A San Diego Thanksgiving...

San Diego, California

il 24 novembre, 2012
 

There's a song with the words “there's no place like home for the holidays” and this was certainly true for me this year. As much as I love to travel and as much as I enjoyed my last two Thanksgiving celebrations in Assisi, there's something to be said for the aroma of turkey and the fixings coming from one's own oven. And then there's the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade, a landmark event once every year on the fourth Thursday in November; memories of growing up in New York filled my head as I watched the spectacle on TV while my pumpkin chocolate chip bread was baking in the oven... it was one of those “feel-good” mornings.
 

I actually indulged in two Thanksgiving celebrations this year; the first was on the Friday evening before the holiday when six of us ate the turkey, sweet potatoes, string beans, salad, cranberry sauce, and pumpkin cheese cake that came from my kitchen and the second this past Thursday with friends, Linda and Larry...This time it was Linda who roasted the turkey and made the stuffing and it was all mighty fine. So, who says one has to be in Italy to have a delicious meal?!
 

We've had glorious weather this week; great for taking brisk walks in the neighborhood or on the beach. Walking on the shore along the Pacific Ocean is a big part of why I love living here; there's something about the sea that gets deep inside of me. I don't know if being a Pisces plays a role, but the ocean touches me in a way that nothing else does. Early on Thanksgiving afternoon, I took a walk through the neighborhood. The leaves on our trees have been actively changing colors for the past three weeks and now they are falling rapidly to the ground. November is one of my favorite months in San Diego; the air is getting colder and that “autumn feel” is in its full glory.The day after the holiday, while thousands of shoppers went looking for bargains, I went to the beach. The marine layer was in and the sun, as much as it tried to break through, stayed behind the clouds. Plenty of people were out and about, the dogs were having a “field day”, and quite a number of “brave souls” were in the water; must have been tourists!

Thanksgiving is a day etched in the history of the United States; a day when we remember who we are and what we have; a day when togetherness rules; a day when our hearts keenly feel gratitude; a day of American football...and a day when the turkey is king.

 

 

 

 

Si Mangia Bene Ad Assisi...

Il 1 novembre
Assisi

Coming to Assisi as often as I do, I've decided to make one of my projects the “experience” of as many restaurants as I can...because I love to eat and I also want to be a source of recommendations for those who read my blog and visit this beautiful city. And I have fallen in love...
 

Osteria Piazzetta Dell'Erba, located just a very short walk from Piazza del Comune, is “Number One” on my list. Now, I've eaten in lots of wonderful restaurants here that I would recommend whole-heartedly, but this place has a "sophisticated edge.” It's not only that everything I've eaten in this retaurant has been “delizioso”, but the presentation of the dishes is lovely.

I ate here for the first time a couple of nights ago with my friend, Pietro. It was, truly, a memorable dinner, so, of course, I needed to come back again before I get on the plane for home Sunday morning.
 

This restaurant is a family affair. Matteo, the “master chef” studied at a culinary school in Assisi and has been cooking for 15 years; seven at this restaurant, but the owner, as well, for the last eight months. Assisted in the kitchen by his wife, Francesca, and in the dining area by his brother, Daniele, Matteo has that sense of knowing just how to combine flavors so that the palate is at once “surprised” yet very comfortable.
 

Open for lunch and dinner, the service is personal and with a smile. And, as Matteo told me, his dishes are “traditional recipes with modern inspiration.” My dining experience at Osteria Piazzetta Dell'Erba was glorious...I'm looking forward to trying everything on the menu when I came back to Assisi next May...this gives me plenty of time to go on a diet first!

 

                                    Osteria Piazzetta Dell'Erba

                                 Via S. Gabriele dell'Addolorata

                           06081 Assisi (PG) – Tel. 075/815352

 

Pecorino Grigliato Con Salsa Di Pere e Speck

 

Gnocchi Di Zucca Con Fonduta Di Fontina e Guanciale Crocante

 

Stracotto Di Manzo Con Polenta Di Castagne E Verdure Glassate

Zuppa di Carote Con Madaleine e Sorbetto Al Mandarino

                                                   

Daniele, Francesca, Matteo

Gubbio...And Looking for Don Matteo...

