Planting Trees and Meeting Again...

September 27

Jerusalem

It is a custom to plant trees in Israel. This project, started by the Jewish National Fund many years ago, has been responsible for the planting of thousands of trees covering the hillsides. Our group went to the Aminadav Forest where each of us picked out our saplings and, shovel in hand, put our trees in the ground. It was an emotional visit for me as I planted four trees-one to honor the memory of my father who died 21 years ago, and another for my mother who passed away almost two years ago. My tears of sorrow were replaced by smiles of joy as I planted a tree to honor Abraham, my dearest friend and the beloved companion of my mother during her last 13 years, and Dylan and Spencer, my great-niece and great-nephew; naturally, the smartest and most delightful children one could ever meet!!

A last walk through the Jewish Quarter and the ancient Roman marketplace concluded the tour and we returned to the hotel to pack and, for most of the group, to prepare for long flights home.

I mentioned in my first email that I met the mother of one of my first grade students from 1982 at the Ben Gurion Airport. So, Carol (amazing how she recognized me) picked me up at the hotel at 4:30 and we went to her apartment (Hubby, Gary was there as well.) where I was “reunited” with Matt and met his lovely wife, Luli, and their three beautiful children. So much talking and getting caught up and then it was out to dinner in a local restaurant and another Israeli food-fest. I also got to talk via Skype with Ari, another one of my former students who now lives in San Diego, and have also re-connected via Facebook with Yael,who was in that same class, and lives here with her family. What a way to end the tour...truly indescribable!

There are no coincidences in life...of that I feel sure...

From the Israel Museum to Machane Yehuda and then some...

September 26

Jerusalem

Today was a “light” day of sightseeing as we went to the Israel Museum to see the model (built to scale) of the Old City and the Shrine of the Book where a portion of the Dead Sea Scrolls are kept. We drove past the Knesset (Israeli Parliament) and other government buildings, stopping to visit the Menorah, a most striking symbol of the Israeli State. A drive through some of the very religious neighborhoods in Jerusalem was followed by a stop at Machane Yehuda, the big, central open-air market in the city, which was filled with crowds of people doing their holiday food shopping.

A highlight of the day for me was having coffee with Barbara, a most lovely and caring friend from San Diego, in a cafe in the very modern and upscale Mamilla Mall next to my hotel. We sat and talked for a couple of hours and then it was time for me to get “cleaned up” for the group's farewell dinner, held at the hotel. A good time was had by all and the meal was superb.

Never to forget...

September 25 Jerusalem

This morning was spent in the Old City starting at the Temple Mount with a visit to the Dome of the Rock and the El Aqza Mosque; this latter mosque is one of the most holy mosques for Moslems and, like the Dome of the Rock, is open only to those of the Islamic faith. All over the mount, which is akin to a big plaza, separate groups of men and women sat together talking and studying. As we were not able to enter either mosque, which was something I could do in 1979, we had another history lesson from Eli and took pictures of these two holy sites. From there we went to the Western Wall and saw some of the excavations done under and around the southern part of the wall, followed by a visit to Mount Zion to visit the room of the Last Supper and King David's Tomb.

The afternoon was a somber one with a visit to the Yad Vashem Holocaust Museum, the Children's Memorial, and the Hall of Remembrance. Writing about this experience on a blog is not something I can easily do as I don't feel comfortable describing the horror of the Holocaust with mere words. All I can do is try and honor the six million Jews murdered by the Nazis with my prayers...and never to forget.

Later on in the evening we explored the tunnels under the Western Wall; the wall, built by King Herod to surround the Temple has been, until now, the closest remaining “structure” to this ancient holy site. (The original Temple, built by King Solomon, was completely destroyed by the Babylonians.) The tunnels are, actually, under the Arab Quarter in Jerusalem, as the El Aqza Mosque was built on the same spot where the Temple was located. Discovery of these tunnels has been an amazing feat and people can now pray very close to where the Holy Ark, sacred to the Jews, was located so long ago.{ As an additional piece of history, the Western Wall was occupied by the Jordanians until 1967 (After 1948, Jews were forbidden to go there.) when Israel regained access during the Six Day War.}

From Jerusalem to Bethlehem...

September 24

Jerusalem

Today's tour began at the Mount of Olives with stops at Christian holy places- Dominus Flevit (the site of Jesus' weeping over Jerusalem), the Gardens of Gethsemane, and the Church of All Nations. From there we walked through the Old City which is divided into 4 quarters-The Jewish, The Christian, The Armenian, and The Moslem; each “neighborhood” clearly representing the customs and socio-economic status of its inhabitants. Whatever quarter one walks in is a journey in time; each area has a unique story to tell.

