Our First Lions...

Il 20 giugno

Elephant Valley Lodge

Botswana

In order to get back into Botswana, we had to once again go through two border crossings; lots of papers to fill out and stamps in our passports. After a lovely lunch at the Chobe Safari Lodge, we were driven to the Elephant Valley Lodge, located in the heart of the Kasane Forest, adjacent to the Chobe National Park. There are twenty Meru-style tents, beautifully furnished with private showers and bathroom areas and most are overlooking a waterhole which is a constant source of animal activity. The Chobe region is home to the largest population of wild elephants in the world and, after checking in and getting settled, the five of us got on the jeep in the hot afternoon sun.

www.anthology.co.za       

Since we had already seen literally hundreds of elephants plus great numbers of giraffes, zebras, cape buffalo, impalas, kudu, sable antelope, wildebeest, crocodiles, hippos, and baboons galore, our main goal on this drive was to find some cats. It was towards the end of the drive when we arrived at what seemed like an obscure watering hole that there, lounging about and relaxing in the afternoon heat, were eight lions-female adults and juveniles and a couple of cubs-male and female. We weren't very far away from them and Zambo, our fearless guide, kept repostitioning our vehicle to get us even closer. Watching the lions was memerizing and got even more exciting when a few sable antelope approached the watering hole. Two of the lions got in stalking position and it only would have been a matter of time before they attacked. We held our breaths in fascination as the antelope, keenly sensing danger, ultimately took off into the hills. It was then getting close to curfew and we needed to get out of the park quickly so Zambo “floored it” and we held on tightly, the wind and dust blowing in our faces, as the jeep seemingly flew over the dirt roads. We celebrated at dinner (roast kudu steaks outside under the stars, our table facing the waterhole) with plenty of wine and Italian chocolates; a dessert that I just happened to have in my suitcase. Hyenas howled and an owl looked down upon us...to say that it was an extaordinary day in Botswana doesn't come close...

Crocodiles, Hippos, and Birds on the Chobe River...

Il 19 giugno

Chobe River, Namibia

To the naked eye, the Chobe River is a gentle, inviting body of water that beckons one to take a dip. This would be a big mistake, however, because the Chobe River is full of crocodiles that are very ready to eat anything they come across. We were given very clear directions not to dangle any part of our bodies in the water while we were in the tender boats; this took on much significance as five of us rode across the river on that first bird-watching expedition. Crocodiles were sun-bathing along the shore, looking very innocent and sleepy until our approaching boat startled them. Coming close to one of these creatures and seeing his teeth as he took off at great speed for the water was one of those “Oh my gosh” experiences and any thought I might have had of just feeling the water, if only for a moment,was readily forgotten. The hippos, as well, were out, groups of them wallowing in the mud. There is nothing like hearing the sounds of hippos, especially during the night or at sunrise when the “world' is silent; it's a reminder of how small we are in the universe.

The birds of Africa are some of the most beautiful creatures to fly in the air. Either large and majestic or small and delicate, they are symbolic of a continent that is powerful and fragile at the same time. Watching male birds bring reeds to the nest so that the females could continue building or seeing the chicks poking out their heads in order to be fed introduced me to the joys and intrigue of bird-watching through a pair of binnoculars.

A Riverboat on the Chobe...

Il 18,19,20,21 giugno

Chobe River, Namibia

After a final morning game drive in Zimbabwe (on the 18th), we went by bus to the Botswana border. Clearing immigration, we then got on a small boat for a short ride on the Chobe River to a second border crossing so that we could enter Namibia where we would be spending most of our time. The Zambezi Queen is a luxurious river boat with fourteen suites, each having a balcony so that sunrise and sunset can be seen from the privacy of one's room or upstairs in the lounge/bar/dining area. I cannot say enough words of praise for the boat, the service, the dining, and for all who work on this “floating paradise.” Joy at the bar remembered that I enjoy sparkling wine before dinner, Rosemary made sure my suite was perfectly made up, Bernard taught me about birds and the history of Namibia, and Vincent pointed out constellations in a night sky so full of stars that its beauty cannot be described with words

www.zambeziequeen.com

There is nothing like a sunrise or sunset seen from the Chobe River. Sounds of animals, oblivious to anything but their own needs, provide a musical backdrop. There is a pervasive stillness in the air and a magic that is only found in Africa.

Video is in Namibia, not Botswana as recorded.

An African Safari in Hwange...

