of those moments in my life that will stay with me for quite some time.

I will carry yesterday's message with me...peace can be achieved through mutual respect, justice, harmony... and laying down the sword.

A Lovely and Enlightening Weekend...

Il 22 ottobre ed il 23 ottobre

Assisi

Saturday dawned bright and sunny and, with my two new Australian friends, Margie and Joan, I caught the bus and arrived at the train station, in plenty of time for our trip to Arezzo. While waiting for the train to arrive, who did I see (and what a terrific surprise), but Corinna Tonti and her father, Paolo. The Tonti's are good friends of mine; rather like my Italian family, and Corinna was headed back home to Milano. I have had the good fortune to stay in two of the three properties owned by the Tonti family and, last fall, lived in a private apartment in the Villa Rosy, a fabulous home located a few minutes from Assisi by car and a 45 minute walk if one is going on foot. The Villa Rosy is surrounded by 2,000 olive trees and, last year, I helped gather olives and even went to the mill to see where the Tonti olive oil is processed. I learned a lot about olive oil and can say, without hesitation, that this olive oil is the best I have ever had...and I have tasted a lot of olive oil! The Villa Rosy accommodates at least eight people and is a perfect place to stay for a group of friends traveling together or for a family reunion. www.sanpotente.it

The train ride to Arezzo lasted about ninety minutes and took us through the beautiful Umbrian and Tuscan countrysides which are quite different from one another. Arezzo, located southeast of Firenze, is well-known for the magnificent frescoes done by Piero della Francesca, found in the Basilica di San Francesco. The city, one of Toscana's most prosperous, is also a center for goldsmiths, jewelry and antiques. Arezzo is a vibrant place with lots of energy and we had a great day walking around, seeing the sights, shopping, and, or course, having an aperitivo in the Piazza San Francesco. 

Margie and Joan came for lunch on Sunday and, after they left, I finished my homework and took a walk to see an enlightening and moving exhibit entitled Museo della Memoria...Assisi 1943-1944. During World War II, after the pact between Mussolini and Hitler was no longer in effect, the Jews living in northern Italy were in danger of being taken to the concentration camps (and many were taken, as well as a big deportation taking place in Roma prior to these years) as the Germans had control of this part of the country. The Americans were already in southern Italy and, because of this, the danger to the Jewish population there was greatly reduced.

The mayor of Assisi knew that in order to protect his city from being bombed by the Germans, he needed to give the Germans a reason to leave it alone. So, he had hospitals built and Assisi became the refuge for the injured and ill German soldiers and its citizens were, more or less, left alone. Along with the Bishop in Assisi, who, essentially, took it upon himself to help the Jews who were trying to get to the south, these two men were responsible for the hiding of 300 Jews in the various convents and monasteries here during 1943-1944. In addition, the local printer and his son, whose shop was located near la Piazza di Santa Chiara, printed phony documents for those Jews who were in hiding in Assisi. With these papers, those people who wanted to get to the south of Italy were able to do so and escape the horror of the concentration camps. All 300 Jews who were hidden in this city of San Francesco survived the war, thanks to the humanity of many Assisiani.

Once Upon a Pizza...

il 20 ottobre
Assisi

Mushroom pizza and a glass of red wine....a perfect lunch for a rainy Thursday afternoon. With the exception of a day or two during my first week here, my friends and I have gone to the same restaurant everyday after class finishes at 1:30. Why don't we change...well, if you ate the pizza at Il Duomo Pizzeria Ristorante, you would know why we are drawn back there day after day. I have eaten pizza in many restaurants in Italy; this country is, after all, known for its pizza (among many other culinary delights) and, for the most part, I've eaten a lot of good pizza. What makes the pizza at Il Duomo stand out is the crust; paper-thin and flaky and covered with any number of toppings, the pizza is light and always delicious. Margie and I go daily and share a pizza; we've tried just about all of them from today's mushroom pizza to one covered with very finely sliced potatoes the other day. The Francescana is a big favorite here-prosciutto and mushrooms with a thin coating of cheese. All of the pizzas have some cheese, but unless you order the Quattro Fromaggi (4 cheeses), the cheese is light and never too rich or heavy. (Even a "rich" pizza is light by American standards.)

