Why Assisi?...

Il 21 maggio

Assisi

Having spent six out of the past twenty months in Assisi, I've been asking myself lately, “Why Assisi?” Why do I have this continual pull to return to a medieval city in Umbria when there is an entire country to explore? Granted, I have been to the well-known spots - Roma, Firenze, Pisa, Siena, Milano, Venezia, Bologna, and Cinque Terre and explored the rolling hills of the Chianti region in Toscana during these last visits, and when I was in college, I spent time on the Amalfi Coast and visited Pompeii. There have been many other towns that I've gone to, whether by train or car, but as much as I've loved exploring parts of this beautiful country and will continue to do so as I have only begun to “scratch the surface”, it is to Umbria and to Assisi, in particular, that I return to for extended visits. And what is it about Italy that keeps me coming back when my wanderlust still has a long list of places to visit before I die?

Italy is a country in social and economic turmoil. Changing from the lira to the euro started a downward spiral for the people here; at least, those I have spoken with tell me that. Seemingly, overnight, prices doubled, and it wasn't simply the luxury items, but the basic needs of food, clothing, and shelter. I have even noticed the increased price of food since my first extended trip here in the fall of 2010. The unemployment rate is over 30%; I watched a television program last week where college graduates were being interviewed; each of them wanting to work and sending out resume after resume, but with no success. Many adults in their 30's are still living at home with their parents as even renting an apartment has become too costly for many. The latest crisis to befall the country is the ever more common number of suicides taking place as many can no longer afford to pay their bills and see no other way out. With the ouster of Berlusconi last fall and the start of new leadership under Monti, there was a hope among many that I know that there would be improvement in the country. With the treasury lacking money, however, and the state of the euro in international crisis, Monti has had to substantially increase taxes which, however necessary, has placed an additional burden on those already struggling to get by. Like the rest of Europe, like the rest of the world, Italy is experiencing economic hardship and faces an uncertain future.

I could say that my being here helps the country in a small way; I pay rent, I buy groceries,I buy clothes, I eat out in restaurants, but as much as I don't consider myself a tourist in this country, I need to be honest about my life here. I am not Italian and so I can enjoy everything this country has to offer and leave it when I want to...but I am returning here more than I am leaving...which brings me back to my original question of “Why Assisi?”

This city is simply a beautiful place (un bel posto); there are no “bad” neighborhoods, there is no graffiti on the walls, and I have never felt unsafe. At one time there was a population of 3,000, but after the earthquake of 1997 which devastated much of Umbria, many left the area, especially the younger people because there is little to do here in the evening, and now there are approximately 900 inhabitants. During the tourist season, the city is packed with people, which is wonderful for the restaurants, markets, and shops, but the very cold winter months bring few visitors and the city is often eerily quiet.

I never seem to tire of walking about the city or looking out at the Umbrian Valley. I am not a Christian so the many churches here don't have particular religious importance for me, but I am in awe of their sheer size, beauty, and historical significance. Every time I walk into la Basilica di San Francesco, I am taken aback by the brilliance of the frescoes, and am reminded of my own religious faith and deep belief in G-d. Maybe that's one of the reasons I keep coming here; there's something about this place that brings me back to my core and reminds me how truly blessed I am. Hand in hand with that, every person I have met in Assisi has shown me warmth and kindness. Along with loving the physical beauty and charm of the Umbrian Valley, Italy, and Assisi in particular, has reminded me of the importance of the human connection; the great joy I experience with every chance meeting and the realization that each of us can make a difference; it doesn't take much to bring a smile to someone's day.