Il 14, 15, 16, 17, e 18 giugno

Hwange Reserve

Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe

Our morning game drives started at 7:00 am in the chilly air. We were all dressed in layers of clothing plus fleece jackets, scarves, and gloves, but, once in the jeeps, we still needed blankets to cover us. With my binoculars hanging down from my neck and my digital camera primed to aim and shoot, I was ready for an African Safari...and what a thrill every drive was... whether in the reserve or in the park.

The animals tell it better than I can...

Our First Day At Hwange...

Il 14 giugno

Hwange Safari Lodge, Zimbabwe

There was a last minute change in our inn which had some ups and downs for all of us, but the lodge has quite an interesting history which has given me a story to share. Originally, it was privately owned, but when President Mugabe took over the country it came under his control. Members of his staff and military were making themselves comfortable in this remote spot located in the Hwange Reserve when one of his advisers, sitting on the grounds of the lodge, shot at and killed an elephant while he was drinking at the watering hole. It was due to the concern of one of the “locals” who named the reserve “The President's Herd” that Mugabe even learned of it and and what had happened that he took an interest in his property. He outlawed hunting and, eventually, turned the lodge over to the original owning company.

All the rooms look out upon the reserve (the building is fenced in) and, it was with glee, that we all saw our “first” elephants in the wild gathering at the watering hole.

The pictures tell the story...

My Ride on Emily...

Il 13 giugno

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

I've always loved elephants; there's something about their size, their lumbering walk, and the way they take care of their young that leaves me fascinated. So, it was with great excitement that I climbed up on Emily and, along with a few friends, took a 45 minute stroll through the grasslands. Of course, Emily is trained to be gentle and obey on command so there was no danger in riding her, but just the idea of sitting on an elephant in Zimbabwe and having her “just for me” was one of those “WOW” experiences...another truly African adventure.

Flight of a Lifetime...

Il 12 guigno
Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

Those who know me well are keenly aware of my fear of heights. It goes far beyond a case of nerves and, on more than one occasion, I have had to“will” my almost catatonic body to move; so great is my phobia. So I had no intention of getting into a helicopter and flying over Victoria Falls...that is, until Lea and Charles talked me into it, promising to do whatever it took to keep me feeling safe. I owe my“Flight of a Lifetime” to this lovely couple from North Carolina who, with their friendship and support, empowered me to have my grandest adventure yet.

Arriving at the airfield, the level of excitement our group of four experienced only increased when we saw the helicopter revving up the engines. I sat up front next to the pilot and once on board, we were in the air within moments. The view of the falls from above was sheer magic and everywhere one looked evoked another “ahh...” There was never any fear; only a feeling of thankfulness and awe in the presence of greatness.

   

Victoria Falls - Majesty and a Shower...

Il 11 giugno

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

After a 90 minute flight we arrived at the Victoria Falls Airport and quickly got on line to purchase our double entry visas. After that and a greeting by some native dancers, it was a short drive to the Victoria Falls Hotel for a three night stay at this very stately British retreat where the spray of the Falls could be seen in its full glory and the manicured grounds were a feast for the eye. We settled in and had a chance to unpack and then it was a quick trip to the entrance of the Victoria Falls park. We were given full-length rain ponchos to keep us dry, or at least to keep us from getting completely soaked from the spray which is like a downpour when the wind blows at just the right angle.

My words will not do justice to describing the grandeur and majesty of Victoria Falls. Their sheer magnitude and awe-inspiring power left us giddy and the rainbow that
welcomed us lit up the sky with its magical presence.

Out Of Africa. - The Journey Begins...

Il 10 giugno

Johannesburg, South Africa

Two days in Johannesburg (often referred to as Joburg) can hardly qualify me to write about the city, although 48 hours here has definitely made an impression that I feel comfortable in sharing. I'm staying in a lovely hotel in the suburb of Sandton, a relatively affluent area where the homes are electronically gated; this is a protection against frequent break-ins and also a requirement of the insurance companies who will not insure unprotected homes. At any rate, it's quite lovely and the hotel is above an upscale shopping mall with designer boutiques and Woolworth's, a gourmet food shop and restaurant where the prices are higher than in your average market and the roast chicken sandwiches delicious.