Since we are regular customers, Il Duomo has become a bit like home and we're always welcomed with a warm greeting. The last couple of days, I've been talking with Marino, the owner, who advised me that the best way to start speaking Italian more fluently is to find an Italian man to spend some time with...well...perhaps. Andrea, the young woman who makes the pizza, is from Rumania and most delightful. Yesterday, Margie and I watched her working and, today, she and I spoke about the trials and tribulations of speaking Italian without one's native accent; try as I do, this is a big mountain to climb.

The menu at Il Duomo is varied with lots of primi and secondi piatti; we have gotten used to pizza for lunch, but roast potatoes and agnello sound very tempting...maybe another day.
http://www.assisiduomo.com/

The Joy of Nutella...

Il 17 ottobre

Assisi

Italians begin their day with un caffe or un caffe latte and un dolci; perhaps another caffe and a snack during la pausa, but nothing too much until lunch. Il pranzo is, for many, a big meal, although with the arrival of “fast food” and there is “Italian fast food” (not just McDonald's), I know a lot of people who eat something small and quick for lunch and save their eating for la cena. In any event, it is la prima colazione that I would like to talk about. There are many commercials on TV that advertise various types of cakes and cookies to eat at breakfast; all, undoubtedly, with a substantial amount of sugar, but, certainly, something to “jump-start” the day with a burst of energy. I was particularly taken with a commercial for Nutella-Crema de Spalmare all Nocciole. The ad shows a family of four-il padre, la madre, e due bambini sitting at the breakfast table eating slices of bread topped with Nutella. All four are good-looking and the picture of perfect health and the message is that Nutella for breakfast makes the perfect nutritious way to start the day. Now, I checked the ingredients in this product; the largest component is sugar, followed by hazelnut oil (100% vegetable oil), chocolate, powdered skim milk, and some emulsifiers. For days it bothered me that such an ad existed...what happened to healthy eating of fruit and cereal for breakfast? So, I bought a jar last week and had some this morning on fette biscottate (crackers), instead of my usual butter and marmalade. And now I understand...this spread is great! And Nutella, with its fudge-like consistency and hints of chocolate and hazelnut, certainly has less fat than butter and the sugar...well, I like sugar.

By the way, a spoonful or two of Nutella makes a great snack when I 'm doing my homework and need something to keep me going...Wonder who invented this stuff?

My Life in Assisi...A Three Day Story

Il 14 ottobre

Assisi

I completed two weeks of my Italian course today; I can hardly believe it's the half-way point with only two weeks to go. It's a terrific class; we all get along, we have fun together, and we're all serious about learning Italian. Carla, la nostra professoressa, is a delightful charming woman, very poised, with a beautiful smile, and with lots of stories; the funny ones are about how none of the women in her family cook well and Carla is continually encouraging her mother to read some cookbooks and vary her pasta recipe! This morning we talked about the serious earthquake that hit Umbria in 1997; Carla was in bed as the first quake was during the night. With not enough time to do anything, she stayed where she was and prayed that the very heavy religious painting above her wouldn't fall and cut her in two. I know that, at the time, it was a frightening experience for her, but, hearing the story this morning with Carla's facial expressions and hand gestures, plus her colorful Italian, all of us had a good laugh.

I woke up about six this morning and, as I was wide-awake, I decided to wash the laundry, change the sheets, and sweep the floors of my apartment. Living here is, for me, like anywhere else...there is cleaning to do and there are groceries to buy. The difference is that I have had to figure out how to use an Italian washing machine (lots of dials) and need to hang up the laundry to dry; neither of which is truly a hardship. I love going grocery shopping. There are plenty of small mercados in Assisi, but no big markets, so each day or so, I visit one or two of my favorite places to shop, and buy a bit of this and that. As I love to eat, buying groceries is one of the day's highlights since there are so many things to try. Just yesterday I noticed, next to the yogurt, containers of Panna cotta al caramello (rather like Crème Caramel.) I think I've found the perfect substitute for gelato since it's getting too cold to go out at night for a frozen dessert, but I can certainly eat a Panna cotta a casa...and at only 174 calories per container, I can even have two!

