Thursday, April 25, 2019

A Vibrant City Is Dublin...

Dublin, Ireland 
October, 2018

Barely three days in Dublin and definitely not enough time to explore and enjoy the Republic of Ireland’s capital city. Located on the east coast at the mouth of the River Liffey, Dublin is, without a doubt, a city with a pulse. Whether it’s  tasting the past with a visit to 12th century St. Patrick’s Cathedral or 13th century Dublin Castle, strolling amongst the lush greenery of St. Stephen’s Green and Phoenix Park, learning about Irish heritage and culture in the Museum of Ireland, indulging a love of reading by exploring quaint bookshops on side streets, buying Irish woolens in one or more of the many boutiques, just drinking beer in a colorful pub, or eating any type of food you desire from organic to a meat-filled stew, Dublin is a city for all time and breathes with Irish warmth, charm, and vitality.




General Post Office - During the Easter Rising of 1916, the GPO was the headquarters of the uprising's leaders. The Proclamation of the Irish Republic was read aloud from outside the building.




In the midst of the bustle of a busy city...


Trinity College




Celebrating the past...





The Spire of Dublin - Unveiled in 2002


The Garden Of Remembrance - Commemorating all the Irish uprisings and rebellions from 1798 to the 20th century Troubles

In Honor Of
"All those who gave their lives in the cause of Irish Freedom"







Wednesday, April 24, 2019

From Londonderry To Belfast - Four Days In Northern Ireland...


Northern Ireland
October, 2019

Writing about my visit to Northern Ireland has become a more personal and poignant exercise in light of the recent murder of a young journalist. Although The Troubles ended in 1998 with The Good Friday Agreement and I saw no outward hostilities, the sense that all has not been forgiven or forgotten seemed to simmer under the surface. How does one undo 50,000 casualties and the deaths of 3,500 people?

The Government of Ireland Act 1920 partitioned Northern and Southern Ireland, the latter becoming the Irish Free State in 1922 and now known as the Republic of Ireland. The majority of Northern Ireland’s population were (and still are) Protestants, many descending from colonists from Great Britain; these unionists wanted to remain within the United Kingdom. A sizeable minority, however, were Catholic; these nationalists wanted a united Ireland independent of British rule. 

Discrimination and hostility between the two sides was commonplace during most of the 20th century. The late 1960’s (the Battle of the Bogside in 1969) was the beginning of three decades of violence between the state forces who were primarily Protestant and the Catholic nationalists. The Troubles was a period of tremendous pain, anguish, and bloodshed; political unrest, riots, hunger strikes, and violence were daily occurrences all coming from the disagreement over the constitutional status of Northern Ireland. I can recall years of watching the news on TV when it seemed like the death and destruction had no end in sight.

The Good Friday Agreement was a big step in the peace process and included the decommissioning of weapons, although religious segregation and sectarianism are, sadly, still simmering in the hearts of many who saw loved ones killed right in front of them. Negotiations on Brexit have posed an additional stress with the still undecided decision on the type of border between the two countries. Trade currently flows easily, but with one country leaving the EU and the other one remaining, the future of relations, be them economic, political, or social, between Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland is a question mark.

Londonderry (also known as Derry)

The Derry Peace Bridge over the River Foyle. Opened in 2011, its two structural arms symbolize the unification of two communities


A view of Derry from the walls of the old city



A reminder of The Troubles


The Beauty of Northern Ireland





 Belfast, the capital of Northern Ireland and a center of conflict during The Troubles, is a city with a rich culture, as well as having a history of political and religious turmoil. The dividing line between the Protestant and Catholic neighborhoods of West Belfast is maked with murals that reflect opposing sentiments about the conflict.




A former checkpoint between the two sides


The Europa Hotel, sight of 33 IRA bombings between 1970 and 1994. Opened in 1971 and hosting presidents, prime ministers, and celebrities, it has the distinction of being Europe's most bombed hotel. 


Hope for the future - the innocence of children...












Monday, April 22, 2019

Cliffs And Sheep And Irish Beauty...

Ireland
Sept./Oct., 2018

The Cliffs of Moher, approximately 300 million years old and rising to 700 feet at their highest point, have been a part of the local lore since the Celtic Age. We were there on a cold and wet day that made for a bit of physical discomfit, but, definitely, only added to the mystery of one of the most striking landscapes of Ireland. The week also took us to Oirr, the smallest of the Aran Islands, where its 250 residents still speak Gaelic. Then there was Galway where a group of us played Gaelic games before walking through the city’s medieval streets.



Oscar Wilde described Connemara as a “savage beauty” and our three mile hike here did not disappoint. Lakes, bogs, mountains, beaches, and inviting villages make up a charming quilt of beautiful sights. 





The Benedictine monastery of Kylemore Abbey with its complex history, romantic and tragic, is the jewel of a 1,000 acre estate that includes a six acre walled Victorian garden that, with its sculpted flower beds, trees, woods, and water, is a place of simple grandeur and serenity.



Life in rural Ireland means sheep and there are a lot of them! Farmers put a dye mark on each animal so that ownership is clear; it’s hard to tell one sheep from the next. The day after visiting the sheep farm, we met with a family of weavers in Donegal…the wool was made right there and all the garments were handmade...and yes, I did shop...and shop...





The castle and gardens of Glenveagh are another example of Ireland’s magic…yet, another feast.




Sunday, April 21, 2019

Land Of The Green Shamrock...

Ireland
September 20 - October 10

This past autumn, I had the privilege of spending three weeks in the Emerald Isle, a place of great physical beauty with the warmest and most gracious people one could hope to meet.The second largest of the British Isles, politically, the island is composed of two separate countries:The Republic of Ireland, taking up 5/6 of the territory and, currently, a part of the EU, and Northern Ireland whose allegiance is with the United Kingdom.

The island joys a western maritime climate, mild, but changeable with plenty of cloud cover and abundant rainfall during the fall and winter months. The mountains are low-lying, the rivers are navigable, and the vegetation is lush; a green-hued landscape enchants the eye wherever one looks.

Ireland’s colorful traditions have influenced other cultures all over the world. Irish literature, music, language, and Gaelic games have infused themselves into the hearts of many…and who hasn’t been told stories of leprechauns and pots of gold! Saint Patrick, the country’s patron saint, is celebrated yearly and a grand excuse to drink Irish beer, the consumption of which in Ireland is the 2nd highest per capita after the Czech Republic.

The first few days of my adventure were spent in County Kerry, the southwest coast of the country. Whether it was the breath-taking view of the Ring of Kerry,  the narrow mountain pass of the Gap of Dunloe, the music coming from the pubs of Dingle, or the cobblestone streets of Adare, it was the perfect introduction to the country’s physical beauty and the gracious warmth of its people.









On the way to Slea Head, the westernmost point of Ireland, these ancient stone huts known as "Beehive Huts" hide stories of a time long past.


Fish and chips, beer, and pie at a local pub in Annascaul Village. Tom Crean, who explored Antarctica with Ernest Shackleton from 1914-1917, opened the pub and it's filled with photos of his many adventures.