Such was my introduction to this country that I first studied when, as a high school student, I read “Cry, the Beloved Country” by Alan Paton, a story about the apartheid policy in South Africa. Years later, I watched the news broadcasts when Nelson Mandela gained his freedom after 27 years in prison and when the apartheid policies that controlled the country for so many years were finally abolished. I remember the riots in Soweto and watching my television screen capture the event, but I was a spectator and could commiserate only from afar. As an American who has never lacked for anything, I never really understood poverty, not that I do now, for my belly is never crying from the pain of hunger and I have never known a night where I didn't have a bed to sleep in and a roof over my head.

So how do I describe a place that I've known for only two days where what I have primarily seen is a clear demarcation between the have's and the have-nots. (I fear that whatever I write will not be an adequate description.) Johannesburg is vibrant with commercial growth and urban development, full of enthusiastic fervor for its national sports teams, and pulsing with the energy of a city working hard to right the wrongs of the past. It is a “sea” of contrasts from the beautiful tree-lined streets of the affluent communities to Soweto with its streets of shanties and tin shacks and government housing.

The Hector Pieterson Museum in Soweto is a collection, preservation, and interpretation of the history and legacy of the 1976 national uprisings; those days when rioting, fear, and death filled the streets of this community. Since then there have been changes in the educational system (English, not Afrikaans is the language of instruction) and there are opportunities for the economic and social advancement for these people who were forced to give up their homes and move to the outskirts of town. Progress, however, does not happen quickly, although our tour guide was positive and enthusiastic about the changes in Soweto; her ready smile was in marked contrast to some of the teenagers who were clearly observing us in a way that left me uncomfortable. One of the problems, also, that the country is facing is the increasing number of illegal immigrants coming in. Having no place to live, they are contributing to the population living on the streets or under the make-shift tin roofs.

My time in Johannesburg was really a starting point for my trip, rather than a place to “play tourist.” I left the city with a better understanding of its history, a greater appreciation of how far it has come, economically and socially, and an awareness of the challenges that still lie ahead.

La Belle France...

Il 7 giugno

Frauenberg, France

I've spent the last six days in eastern France visiting with my dear friend, Janine, who has lived and worked here for many years. She is, in effect, a “native” and experiencing just a bit of her daily life has been a treat. Frauenberg is a small village in Alsace-Lorraine, the region in France that borders Germany. It's one of those places in the country that the tourist wouldn't visit, retaining that lovely feel of a small, “untainted” haven whose citizens greet one another in the street. It is in Sarreguemines, the neighboring town, where people go to do their shopping and take care of business. For me, that meant a trip to the pharmacy, the hairdresser, a local bar/cafe and some of the many charming restaurants that are found there.

Frauenberg is, actually, in Lorraine, although these last few days I've seen much of Alsace as Janine drove to Mulhouse on Sunday, giving me an opportunity to see this beautiful and lush forested area. It rained heavily a good part of the way, but that didn't dampen our spirits as we traveled along country roads surrounded by verdant foliage, sloping hills, and vineyards. Walking the cobble-stoned streets of Ribeauville and then Riquewihr, whose houses are built within the city wall, was a journey back to the Middle Ages. Monday began with a trip to the automobile museum where the collection of the Bugatti's was worth the price of admission; let alone all the other vintage cars from the early buggies to the chauffeured Rolls Royce of yesteryear. Colmar, another medieval town, was next on our itinerary; a charming, almost bustling site where local people live and work, besides it being a tourist destination.

On Tuesday morning, Janine and I walked to the outskirts of town where the old and abandoned Jewish cemetery is found. Tombstones, some crumbling, covered the hill and high weeds covered most of the tombs. It was unsettling to see the condition of the cemetery, although I was told that once a year, right before the Jewish High Holy Days, a gardener comes to clean it up. (I returned the next day to spend some quiet time there and to say the Kaddish prayer for those who have long been buried; some from the 1800's.) Driving into Sarreguemines in the afternoon, we found the synagogue, built in 1959, long after the original one was destroyed. We had the very good fortune to meet Monsieur Levi who was there to do some “synagogue business” and he unlocked the door and invited us in. This lovely and funny man showed us around and pointed out the plaque honoring the memory of those families who were deported by the Nazis. I also learned that before Napolean, Jews were not allowed to live in the cities so they moved to the outlying villages...which is why there is a cemetery and a synagogue, or the remains of one, in each of the villages in the region.

Wednesday was my last day and what a perfect way to end my stay....a bit of shopping, couscous for lunch ( I haven't eaten authentic couscous with all the trimmings since my college days in Paris!), and foie gras and white wine for dinner...this visit was, indeed, a memorable treasure. Merci, Janine.