Il 15 ottobre

Assisi

It's a sunny Saturday, although the wind is brisk and cold. Il vento in Umbria, when it wants to, can be “brutto” as it takes you in its grasp and enters every exposed nook and cranny of your body. I came prepared with a warm wool scarf, although I've been gazing at some of the shop windows here and just might have to buy something more to keep me warm.

My friends, Margie and Joan, told me about a wonderful butcher's shop (la marcelleria) a few minutes from the Piazza Commune. Yesterday afternoon, as I had a craving for la carne, I walked over and bought a veal chop. Later on in the evening, I sauteed it briefly in olive oil with a little salt and pepper, and with some left-over pasta, had a wonderful dinner. Unfortunately, the cork in my bottle of Chianti was dry and started to crumble, rather than come out of the bottle so I was “forced” to drink some Peroni with my dinner instead of il vino. This morning I walked over to the market where I had purchased the wine and had the bottle opened without a problem; a good lesson in the need for a quality cork-screw!

Living in Assisi is, for me, living in the “moment”...every new experience is a bit of time out of the ordinary. In a way, it's “life in suspension”...or maybe it's a lesson about turning the ordinary into the extraordinary. Maybe that's what living in the “now” is all about; respecting and loving the moment. Certainly, there are moments we don't “love” because they're not fun, maybe downright unpleasant, but maybe if we looked at the moment differently, changed our perspective, the view just might be different.

Il 16 ottobre

Assisi

It's been a lovely weekend-lots of studying, eating a few good home-cooked meals, reading, relaxing, and the discovery of “Sacchetti Trasparenti Cubetti Ghiaccio” or, in other words, plastic bags divided into sections that just need to be filled with water and frozen; the end product being ice cubes. A wonderful invention for those who need “cubes on the go” or don't have trays in their freezers, these bags are “igienic e pratici” (hygienic and practical) and “proteggono I tuoi cubetti” (protect your cubes)...my life is now one step closer to being complete.

Yesterday afternoon I went to the hairdresser. Needing color and a cut, but not knowing which of the several salons in Assisi I wanted to go to, I walked into one on Thursday and immediately knew that I had found the right place so an appointment was made. Olimpia, a lovely woman who has had this particular salon for the past eight years, understood just what I wanted and, two hours after arriving, I walked out with my hair freshly styled and my hands manicured.

Assisi is, from my vantage point, a city of contrasts. This is, after all, a religious and very spiritual place, but it's also home to many local residents who just happen to live in houses, most of which were built in the 12^th century. The streets are narrow, designed long before the invention of the automobile, but there are plenty of cars here and I am constantly amazed at how drivers navigate the streets when there are tourists galore who often have to stop walking and get close to the buildings so that there's enough room for a car to pass. I wake up in the morning to the ringing of church bells whose majestic sounds resonate throughout the day. The frati and sorelle who come here from all over the world to study, work, and pray walk in the streets just like everyone else-the foreign tour groups, the Italians who come here to spend a day taking in the ambience, the teenagers with piercings and colored hair, the students who, like me, are here to learn the language and experience life in a much simpler way than at home, and the locals who call Assisi their home; I am enriched daily by everything around me.

I watch the news everyday for two reasons: The first is that I want to know what's happening in the world and the second is that listening to Italian TV helps my language skills. That being said, I am well-aware of the demonstrations at home and try to keep up

with what's happening in the USA. This afternoon I saw the coverage of Times Square; this peaceful and lively show of opinion and opposition was in stark constrast to Roma where “la violenza” and “la distruzione” that occurred during “i manifestazioni” were brutal and out-of-control. Seeing the burned cars and broken shop windows was looking at a war zone; one million Euros in damages (and that's not the private property) and for what...violence is an outlet for those who are selfish, irresponsible, and do not respect the law...it is not a means to an end and it's the innocent who pay the biggest price for the recklessness of others.

