A Flavor Of Berlin...

Berlin, Germany

July 29 – August 2, 2014

When my trip to the Ukraine was canceled, Berlin was suggested as an alternative. This is a city that was not, initially, on my radar to visit. I'd been to several places in Germany many years ago and I wasn't inclined to return; nor did I want to visit the city of Hitler's rise to power; I didn't want to see it nor did I want to go near it. What I had forgotten, however, is that an understanding of history is not only gotten from books and movies; one has to go to the source...to see the buildings and walk the streets...to close one's eyes and imagine the sights and sounds. And I did all of this in Germany's capital city...I experienced history and learned about myself in the process.

Berlin is big, beautiful, sophisticated, and very cosmopolitan. The first written records of towns in what is now the city come from the late 12^th century and, now, this largest of German cities, is a setting of culture, politics, media, and science. It is the home of famous universities, orchestras, museums, and a fascinating, eclectic array of architecture as a result of its tumultuous history.

The Tiergarten, designed in the early 19^th century as a hunting ground, but now home to parliamentary and governmental institutions among its acres of trees, shrubs, flowers, and walking paths; the Brandenburg Gate, commissioned by King Frederick William II of Prussia as a sign of peace, but later used by the Nazis as a party symbol; the remains of the Berlin Wall and the bricks in the road that delineate what was once East and West Berlin-a separation not only physical, but with emotional and mental scars as well; the Kufurstendamm, one of the most famous avenues in Berlin and full of shops, houses, hotels, and restaurants...all of these are unique and seemingly unconnected, but, for me, each is another piece of the historical puzzle of this intriguing city.

My stay here was non-stop...emotionally difficult and thrilling at the same time. I remember the angst of seeing the Brandenburg Gate for the first time, the tears I shed at the Holocaust Memorial, the sounds of a protest demonstration I chanced upon while walking back to my hotel one afternoon, and the pain of going to the Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp on my last day...

I remember the peaceful gardens, the inspiring architecture, the remarkable museums, the progressive energy, the remembrance of the Holocaust Memorial, the pride of visiting the charming sanctuary of a small  synagogue, the awe-inspiring Jewish Museum, the thirst-quenching beer, and that glorious pastry eaten at KaDeWe, Berlin's most famous trademark department store...and, from all of it, I learned and became better from the experience. Berlin is no longer off my radar...

Moscow - A Capital City On The Move...

Moscow

July 26-29, 2014

So there I was standing in front of the Kremlin on a bright, sunny morning. For someone who grew up during the Cold War era when the words Moscow and Kremlin were suspicious and potential causes of anxiety and with current USA-Russian relations being what they are, it was one of those “Well, well, look where I am now” moments. Moscow is a big, beautiful, and very busy city...the streets are wide and the use of underground passages is frequent, the historical sights are grand and imposing, the metro stations are works of art, and there is a lot of money here (perhaps in the hands of a fortunate minority, but it is here, nevertheless.) I had a wonderful time in Moscow; it was nonstop movement with much to see and do and the energy in and around Red Square, especially, was in full throttle.

 The word kremlin actually means “fortress inside a city” and there are other ancient kremlins in Russia, although the Moscow Kremlin has become synonymous with the government of the Russian Federation and does serve as the official residence of the President, although Mr. Putin has a home somewhere else. Located in the heart of Moscow, this historic fortified complex overlooks the Moskva River, St. Basil's Cathedral and Red Square, and the Alexander Garden. Included within its wall and towers are five palaces and four cathedrals...and yes, it is impressive. The site has been inhabited since the 2^nd century and has witnessed all manner of destruction and reconstruction depending upon the whims of who was in charge. In the heart of the Kremlin is Cathedral Square, surrounded by six buildings, three of which are cathedrals. The Terem Palace, the Place of Facets, and the Grand Kremlin Palace, commissioned by Nicolas I in 1838 are glorious examples of the opulent and extravagant lifestyle of the czars. (The Armoury Building is the museum housing Russian state regalia and is well worth a visit.) And to keep up with modern times, as of May, 2013, there is now a Kremlin helipad authorized by President Putin for his back and forth commutes as his motorcades were disrupting the traffic in Moscow.

St. Basil's Cathedral, currently a museum and Moscow's world famous landmark, is dazzling and rather magical to behold. Built between 1555 and 1561 and commissioned by Ivan the Terrible, it's a World Heritage UNESCO site and, because it's so close to the Kremlin, is often confused with it. There are lots of legends about St. Basil's and, for a short while, there was talk of demolishing it because it interfered with Stalin's plans for mass parades on Red Square.

The GUM department store complex across Red Square, with its designer shops, flower beds, music, and glass dome is a regal spot to shop...and has delicious ice cream! Its quarter mile is not only a trading block, but a place of artistic, cultural, and political events and exhibitions and, like so many landmarks in Russia, its changes and growth are reflections of an ever-changing political and economic climate.

The magic of the metro where each station is a work of art...

Moscow is a city of history - past and present...

As in each of the major cities I was privileged to visit on this trip, I felt a strong need to go to a synagogue and my visit to the Choral Synagogue in Moscow was an emotional and thrilling experience. The main synagogue in Russia and the former Soviet Union opened in 1906, although construction, undergoing starts and stops, began in 1886. It is not visible from any major streets as the building was not allowed to be within the city walls, but the location does nothing to take away from its glorious interior and its importance for the Jewish community in Moscow.