Neko Harbor And A Landing On The Peninsula...

il 19 novembre, 2013
On board the MS Fram

The beauty, the desolation, the reality of the cold and the wet...this morning's cruise on Paradise Bay was extraordinary...a picture that I hold deep within me...an Antarctic experience that I thought was my last. And then, after lunch, came the announcement that the clearing skies had made it possible for the captain to enter Neko Harbor, the entryway to the Antarctic Peninsula, later this afternoon.

 

Visiting Antarctica has been on my “Bucket List” for quite some time and there I was hiking in the snow, “visiting” with gentoo penguins, taking pictures, making snow angels...and yes, it was on the peninsula...my feet in their high rubber waterproof boots walking on this cold and icy continent. I felt compelled to kiss the snow and utter a prayer of thanks...and then I just inhaled as much as I could, letting the emotion of the moment fill my heart. It was with regret that I left, but the image, the joy, the splendor will be with me always and remind me of just how lucky I am.

                                                  

Yes...I'm in Antarctica!


One last photo - Thanks to all who share the memory with me...

 

 

Paradise Bay And A Moment Out Of Time...

Il19 novembre 2013
On board the MS FRAM

 

There was lots of floating ice on Paradise Bay so a landing this morning was not possible; instead we all got into the polar circle boats for a short cruise. How does one write about an almost “otherworldly” experience? Surrounded by glaciers on all sides and delighting in the “crunch” sounds of ice as we traveled over it, it was one of those National Geographic moments; I had seen the documentaries and studied the photos, but nothing could have fully prepared me for the sheer beauty and splendor that I was privileged to see.
                                                 

We had to wear special thermal suits to stay warm.

 

Polar Circle Boat

Paradise Bay

Paradise Bay

Paradise Bay with the mainland in the distance - Almirante Brown, a former Argentine station

Paradise Bay

Paradise Bay...And yes, it felt like paradise...

 

Snowing In Antarctica...

Il 18 novembre, 2013
Cruising the Antarctic waters

With each of our landings, the expedition crew has told us how lucky we've been with the weather...well, reality set in this morning and whether we will even be able to land later today is questionable. The winds are high and the snow is falling and getting heavier the farther south we go. Our first scheduled landing on Cuverville Island has been scrapped and we can only wait and see what happens later in the day. That being said, there's a lovely relaxed feeling on Deck 7; people are reading, playing cards, and visiting while the layer of snow outside the Observation Deck continues to increase.

                                                      

And Then There Were Icebergs...

Il 17 novembre, 2013
Cruising the Antarctic waters

Spotted my first “truly” Antarctic iceberg at 4:00 am this morning; a tabular iceberg, somewhat rectangular in shape, formed when a chunk of ice breaks off from an ice shelf. (This is in contrast to icebergs formed when pieces of glacier break away.) We are headed to Half Moon Island, home to thousands of chinstrap penguins, so named because they have a black line under their chins that resembles the strap of a cap. The crescent-shaped island is 1.2 miles long and, from its southern end, we'll get a good view of the mountains of nearby Livingston Island plus a close-up view of the wildlife-South Polar Skuas, Antarctic Terns, Kelp Gulls, Black-bellied Storm Petrels and Cape Petrels (to name a few.)

                                    

 

 

Later on...

How to describe the majestic beauty of Antarctica? A place pristine, unspoiled, graciously beckoning and forbidding at the same time, a showcase of white snow never touched by a human hand, a plethora of wildlife who have lived and died on this very cold and windy continent since the beginning of time...

 

                                                        

 

 

I am trying to process my being here, to remind myself to be “present” for each moment, but the grandeur is just too great to fully absorb; it's magic and so much more.

Half moon Island

Walking amongst the Chinstrap penguins this afternoon was absolute joy; just no other way to describe it...

                                             

Getting Colder...

Il 16 novembre, 2013
On board the MS Fram

The temperature is clearly dropping and the wind is blowing. I woke up this morning to see snow on the deck; a perfect opportunity for a work-out in the gym and a sauna before breakfast. There is a sense of excitement on the ship as we get closer to Antarctica; to see, to touch, to experience the majesty...this is why we came...to be a part of the magic..

                                           

In Honor Of Sir Ernest Shackleton And The Whales Of Grytviken...

Il 14 novembre, 2013
South Georgia Island

Grytviken

We are sailing southwest on the way down to Antarctica after having spent the morning at Grytviken, the first whaling station in Antarctic waters, founded by Carl Anton Larson in 1904. The weather has been absolutely beautiful these past few days; the water, a rich shade of blue, is very calm and the sun is shining brightly, the snow-covered mountain tops regal and lightly dusted with clouds. So that we won't get complacent, the staff reminds us daily that we are very lucky and not to expect the sunshine to continue. We will see just how long our luck holds out...

Grytviken is a fascinating place; remnants of the whaling station predominate the area and scattered about are fur and elephant seals. Not being observant enough about the direction I was headed, I came within inches of walking into one of these animals which would undoubtedly have caused quite a ruckus for the seal and some injuries for me. Luckily, one of my fellow passengers warned me just in time...always good to have someone looking out for you!

The Whaler's Church, still in use, is open for visiting, as well as a museum with a display of the whaling, sealing, exploring and natural histories of the island and a cemetery, the final resting place of Sir Ernest Shackleton. And then there's a gift shop...the last chance to buy a souvenir until we get back to Argentina.
                                                                     

South Georgia Island - Our Adventure Continues...