A Sunday in Spello...

Il 9 ottobre

Spello

Il mio cellulare italiano rang this morning about 9:00 am; it was Margie calling to invite me to join her for an outing to Spello, a charming town slightly southeast of Assisi. An hour later, we were on the bus headed for the station and after a nine minute train trip we arrived. It's an easy 15 minute walk from the train station to the old walled city and, along the way, we stopped to talk with a man who was working in his garden. I'd been to Spello before today, but, like anywhere else, each visit brings something unnoticed before. Sometimes when I go somewhere new, I have the “list” of what I should make sure to see. Other times, I like to go to a new spot without a planned agenda; just walk around, people-watch, and breathe in the air. Of course, in Italy, eating something somewhere is always a consideration. Speaking of food, I was watching the news this evening and there was a segment about the obesity problem in Italy; it seems that 1 out of every 2 people in this country of bountiful and glorious food has a weight problem. La pubblicita on TV runs the gamut, from Activia yogurt to a “breakfast sweet” which is what most Italians begin their day with.

After spending some time in the Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore where there was a mass underway, we meandered along on the winding streets, stopping when something caught our eye. We went into a shop called Candle Light www.candlelight.it where all of the candles are made by hand (completamente realizzate a mano). We watched the owner at work, her vats of warm wax nearby, creating mini sculptures, some very complex and in a multitude of colors.

Passing by a specialty food shop, we were offered some samples that led us inside....and what a treat that was. La Famiglia Antonini, farming in the area for many generations, opened Casa Antonini in 1976. We had the pleasure of meeting Emanuele, one of three siblings who inherited and continued the shop, opened by his father. Attractively packaged cereal, legume, and pasta products, several types of tomato sauce, and even some pastries, everything completely organic, fill the shelves of this store. It was such a pleasure conversing with Emanuele, who was delighted when I took his picture and told him that I wanted to write about his business. Margie and I spent quite a while there and each of us walked out with a bag of goodies. I've already opened my packages of Crosti pizza al rosmarino, wonderful handmade crackers that are delicious by themselves or with cheese, and Rocciatelle, a not-too sweet pastry filled with a fig puree, also handmade. I also purchased two different types of pasta, a wheat grain that used to be eaten by the nobility (maybe some royalty will rub off on me), and a jar of tomato sauce made from tomatoes that come from the Antonini farm. www.casantonini1976.it

                

Checking several restaurants and finding that we needed reservations, we headed back to the station with the continued hope that a welcoming trattoria would magically appear. And so it did...La Locanda del Postiglione where Margie and I shared a half bottle of sparkling white wine, ravioli filled with ricotta cheese, walnuts, and lemon (primo piatto), and grilled lamb (secondo piatto)...an absolutely glorious meal that I can still taste...and will need to have at least one more time. www.locandadelpostiglione.com   

La Pioggia...

Il 7 ottobre

Assisi

The rain arrived today with a vengeance. Although it was a short-lived storm, I managed to get caught while the hail was coming down. Pants and shoes soaked, (my little travel umbrella didn't cover much), I waited a while in a caffe/bar until the rain wasn't quite so heavy and I could get home safely. Having already experienced autumn and early winter in Italy, I know how cold and wet it gets here, with very heavy piercing wind. So, my coat and gloves are now ready and, perhaps, I will buy a larger umbrella.

Margie and Joan, two of my classmates and delightful Australians, are coming for dinner tonight and I'm looking forward to welcoming them in my home. We'll start with a bottle of Prosecco and dinner will be an original pasta creation...farfalle with lots of olive oil, sauteed garlic and cece (chickpeas), topped with slices of grilled chicken breasts. I tried out the recipe last night and was pleased with it; anything with lots of olive oil and garlic is a sure winner.