Eli's charming wife, Tsila, who we had met on our first day in Tel Aviv, joined us for a traditional Middle Eastern lunch at a local restaurant in the Old City. Before going into the restaurant, an Arab man selling bread walked by and I remarked how much I had loved eating this bread when I lived in Jerusalem. As I had no shekels with me, she kindly bought some for me; the “bagelah” is more or less oval/rectangular in shape, crispy on the outside and covered with sesame seeds with a light, but chewy dough inside. When you buy the bread, you're also given a packet of spices to dip it in. So, between this bread, the falafel, and humus at lunch, served with frozen lemonade (rather like an alcohol-free margarita), I lacked for absolutely nothing! Oh, there was strong coffee and baclava for dessert. Tsila and I sat and talked and I was very much taken by her openness and friendship as we shared stories about our lives.

The afternoon provided a unique experience as we crossed the border into Bethlehem which is under the control of the Palestinian Authority. Eli did not go with us and once there, we were met by a Palestinian guide who took us to the Shepherds' Field and he Church of the Nativity. Driving through Bethlehem was like going to another world as Palestinian flags flew everywhere and Arabic was heard on every street. As I didn't want to miss an opportunity for a political discussion, I quietly asked my guide, who was born and is currently living in Bethlehem, what he thought about “things.” After twice mentioning “Israeli Occupation”, he “pulled back” a bit and told me he could lose his job if he spoke too much, but he would love to buy me a coffee and speak privately. So, while the rest of the group was browsing in the gift shop, I sat on a stoop with him and we talked; or rather, he talked and I listened. He spoke of the limitations on his life in Bethlehem and how different civilizations had lived on the land and “We should all live in peace together and how easy it would be.” It was at that point that I asked him about Hamas and suicide bombers and what did he think of that. His response was a shrug of the shoulders and a “We should all live in peace. This land should be for all of us.” I did mention the refugee camps that were formed after the war because Arab countries would not take in their fellow Arabs and how they have become a “breeding ground” of hatred. To that, he, again, responded with a shrug and a “We should all live in peace.” I knew that further conversation would be pointless so I thanked him for sharing his thoughts and got on the bus. He did invite me to come back to Bethlehem and spend the day with him...

From the Dead Sea to Jerusalem...

September 23 

Jerusalem

Today was, indeed, a day of contrasts as we traveled from the depths of the Negev Desert to the heights of the sacred Kotel (Western Wall) in Jerusalem. Leaving the Dead Sea after breakfast, we drove through the Negev, stopping first at the Ramon Crater, one of the three largest craters in the world. The barrenness of the desert, coupled with its majestic and fierce beauty, and the sheer size of the crater was one of those National Geographic pictures, except that I was in the middle of it, instead of turning the pages of a magazine. There are seven modern Bedouin towns in the Negev, but there are also many Bedouin camps scattered about; some tents and some tin shacks and the camels and hardy souls who tend them. After a while, we could see Beer Sheva on our left, Israel's thriving city created from sand; one of those “miracles in the desert”, except that this one was created with the sweat and toil of human hands.

During our visit to Sde Boker, home of David Ben Gurion, Israel's first Prime Minister, and a man largely responsible for the creation of this wonderful country, Eli gave us a history lesson, taking us back to the years of 1947 and 1948 and the intensity of those days. I felt like I was there and I could feel Eli's passion; so much more poignant because it came from a man who fought for his country in the 1967 war.

A visit, also, to the Naot Goat Farm where we sampled wonderful cheese and yogurt and met the owner of what has become a successful business enterprise in the middle of the desert was just another example of the determination and courage of the people who call Israel their home.

Arriving in Jerusalem in the late afternoon, we stopped at Mt. Scopus, site of the Hebrew University and a place I once knew well, where we had our first panoramic view of the city and shared wine and the welcome blessing. I will admit to being shocked at the hustle and bustle and the traffic; Jerusalem of today, like the rest of Israel, is far different from the Jerusalem of my memories. Not to say that this is a bad thing; just different and a testimony to the growth and development of this tiny country. From Mt. Scopus, we went to our hotel to rest and prepare for Shabbat.

A Shabbat service at the Western Wall has to be an experience like no other as hundreds of people, from the very religious to the merely curious, gather for prayer and song and celebration. I prayed; I sang; I rejoiced; I touched the holy wall. Walking through the Jewish Quarter of the Old City was a personal journey for me; the evening made even more memorable by having a “traditional Shabbat dinner” led by a most delightful Rabbi. And the food, a combination of Sephardic and Askenazic tradition, just kept coming...