Il 13 novembre, 2013
South Georgia Island

How to describe the pristine beauty of South Georgia? This is, clearly, a spot whose description is limited by words and even by photos. Snow-capped mountains, glaciers, icebergs, and a rugged coastline are a glorious feast for the eyes and the heart. South Georgia Island is within the Antarctic Convergence, but outside the limit of yearly sea ice so it is an ideal spot to call home and millions of penguins, seals, and seabirds do just that.

                                                  

MS Fram

                                           

Fortuna Bay
Our landing this morning at Fortuna Bay was flawless; a wonderful omen for what was to come. And come they did! Everywhere we looked there were penguins; some resting on the ground, others walking, and some marching to and from the water, their backs held straight, seemingly oblivious to the enchanted blue-jacketed humans whose cameras kept shooting. At the far end of the beach were hundreds and hundreds of king penguins with their chicks. It takes 14 months from a chick's hatching to the shedding of its brown coat and the ones we saw were a bit under a year; just a few more months and they will be on their own. And then there were the seals...clusters of fur seals sleeping in the sunshine and scattered about were the enormous elephant seals from whom we kept our distance. Yes, these very large and very heavy creatures, if agitated, will let you know...and they are faster than we are!
                                 

King Penguins

Wonder what he's thinking?...

  

King Penguins and their Chicks


                                                                     

"I'm hungry!!!"

Out for a Stroll...

Elephant Seal

Fur Seal



Living in Harmony...
 

 Stromness

There are three deserted whaling stations on Stromness Bay, although one cannot enter them for safety reasons. I felt a sense of desolation at this landing and tried to imagine what it would have been like to live and work here year after year, especially through the long dark, cold winter months. The whaling industry in South Georgia was started in the early 1900's and ended in December, 1965 when the last harbor was closed down. In total, 175,250 whales were processed - the blubber was initially used just for oil, but later on, soap and cosmetics as well, and the meat eaten by the men living in the whaling stations.

King penguins were seen here and there; Stromness is not their permanent home and it's not quite certain how they got here; most likely, they swam over to check out a new spot and will perhaps go back to their home rookeries at some point. Courting is taking place; females letting the interested males know that they will soon be ready to mate... a fascinating behavior to watch.

Elephant and fur seals lay on the beach and all seemed oblivious to our presence. The elephant seals are quite a sight; hard to believe how quickly they move considering how much they weigh!

                                                         

Cruising the Scotia Sea...

Il 12 e 13 novembre, 2013
At sea...

A couple of days at sea as we travel to South Georgia Island. There are lectures all day long and movies at night so the hours are busy between meals...and yes, there is plenty to eat on board! This is not a trip for the faint of heart; one does not need to be the intrepid explorer, but a thirst for adventure is critical. The seas are sometimes rocky, although we have been very fortunate so far and I have only needed Dramamine on a couple of days, and the island hikes have required stamina and, certainly, a love of penguins!
 

It was a foggy morning, but the sky is clearer now and, as I write this, there is a lecture being presented on Antarctic seals. The education on board has been impressive; the expedition leaders are all wonderfully “in the know” and eager to share their knowledge. Earlier today we listened to a mandatory briefing informing us of the protocols set up by the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators. Safeguarding this pristine and unspoiled part of the world is critical and only a limited number of people are allowed onto the island at one time. All equipment( backpacks, tri-pods, boots, etc.) is vacuumed and cleaned according to a biosecurity checklist and no food may be brought with us.
 

We are cruising the Scotia Sea and the seabirds are a plenty. Often they follow the ship in search of food as the engines churn up the sea waters. We are in what's called the Antarctic Convergence where the warmer waters of the north meet up with the colder, more dense, and less saline southern waters. The colder water sinks below the warmer and this mixing results in many nutrients brought to the surface so wildlife is abundant. In total, tens of millions of breeding penguins, seals, and seabirds inhabit South Georgia (land, water and air); as long as the weather conditions are favorable, we are scheduled to make our first two landings tomorrow and will see some of them!

 

 

A Day in Port Stanley...

Il 10 novembre, 2013
Port Stanley – The Falkland Islands

Port Stanley, situated at the eastern end of East Falkland, is the flavor of Great Britain. The houses are Victorian, the pubs are inviting places for beer drinking with friends, the fish and chips are very tasty, and the climate (physical, mental, and emotional) is pure British! It was chilly and windy with a bit of rain when three of us decided to walk to town, rather than take the shuttle bus, but by the time we got to the cathedral, the sun was out, if only for a while. It was Remembrance Day in the Falklands and soldiers and veterans gathered together after the service for a parade down the main street. Wreaths were laid at the memorial for the British soldiers who died in the 1982 conflict and I had the opportunity to talk about the Falklands War with a couple of locals at the pub.

And now...for dessert...
On the way back to the ship, we stopped off at “Bitter Sweet” a delightful cafe owned by Julie, whose family has lived in Port Stanley for five generations, and Leslie who hails from Canada and has made a seven year commitment to live in Port Stanley. Scones, muffins, and cookies baked fresh daily and handmade chocolates made with organic fair trade products tempt the palate. The truffles, chocolate penguins, and assorted shapes and sizes of sweets are all for the offering...I can personally say that the ginger truffle was divine! I should have eaten more!