Il 28 ottobre

Assisi

 

Another day of on and off rain and it's a good time to get caught up on some writing. A couple of years ago when I first came to Assisi, I met Don Matteo; rather, I should say I found the TV program one night while channel surfing and immediately I fell in love with this wonderful character. From that moment on, I never missed a segment in all of my trips here; unfortunately, the program finished last May and Terence Hill (you might remember him from his westerns) is now playing another character on a completely different program and Don Matteo has become a memory from my past.

 

The program took place in the hillside Umbrian town of Gubbio. Don Matteo was the local and beloved parish priest who, each week, helped the police solve crimes (usually murders), much to the frequent chagrin of Maresciallo (the police captain) who never really wanted to admit that he could use the help. Assisted by another police chief, who fell in love with and ultimately married Maresciallo's daughter (and there were plenty of twists and turns in that relationship saga), Maresciallo was able to “appear in charge” and the “bad guys” were always caught. Don Matteo was one of those “feel good” programs, and, even though it always started off with a crime, the heartful and generous priest always put everything in its proper perspective.

So, I have wanted to visit Gubbio for the past two years, but because the train/bus connection is very inconvenient, the trip never happened...until now. When I rented my current apartment last May, Clara and Giovanni, the owners of this lovely home, and I got to talking about the program and my “crush” on the parish priest and they promised to take me to Gubbio when I returned here this fall. After a wonderful lunch with the family a few weeks ago, the three of us set out for my long awaited adventure.

Gubbio is well-known for its Corsa dei Ceri, a run that happens every May 15^th when three teams, in honor of St. Ubaldo (patron saint of Gubbio), each carry a stature of the saint weighing 280 kilograms, and, starting out from the Palazzo dei Consoli, they run up a mountain to arrive at the basilica of St. Urbaldo...always lots of people, lots of excitement, and lots of energy. For me, though, my trip to Gubbio was all about checking out the piazza and the familiar streets that I remembered so well from my hours of TV viewing. I even looked for Don Matteo...just in case he heard that I was coming to town.

 

When It Rains Here...It Really Rains...

Il 27 ottobre

Assisi
 

Living in San Diego where we never have enough rain, I always welcome the gray skies and downpours...provided that I am wearing “il mio cappotto italiano” (typical quilted coat worn here) and carrying “un ombrello.” That being said, the entire country is often “hit” with major rainstorms that result in a lot of damage.
 

The weather forecast prepared us for lower temperatures and heavy precipitation so I decided to “hunker down” in the house, read, watch TV, and, of course, drink some wine and continue to eat well since I only have one week left before getting on a plane for home. Watching the news as I write this, I'm seeing pictures of flooded streets and sandbagged doors in much of Italy and I wonder why this country is not better prepared as this is typical weather for the late autumn and winter months.
 

Looking at the rain from my terrace earlier today, I was once again reminded that Assisi is a medieval city; the houses are made of stone, and even when updated, they get cold and heating (il riscaldamento) is costly. For me, inside the house and warm in my sweats, it's all a bit romantic and poetic...a rainy day in an old walled city.
 

However...this is not the best day to be a tourist here; it's chilly and very wet; the shops that sell umbrellas are, undoubtedly, doing well.
 

 

 

Il Cimitero...

Il 25 ottobre

Assisi

Outside the walls of Assisi is the cemetery; it's a very peaceful place to visit if one is not grieving for the loss of a loved one. There's something about going to an old cemetery that both saddens and fascinates me; the former because I think of lives lost and grief felt and the latter because I am surrounded by the history of times gone by and the lives that lived that history. Walking through a cemetery reminds me of how lucky I am to be alive and of all the blessings that I continue to feel each day and I am always “more centered” after such a visit.

When my dear friend, Mario Brunacci invited me to go to the cemetery with him to visit la tomba of Don Aldo Brunacci, along with the graves of other family members, it was with pleasure that I accepted the invitation. With roses in hand, I met him on the street between our two houses and we set out together; an Assisani who grew up on these very streets and “his student” who learns from him every time I have the pleasure of his company.

Il cimitero is located just after a short walk on a beautiful tree-lined road a few minutes beyond the old city . Outside its locked gate is a shop to buy flowers and plants and this is where Mario and I had our first stop. An interesting custom in Italy is that a body can stay buried for only ten years. After that, whatever remains is dug up and put into a small container which can be reburied or put in a niche in the wall. This way, there will always be room for other family members in the same plot. There are all sorts of tombs nel cimitero...big ones with grand tombstones, smaller ones with tombstones that often have photos of the deceased, niches in the wall for bodies, and small niches for the ten year+ remains.