Tomorrow is Yom Kippur, a day of prayer and reflection. There are no synagogues in Assisi, or anywhere nearby, so I will spend the day at home, quietly.

Assisi and Purpose...

Il 6 ottobre 2011

Assisi

It's 3:00 pm and I'm in my apartment, after four hours of class this morning and lunch in a restaurant with three friends from school. When we are together, we speak in Italian and, after a couple of glasses of sparkling white wine at lunch, my language skills definitely improved. This is the fourth course I've taken at l'Accademia Lingua Italiana Assisi so coming back here to study is familiar and comforting. We got our books this morning and, I will admit, the more I learn, the more difficult it becomes because the expectation is that I remember everything I've learned up until now. As we all know, learning a language is cumulative so there is a tremendous amount of information-vocabulary, grammar, etc. that one must store away and retrieve. I've decided not to “beat myself up” for what I don't know and “pat myself on the back” for how far I've come. I ordered for the four of us at lunch today and even though it was a few words, it felt good to use the language in a natural way.

This has been a week of getting settled...grocery shopping, starting to once again cook for myself, and do my homework assignments every evening. I'm happy in Assisi; it' such a beautiful place and being here gives me a chance to “take a deep breath” and think about the blessings in my life and where I want to go from here.

A good friend of mine sent me an article about finding one's purpose in life. Although I've been privileged to do many things, travel far and wide, and feel the love of family and friends, I know that I am due for a re-evaluation. Where do I want to go from here? When I was a business/life coach, working with many people who experienced frustration professionally and confusion personally, we would often talk about purpose and mission. I found that the “Bucket List” or the “100 Things I Want to Do Before I Die” was a simple exercise that helped people see what they were missing; what they were putting off until later. What I've learned in my life is that “now” is what's important; to be “present”, to take that deep breath and be centered and in the moment....because the moment won't last. So I'm thinking about those things I've done that have given me the most satisfaction, the greatest sense of accomplishment, the greatest joy. Satisfaction, accomplishment, joy...it you feel those things, then your purpose, I think, is being fulfilled. If this blog does anything, I hope it will be a reminder that life is a blessing and that it passes quickly. The adventure is there for each one of us...What colors are you using on your palette?

Back in Assisi Once Again...

Il 3 ottobre 2011

Assisi

Yesterday, after a smooth flight, which was the easiest part of the trip, and three different trains, I arrived back in Assisi around 3:00 pm. Although I had packed a lot smarter this time around, two small suitcases-one for Israel and one for Italy, carrying them up and down the stairs in three train stations left me with sore muscles, and thinking longingly about floating on the Dead Sea...alas. Andrea and Roberta, the charming couple who own the apartment I'm renting, picked me up at the station in Assisi. I also had the pleasure of meeting their two young children who loved the Israeli chocolate bar I had purchased for them at the airport in Tel Aviv; Giovanni said that the cioccolato was buonissimo! Andrea and Roberta, who also own a terrific trattoria next to la Piazza Commune, renovated the apartment themselves and it's just beautiful with a view of the Umbrian valley that seems to go on forever.

It's a good 15 minute (major) uphill walk from my apartment to l'Accademia Lingua Italiana Assisi where I study so I expect to return home in good shape, unless I eat too much pizza, pasta, and gelato which is a strong possibility. This morning, I had a wonderful reunion with my three former teachers (one of whom has become a good friend); I got big hugs and warm welcomes and felt at home and very happy to be back. There are three other women in my class, all about my age, and it's a comfortable blend of personalities and skill levels. Carla, our teacher, announced that speaking any language, but Italian, is not allowed and she will be charging us one Euro for each English word she hears! This is enough of an incentive for me to forget my “mother tongue”, although I still need to be careful because Hebrew words are mixed up with Italian ones and I had to stop myself a couple of times this morning when I used the wrong language!