Floating and the Mud...

September 22  

The Dead Sea

It's already Thurday afternoon; one day just flows into the next; the camraderie amongst the group grows as we keep up a busy pace and try and take it all in. We left Tiberias yesterday and headed south to this lowest point on earth. It has been very hot these last few days and we are all drinking lots of water which means many bathroom visits!

Our first stop yesterday was to see the ruins of the ancient Bet Alpha Synagogue, built during the early Christian period. The mosaic floor has been beautifully preserved and the designs charmingly reflect both Greek and biblical motifs. From there we drove through the Jordan Valley along the border with Jordan, to arrive at Qumran. It was here in 1947, purely by accident, that the Dead Sea Scrolls, written and then hidden by the Essenes, were discovered in a cave; the extensive excavation of the area began soon after and hundreds of scrolls were later uncovered.

After lunch, some of us took a short walk in the Ein Gedi Natural Reserve to see one of the waterfalls. Then it was back on the bus and our arrival at the hotel. I have a wonderful room on the 7^th floor (most of the group are nearby) that faces the Dead Sea. As soon as my suitcase was brought up, I pulled out my bathing suit and went to the fresh water swimming pool. From there I, naturally, had to walk down to the beach and “sample” the Dead Sea. The water has such a high mineral content that one simply floats. You can even sit on the water and read a book! After about 15 minutes, I noticed some people were slathering mud all over their bodies and I asked the lifeguard where I could get some. No longer free and on the beach as I remembered from my first trip to Israel in 1979, the mud is packaged and available for sale in the gift shop. So it was back to my room to get my credit card for this very important purchase. Returning back to the sea, I asked the lifeguard, who told me a very interesting story of how his family had fled Egypt in 1957 when Nasser expelled the Jews, to cut open my packet of mud. He did that and I covered myself completely only to then be told by him that the mud is just for “pictures” and really doesn't do anything for one's skin! Okay, so I bought 3 packs...who knew! Actually, I think he's wrong because the mud of the Dead Sea is well-known and the spa has a number of mud body treatments...and my skin is nice and smooth!

Waking up this morning around 6:00 am, I looked out from my terrace and saw bathers in the sea. Not to miss out on the experience, I was in my bathing suit within minutes and floating at 6:30, in time to see the sunrise. Hard to describe what it was like to be floating on the Dead Sea watching the sun come up...one of those unforgettable moments.

This morning, after a wonderful buffet breakfast, we got on the bus and went to Masada. Built by King Herod, Masada served as a palatial fortress for the king, and is best known as the last bastion of Jewish freedom fighters against the Romans. The tragedy of that last day when the community committed suicide, rather than be taken by the Roman army, has become a symbol of the continuous struggle for freedom from tyranny. In order to reach the fortress, one can walk up, which is long and would be extremely difficult to do in the heat (and it was oppressively hot today) or take the cable car which is what we all did. As I have an extreme fear of heights, I was concerned about the trip up and sat on the floor of the cable car so I wouldn't be able to see out. My fears were unfounded because the ride was so smooth that one wasn't even aware of moving. We toured the excavations-the bathhouses, storerooms, synagogue, family quarters, etc.; each discovery more and more amazing. Although this was my third visit to Masada, the thrill was just as great; the only difficulty was the extreme heat which beat down upon us.

So now I'm off to the spa and then a “Namaste” 75 minute massage...

40 Kilometers from Damascus...

September 20 
The Golan Heights

It is only by visiting the Golan Heights that one can truly understand the strategic importance of this critical northern area of Israel on the border with Syria. Today's adventure took us to the Tel Dan Reserve and excavation site, Banias, Mt. Bental, and stops to view the Israeli-Syrian border, in plain site and only 40 kilometers from Damascus. We were privileged to watch a movie about the battle for the Golan during the Yom Kippur War in 1973. Israel was attacked on this most holy of days and was unprepared for the onslaught by both Egypt and Syria. The Israeli army, enormously outnumbered in manpower, tanks, and artillery by the Syrian army in the north, and in the face of unbelievable odds, held fast and defeated the enemy. To use the words “heroic” and “courageous” doesn't come close to describing the bravery and determination of these soldiers who knew the fate of Israel was in their hands. The images of the movie, including communication between the Israeli commander and the army, much of which was shot during the battle, will stay with me for a long time.

Visits to an olive mill for lunch and the Golan Winery for a tour and tasting completed a remarkable and important day in appreciating one critical piece of the history of this country.