 After leaving my flowers at the tomb of Don Aldo, we went to visit Signora Weiss and, as is the custom in the Jewish religion, I left a stone on her grave. We also passed the tombs of Luigi and Trento Brizi, the father and son who printed i documenti falsi for the refugees, and that of another "partisan" who also helped the underground movement.

The morning was one of closure for me; after these past few weeks of research, I was able to give thanks to those who saved the lives, not only of the Jewish refugees who were hidden here during the war, but of future generations who are alive today because of the faith and courage of a few brave souls.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My Visit with Graziella Viterbi...

il 23 ottobre 2012
Assisi

Just a couple of weeks ago, I found out that Graziella Viterbi comes to Assisi every year and that she had been here, but had already left, much to my disappointment. With the assistance of the owner of the hotel where Graziella stays, I called her at home and we arranged for “una intervista” a Roma. And so it happened that yesterday morning I took the train to Rome for an interview with this most interesting and gracious woman.

Although Graziella is also fluent in English and French, we both preferred to speak in Italian and, except for a few instances when I wanted to make sure that I had correctly understood, our interview was conducted “in italiano” which made the experience even more extraordinary for me. Much of what Graziella told me has already been recounted in a prior blog entry, but I would still like to tell it again as these are the words of a courageous woman who lived the experience.

With the passage of the Racial Laws of 1938, life for the Jews in Italy changed dramatically. In the beginning, Graziella, who was still a young girl, didn't mind the changes much as the laws only deepened her pride in being Jewish. As she told me, "if they didn't want us, it was okay with me." With the passage of time, the level of anxiety and danger increased and with the arrival of the German army in Italy, it was clearly a signal to leave Padua. The family was on holiday at the time and the owner of the inn (a Fascist who "walked both sides") where the family was staying suggested that they go to a place further up in the mountains. After a month there and with the weather turning much colder, it became an untenable situation. The German commander was told that Graziella's father was ill and permission was granted to the family to return home. They traveled south and, after stopping in Roma, continued on to Assisi where they spent one month in two rooms at a small albergo (Hotel Sole which is still operating) near the Piazza Santa Chiara. It was during this time that Graziella's father met a friend from Padua who told him of the clandestine operation to assist the Jews. Signore Viterbi went to the Vescovo (bishop) seeking help; thus began his (and his family's) relationship with Monsignor Nicolini and Don Aldo Brunacci.

When I asked Graziella if she was scared, she told me that she wasn't afraid, although she said that it was more difficult for her younger sister Mirjam who, at ten years old and too young to understand, knew that papa and mamma were preoccupied, although outwardly remaining calm and not appearing to be nervous.

In the early spring of 1944, the family was advised to try and find another place to live as there were getting to be too many Jews in Assisi and there was concern for their safety. Graziella and her mother went to Perugia in search of a house and found a flat to move into. Shortly before the scheduled move (April/May), Signora Viterbi received news that family members had been deported. Distraught, she did not want to leave her home in Assisi. This turned out to save her family's life because, shortly after the scheduled move to Perugia, a bomb destroyed what would have been their new home.

With the arrival of the Allied forces in June,1944 (English troops that included a Palestinian Brigade made up of Jewish soldiers), there was great rejoicing, although the family then had to decide what to do. As their palazzo in Padua had been partially destroyed by a fire (occuring during a Fascist party) and there were no funds to repair the damages, the Viterbi's decided to stay in Assisi for the meantime. Graziella's father secured a position teaching in Perugia, but after seven years, the family moved to Roma where Signore Viterbi taught at the university and Graziella and Mirjam continued their schooling. Graziella, who received a degree in criminology, went on to receive a diploma in Social Service, a career she was devoted to for many years.

When asked about Colonnello Muller, Graziella had nothing but words of praise for this German comandante who undoubtedly knew what was going on, but never said anything...un segreto nascosto (a hidden secret). Infatti (in fact), after the war, Graziella and her family developed a strong friendship with this courageous man and his family and they visited one another, both in Rome and Germany.