During our 15 minute “pausa” I bought some groceries and had un caffe e un cornetto at one of the “bars” on the piazza; not taking long for me to resume my “lifestyle” in Assisi. The pizza and birra for lunch also brought me right back to where I “left off” last June..and so my Italian diet resumes...did I say something about returning home in good shape?

Shalom Israel...I will be back...

October 1

Tel Aviv

So there I was on this last day in Israel, sitting on a stool facing the azure-blue Mediterranean, eating tart frozen yogurt laden with fresh mangoes, melon, pineapple, and figs. Certainly, I could not have asked for a better send-off! We had just finished another long walk to the sea (I made sure to wet my arms and legs for yet one more taste.) and it was time for some light refreshment before heading back home. Not just because I was in Tel Aviv with the sound of the crashing waves in my ear, but this was, clearly, the best frozen yogurt I have ever eaten; too bad I just discovered it! Israeli ice cream is also good; well, it can't compare to Italian gelato, but I'll have one of those tomorrow night!

The suitcases are packed; the boarding pass is printed; my flight leaves at 5:00 am tomorrow morning.

Shalom Israel...it has been wonderful.

Ciao Italia...and my adventure continues...

A Perfect Way to End a Perfect Trip...

September 28-29-30

Rosh HaShanah

What better way to spend the Jewish New Year than with special friends in Israel. I was picked up at my hotel on Wednesday morning and driven to Pardes Hana-Karkur, a lovely community with a “small-town” feel located between Tel Aviv and Haifa. The modern highways in Israel make traveling easy and comfortable and road signs are in Hebrew, Arabic, and English. Towns are scattered about on either side of the road; Arab areas are easily recognizable because of the distinguishing minarets next to each mosque. It is from the minaret that there is a call to prayer five times a day; in olden times, this was done by a person... now, there is a recording that is timed to go on automatically. Arab towns that are a part of Israel, receiving the same benefits as any Jewish city, blend in the landscape; those under the control of the Palestinian Authority are bordered by fences topped with barbed wire; this is necessary for the security of Israel and has stopped the attacks on cars so common in the past.

About seven in the evening the family arrived and fourteen of us (a small part of a very large family) sat down at a Rosh HaShanah table recognizable by the apples, honey, bowls of pomegranate seeds, and round Challah that are all symbolic of the holiday. There was a seemingly endless selection of wonderful food (common to festive Jewish celebrations!) and the eating, laughing, and “rapid” Hebrew conversation flowed. Well, the conversation flowed around me as most of it was too fast for me to understand, but I loved being surrounded by the sounds and was able to identify “bits and pieces.”

After breakfast on Thursday we drove to some charming artist towns in the area, walking in and out of galleries and passing by small local synagogues where the familiar holiday prayers could be heard. Whether one is “religiously observant” or not, Rosh HaShanah is a time to be with family and friends and look forward to a new year of peace.

I have been in Ramat Gan (a suburb of and adjacent to Tel Aviv) since Thursday evening. I was told that Tel Aviv is a “city that never sleeps” and that is an apt description of this vibrant and energetic place so full of vitality and life. Yesterday morning we walked to the sea through a marvelous park many miles long. Cyclists, joggers, walkers, the old and the very young were out in abundance. Along the path are outdoor work-out areas and adults and kids alike were exercising; one doesn't need to belong to a health club to stay fit in Tel Aviv!

The boardwalk was “mobbed” with people...lots and lots of kids, lots of laughter, lots of conversation. As I ate breakfast facing the Mediterranean and looking at the passers-by, I was reminded how almost everyone I saw, men and women alike, had or would be serving in the military in defense of their country. Military service is compulsive here and, except for the ultra-religious, all serve in different capacities wherever the need is, although there is an opportunity at the outset for a young man or woman to state a preference as to the type of work he or she would want to do.

Back home we relaxed in the afternoon and, later, drove to Jaffa to walk along the sea and eat a fish dinner. This has been a special Rosh HaShanah for me...unforgettable for sure!