From the Mysticism of the Kabbalah to the Magic of a Boat Ride

September 19 

Tiberias...Safed...Kibbutz Ein Gev...and a magical boat ride

We drove north this morning high up into the mountains to arrive in Safed, birthplace of the Kabbalah. Although Jewish mysticism has been popularized by Hollywood celebrities, this old and sacred teaching was traditionally allowed only to men over 40 who had already spent years studying Torah and Talmud. The end of the 15^th century and the deportation of the Jews from Spain brought many immigrants to Safed and, with them, many wise and very spiritual leaders, notably Rabbi Josef Karo, the writer of the “Shulkhan Arukh”-a most important teaching of Jewish rites and customs that enabled Jews all over the world to properly observe Jewish law. After visiting synagogues and walking through the artist quarter, we drove to Kibbutz Ein Gev, on the eastern side of Lake Kinneret, for a lunch of St. Peter's fish and a “train” tour of the grounds and history of the settlement.

The highlight of the day for me was the boat ride on the lake. The sun was shining, the waves were just enough to get me wet so I could cool off on this hot September day, and the Hebrew music filled my soul with joy.

After the 50 minute ride, we got back on the bus and visited Mt. Beatitudes, Capernaum, and Tagbha, three important sites in the life of Jesus and his teachings. In Capernaum, we also viewed the ruins of a large Jewish synagogue, built during the early Christian period. And then...back to the hotel for a dip in the lake and a swim in the pool.

Tiberias and the Sea of Galilee

September 18

Tiberias and the Sea of Galilee (Yam Kinneret)

After checking out of the hotel, our first stop was Akko (Acre), the historic walled port city and a UNESCO site. We visited the Knights' Halls and the underground city built by the Crusaders and were all amazed at the construction and sheer size of the fortress. Eli gave us a Hebrew lesson en route on the bus, which was great fun for me as I'm recalling more and more of the language. I was reminded of the “enormous crush” I had on my first Hebrew teacher at the University of California-Berkeley; he was the first Israeli I had ever met and I was in awe. (He was also very handsome and I worked hard to get that A!) As it happens, Aharon Barnea is currently an important Israeli journalist in Washington, D.C. (Wonder if he remembers me...)

Stops at Nazareth and Cana and then we arrived in Tiberias and a three night stay at a hotel overlooking the sea. Herod Antipas, son of the great Herod, built the city on the ruins of the biblical town of Rakat. In the second century it became a center of Jewish life and Talmudic schools and synagogues were built. Later conquered by the Muslims and controlled by the Turks, it ultimately became one of the four sacred cities of Israel and is a popular vacation spot for Israelis and foreigners alike.

Caesarea...the Druze...Haifa

September 17  Tel Aviv

Our day began with a drive through the Sharon Plain and a visit to Caesarea where we walked through the ruins of the Roman, Byzantine, and Crusader periods. As I am a “lover” of ancient history and archaeology, it is always a thrilling experience for me to witness the passage of time and try to better understand the human condition and man's need for conquest and power.

Lunch in a private home in a Druze village on the top of Mount Carmel provided a lesson about the relationship between the State of Israel and the Druze, who are Israeli citizens and serve in the military. It was fascinating to learn about the Druze customs and a delight to be welcomed so warmly and graciously served a traditional and very tasty meal.

A drive through the German colony of Haifa and a visit to the glorious Bahai Gardens was just a taste of this very important and beautiful port city of Israel, the third largest city in the country, and a relaxing way to end another busy day.

Boker Tov...Erev Tov

Tel Aviv September 16 Morning Boker Tov

It is a little after 6:00 am on what promises to be a beautiful Friday. My terrace overlooks the sea; there is a gentle roar of waves; joggers and power walkers are about. I sit on my terrace drinking coffee and take it all in. The beaches that run along the shore line from north to south are some of the most beautiful areas of the city, each section having its own name and unique atmosphere. A boardwalk provides easy walking and great people-watching.

Tel Aviv September 16 Evening Erev Tov

A wonderful day of adventure that started with a scrumptious buffet breakfast outside overlooking the sea. Tel Aviv, loosely translated as “hill of spring” is a bustling, vibrant city full of activity and energy. We drove through some of the busier areas of the city-Allenby and Dizengoff Streets-on the way to the old city of Jaffa, the port that served as a main entry to the ancient land of Israel. With its narrow winding alleys and lovely stone buildings that transport the visitor back to a long ago time, Jaffa is in marked contrast to the skyscrapers of South Tel Aviv. A tour of Neve Tzedek followed,a picturesque and charming part of the city and the first Jewish neighborhood to be built outside of Jaffa in the year 1887; I have been told that this is one of the more desirable places to live in Tel Aviv and I can certainly understand why. The Carmel Market, a large bazaar and the city's largest marketplace, was our stopping point for lunch and meandering. Ending the day was a visit to Rabin Square, the site of the assassination of the prime minister. Yitzhak Rabin...a man who tried to bring peace to his country...and was killed at a peace rally. Eli, our tour guide, spoke about that day and the changes that followed in Israel as a result.