The 2.5 hours I spent with this lovely woman went by quickly, but there was still enough time to talk of other things personal about her life and mine and what we hold in common. We ended our visit with her sharing family photos and my taking pictures. I left Graziella's apartment with much gratitude and joy and a smile as I thought about one of her stories which I will share with all of you...

One day, while the family was in Assisi, Don Aldo gave Graziella false documents to bring to some other families. It was felt that if a young teenage girl was seen as simply taking a stroll that no one would be the wiser. Graziella, who was very proud to be carrying the documents, happened to pass by a German sentinel who, as she said, "looked at me like I was a normal person."  She was so full of pride (molto fiere) after completing her mission, that, being a fearless ragazza of 17 years old, Graziella made it a point to walk in front of the German soldier yet again. In her words..."I had the pleasure to do something." ...And in mine, "Yes, you did, Graziella Viterbi...and I thank you."

 

La Famiglia Brunacci Ad Assisi...

Il 13 ottobre 2012

Assisi
 

The first Brunacci to come to Assisi was Chiara who arrived sometime in the 1400's. According to Maria (Brunacci), the family has been in Assisi per sempre (for always) and it certainly feels that way. Being in Assisi for so many hundreds of years, the Brunacci family is quite extended; it seems, now that I am aware of it, that the longer I am here, the more “parente della famigila” (relatives of the family) I am meeting. And so it was yesterday when Mario Brunacci (my wonderful 90 year old friend who has fast become a “pal”) took me to meet and visit with Maria and Liliana (nieces of Don Aldo Brunacci) so that I could learn more of what happened here during the war.
 

Mario picked me up a few minutes before 5:00 (He is absolutely punctual!) and escorted me for the very short walk. At the door I was warmly greeted by these two thoughtful and lovely ladies who quickly showed me to the chair they had prepared for me. After a few introductory words, our conversation began in earnest.

Liliana (the younger of the two) presented me with a couple of books. As they were the same ones that Mario had previously given me and Liliana's wanting me to keep at least one of her gifts, she asked me to return one of the books to Mario...I agreed and everybody was pleased.

Liliana was a young child during the war so, for her, life didn't seem too “out of the ordinary.” She did mention that there wasn't any sugar and people were given food ration coupons. Actually, for the most part, daily life in Assisi was relatively undisturbed; the city was protected because of the medical services it was providing for the German soldiers (Assisi was officially declared a hospital city) and, by and large, the local “puppet” government under Fortini did what it was told.
 

Jewish refugees from other countries were already in Assisi in 1943; notably some from France who had entered the country via Genoa. For those who weren't Italian, one of the most difficult tasks was learning the language without a native accent. According to Maria, a good number/most of the refugees were in hiding, although the Viterbi's, among others, lived in private apartments with the “semblance” of a normal life. Maria, who was a friend of Graziella Viterbi, told me of the many times the two girls would get together; it wasn't until after the war that Maria learned of Graziella's real identity and that she was Jewish. The convent where the refugees were hidden was cloistered so, with the exception of Don Aldo who was allowed in to hear confession, no men were ever allowed to enter; a good way to keep the German soldiers out. As there were often German planes flying over the city taking pictures, when the men wanted to go out in the garden, they would wear the habits and veils of le sorelle, pretending to be sisters of the convent.
 

Monsignor Nicolini, besides hiding some documents in his office, hid a Jewish candelabra and other valuables brought by the refugees in the ground underneath il vescovado (home of the bishop.) Everything was scrupulously planned out and done to ensure the safety and comfort of those who came to Assisi in search of protection.
 

As to the imprisonment and release of Don Aldo...Someone either suspected or knew of Don Aldo's work and posted a very public sign that he had helped the Jews. Il colonnello Muller (who was praised by both Maria and Liliana for his “ignorance” of the clandestine activity and for his support of the Assisani) had no choice but to have Don Aldo arrested. While he was in prison in Perugia, Don Also's sister went there and met with “higher ups” in the clergy, telling them all that had happened. Due to her efforts, a representative came from the Vatican telling the German authorities that Don Aldo was a citizen of il Vaticano (with its own government and laws) and, as such, was not a citizen of Italy and, therefore, not subject to the laws of Italy and needed to be released from prison. This, undoubtedly, saved Don Aldo's life as he had already been scheduled for a transport to Auschwitz that was to leave shortly thereafter...

 

Ebrei In Assisi Durante La Guerra - Due Storie...

Il 9 ottobre 2012
Assisi

The Stories – Part 2

There are some especially wonderful stories of generosity, courage, and inventiveness that are a testimony to the goodness of humanity; one such is the narrative about the Viterbi family. Emilio Viterbi was a professor at the University of Padua who, as a result of the Laws of 1938, was no longer allowed to teach. Daughters Grazia and Mirjam had to leave school and their friends came less and less to visit, fearful that they would get into trouble. Some time later, a red Star of David was painted over their front door and for the next 4.5 years, the family lived in uncertainty and fear...and, then, in May of 1943, the synagogue of Padua was set in flames. That summer, while the family was staying temporarily in a hotel away from Padua which then, ultimately, became too dangerous a place for them, Grazia and Mirjam's parents heard from other guests that, in Assisi, although the podesta was Fascist, he was “una bravissima personna.” The family left for Assisi shortly after.

Once there, Emilio, who was an admirer of San Francesco, found a friend from Padua who told him of two other Jewish families in the city. Emilio and his wife, Margherita, were introduced to Don Aldo Brunacci, Arnoldo Fortini, and Monsignor Nicolini. An apartment was quickly found for the family, their name was changed, and false documents were procured. Their “true” identity cards were hidden by Monsignor Nicolini behind a picture of the Madonna that hung on a wall in his study. With a new identity, the family was able to leave the house and visit with other families that were in hiding, some of whom were in the Monastery of San Quirico.
 

In the early months of 1944, the police went to the hotel where the family had first stayed in search of them. Although the police were told that the family had gone to Firenze, it was felt by all that their apartment would no longer be safe. There is a lovely story of how Monsignor Nicolini offered his own bedroom for the Viterbi's to stay in. Not wanting to accept this generous offer, Emilio decided to take the family to Perugia and go into hiding there. This plan was foiled with the arrest of some members of the underground movement in March of 1944 and the further bombing of the apartment the family was supposed to have lived in. The new identity cards which had already been printed changing the family's name, origin, and residency, would not be used.

On May 15^th of that year, Emilio and Margherita were waiting in in Don Aldo's office to discuss a new plan for the family when two policemen came to arrest him. Don Aldo quickly went upstairs, took his breviary, closed the door to his office, and walked calmly outside with the police who then had no reason to search for anything...or anyone. Once again, the Viterbi family had been saved.

 

Another story, which I love to share, is that of Signora Weiss. Originally from Vienna, she was staying in the Monastery of San Quirico, when she died from a cardiac crisis. The problem became how to bury her without revealing her true identity. As the sky grew dark, her coffin was carried to the Cimitero di Assisi, right outside the city walls. Don Aldo led the funeral procession and the casket was placed in a funeral niche that he had purchased under his own name. The next day, Signora Weiss became “Bianca Bianchi” where she still lies peacefully to this day. The only difference is that her tombstone has been changed to reveal her true identity; her son, coming after the war to visit her grave, acknowledged the loving hospitality of the people of Assisi on her stone.
 

As an added note...To all those who watched, this appeared to be a Catholic funeral and, being such, the German soldiers saluted the coffin of an elderly Jewish refugee as she was carried away...

 

Ebrei In Assisi Durante La Guerra...

Il 7 ottobre 2012
Assisi

Part 1 - The Main Players

This is a story that needs to be told. It is a story of generosity, of faith, of friendship, and of great courage. It is a story that affected me personally as one of the most important people in my life, a man who is very much like a father to me, is a “sopravvissuto” - a survivor of the Holocaust. Abraham is my hero and, although he had nothing to do with this particular story, I dedicate this blog entry to him, for it is his love of life, his reverence for nature, and his very real understanding of freedom that continue to inspire me each day. And to all the Assisani who hid, protected, and kept alive 300 Jews during 1943-1944, I thank you.

I had the pleasure this morning of having coffee with Paolo Mirti, a nephew of Don Aldo Brunacci, one of the “key players” in this tale, and the author of a book that gives a detailed account of this period. Mirti, who is a journalist, author of theatrical works, and collaborates on the writing of news articles and periodicals, loves Assisi and recognized the importance of telling this story, not only to write about the heroism of ordinary people, but to remind us that goodness can prevail; that whatever one's culture or beliefs, the human spirit is one.
 