Back at the hotel, I spent another couple of hours on the beach. Most people don't work on Friday as Saturday is Shabbat so there were many soaking up the sun, swimming in the Mediterranean and playing “matkot” (bat and ball). At 8:00 pm I was picked up at the hotel by Shuki and Etti (Shuki is the nephew of my dearest friend, Abraham, who was the beloved companion of my late mother, and is like a father to me.) and the three of us went to the port for a fish dinner and and laughs!

Back in Israel after 28 years...

Tel Aviv September 15

I arrived in Tel Aviv after a 14 hour flight on El Al; the only airline I would choose to take to Israel. The food and service were lovely and security at LAX was extensive; I knew that I would be in good hands as soon as I checked in. My hotel in Tel Aviv overlooks the Mediterranean and I was on the beach and in the water approximately one-half hour after getting here. The sand was white and the water was clear and warm; a great way to relax after a long trip.

Met some of my “group” at dinner tonight; quite a number of well-traveled people with stories galore. Now, about dinner....as most of you know, I thoroughly enjoy eating and tonight's repast was complete with a buffet salad selection-grilled vegetables, an assortment of fresh vegetable salads, humus that melted in my mouth, smoked fish, lox, tabouli, etc. This was followed by fish, meat, chicken, rice, pasta, and yes, a sweet table. My gastronomic palate was well-satiated; however, I'm already thinking about tomorrow morning's buffet breakfast; something that Israeli hotels are famous for.

I already have a story to tell and the trip has barely begun. I was at Ben Gurion Airport waiting for my luggage when I heard a woman calling my name. She turned out to be the mother of one of my first grade students at Akiba Academy almost 30 years ago. Her son is living in Jerusalem, all grown-up with his own family that he brought with him to welcome his parents when they arrived...on my flight!

And good shall prevail...

Watching TV this morning and the 9/11 memorials, I remember the horror of that day 10 years ago...and like millions of Americans, I weep and I pray.  I am reminded once again of the fragility of life; how easy it is to take freedom for granted; how easy it is to get caught up in things unimportant; how easy it is to let circumstances cloud the air. I used to keep a "Gratitude Journal", a book, in addition to my regular journal, where I would begin each day with an affirmation of something that I was grateful for. It didn't have to be a "big ticket item", but what the exercise did was to put in perspective how even the smallest things we tend to not think much about could be blessings and reminders of all that is perfect in our lives. So, on this last Sunday at home before I leave, I will write again, remembering how much I love my country and how proud I am to be an American...for this I am grateful.

Il fine settimana...

My last weekend at home before Wednesday's departure and my mind is full of so many thoughts as I prepare for my next adventrue. This has been a wonderful summer of enjoying family, friends, and the sand and sea of San Diego. After a few very hot days last week, today's marine layer and cool breeze have the hint of autumn and the promise of something new. My suitcases are packed; one with light clothing for the warm weather in Israel and another with sweaters, etc. for Assisi and my second fall in Italy. Trying not to disappoint myself and my Italian friends by forgetting the language, I began the summer reviewing my Italian workbooks, starting an intermediate conversation class, and even taking an online course. I was making solid progress when, somewhere along the way, I decided to put the Italian on hold and begin reviewing Hebrew. Having taken two years of the language and living briefly in Israel many years ago, I loved listening to my CD's and the memories they evoked. It's been 28 years since my fourth and last trip to Israel; I started out by being a tourist for two weeks, followed by a month of studying archaeology the following summer. My next trip was for six months with the plan of spending that time on a kibbutz; this adventure lasted six weeks when I decided that four hours of making chicken soup every morning was not how I wanted to experience Israel so I moved to Jerusalem and fell in love with the beauty and sanctity of this very special place. My final trip was as a student once again...lots of Hebrew...humus...pita...and a very memorable romance.
So now the language part of my brain has got vocabulary of these two very different languages mixing with one another and I find myself thinking in Hebrew and Italian, with some French thrown in for good measure! The perfectionist in me gets frustrated...and then I remind myself that I can order ice cream and wine in both languages...and I smile...