A bit of historical background...

In 1938, under Mussolini's Fascist government, racial laws of persecution were passed, (Laws for the Defense of the Race), with the aim of segregating Jews from Italian society and resulting in the immediate disruption of jobs and education; life was turned upside down and thousands of Jews emigrated out of the country and/or converted to escape persecution. It was, however, during the period between September, 1943 and June, 1944 that the Jews of Italy were in the greatest danger. The Germans were occupying northern Italy and had put Mussolini in charge of a puppet Fascist state; it was then that the Nazis implemented their Final Solution on Italian soil and for the next 20 months, Italian and German authorities arrested over 8,000 Jews in northern Italy with almost 7,000 being deported to concentration and death camps.

In Assisi...

In 1928 Monsignor Giuseppe Placido Nicolini became il vescovo, the bishop, of Assisi. A number of years later, knowing that he had to protect his city from any bombardment, he was instrumental in the opening of a military hospital for the German soldiers; in this manner, the city of San Francesco would be safe. Nicolini formed un Comitato di Assistenza; a “Committee of Assistance” to help those in need as a result of the war and, after Sept. 8, 1943, he dedicated himself to the rescue of and hiding Jewish refugees from the north in the convents and monasteries of Assisi; this, of course, was an underground operation that put all of the participants in danger.

Don Aldo Brunacci was a priest at the Cathedral of San Rufino in Assisi, secretary of il Comitato per l'Assistenza, and the principal collaborator of Nicolini. Working with others, he put in place a successful clandestine operation that saved hundreds of lives. His first concern was to get the Jewish refugees safely and systematically in the Monastery of San Quirico where they would stay until receiving false documents that would allow them to live undisturbed in Assisi. Don Aldo would procure the documents for the refugees with their new names and cities of origin; this resulted in long hours of learning new family stories, geography, and local customs so that, if stopped by the German soldiers, they had an “authentic” storyline.

Luigi and Trento Brizi (father and son), at great risk, printed all the false identity cards and any other documents necessary for the refugees to live safely in Assisi.
 

Arnaldo Fortini was the Fascist podesta of Assisi, appointed by the central government to carry out the duties of mayor, who worked with Nicolini to ensure that Assisi and its inhabitants would be safe during the war. He was aware that Jewish refugees were in hiding in Assisi.

Colonnello Valentin Muller was the official German doctor and commandante in Assisi who worked with Nicolini to save the city. He was against the arrogance and cruelty of the Nazi regime and it is strongly believed that he had some idea that there was a clandestine operation underway and "turned a blind eye." A follower of San Francesco, he donated medical supplies to Assisi when the Germans were leaving and asked the Allied troops to respect the city and its citizens..

 

Un Evento ad Assisi...

Il 30 settembre

Assisi
 

It's already 9:00 pm on Sunday and there's a bit of rain in the air. I just watched the weather forecast and autumn temperatures and precipitation are on their way in. October is generally a beautiful month in Italy. Although the weather can change within moments in Assisi and one needs to dress in layers and always carry “un ombrello”, there are lots of sunny hours when the sky is clear and the air is brisk and refreshing after the hot summer days...and there were many of those this year.

My charming friend, Pietro Mariottini has a lovely art store in town and this evening he hosted “un evento” to showcase a local artist and introduce a new perfume, created for the event. He invited me to the gathering and also asked if I would help translate for any English speakers who didn't speak/understand Italian. Quite a number of people visited the gallery, which is filled with an eclectic and wonderfully creative collection of religious art, primarily. Afterwards, we were all treated to an aperitivo at the “bar” across the street. A lovely time was had and, yes, I did get to use my translating skills for one woman who bought a bottle of perfume.

www.batassisi.it

This week is La Festa di San Francesco so there will be lots going on – a once yearly open air market held in the center of town, religious processions and services, concerts, and a general feeling of celebration amongst the throngs of visitors who come especially at this time. Walking today meant navigating through groups of tourists, their headsets hanging down their necks and their guides holding up signs and checking to see if all were accounted for. It's great for the local businesses and I am always happy to see my friends thriving, but then I'm even happier when calm reigns again...