Ciao Barcelona...

Il 26 aprile

Barcelona

It's early in the morning at this very quiet and calm Barcelona Airport; just had a Croissant Paris and a Cafe Con Leche, the best breakfast I've had in weeks. It's not that the food at the hotels or on board the boat were not good; on the contrary, the sumptuous buffets were filled with everything you could imagine. It's just that the perfect breakfast for me is strong European coffee with hot milk and a warm flaky pastry...which is why I do well living in Italy. Except for, perhaps, eating dinner a bit later than I would normally, the eating style of the Italians meshes well with mine.

My last day in Barcelona yesterday could not have been better. Beginning with a walk through the market place, possibly the best I've ever seen. Whether produce, meat, poultry, fish, breads and pastries, or snacks, the food was clean, fresh, and displayed with “military precision.” It must take hours just for the set-up and I hope that my pictures rightfully captured some of it.

Leaving the market, I wandered through the “Gothic Area” of Barcelona; this oldest part of the city with its narrow streets and alleyways hearkens back to a time long ago when fast cars and processed foods could not have been imagined. Yes, I did see Starbucks, McDonald's, and KFC on the wide tree-lined boulevards of the city, but I just turned the other way.

Time for lunch and I found myself at the same tapas bar I had eaten at the day before. Yesterday's meal was a slice of prosciutto on a crunchy roll and a small bottle of Cava (Spanish sparkling white wine.) Enjoying my meal, who should I meet but Steve and Marcia from Portland who, along with a couple of friends, had just gotten off the Holland America and were in town for three days. I told them about some of the things I had done, although they had been here before and probably knew the city better than I did. This is one of the reasons why I love to travel; you never know where you'll be when you find yourself in a conversation with someone you never would have met otherwise.

After lunch I walked some more and then just had to have a coffee ice cream cone at Farggi; creamy and rich, it was an ice cream lover's taste of paradise. Decided to try the metro which was an easy way to get back to the neighborhood near the hotel and then it was time to finish packing, try out the hotel swimming pool, and get ready for the group's farewell dinner. The food and wine were lovely (crème brulee for dessert) and then it was a lot of good-byes and wishing my travel companions a safe trip home.

As for me....tonight I'll be sleeping in my “own” bed in Assisi in the charming apartment I rent when I'm there. I can fully unpack, and then tomorrow, I'll do a couple of loads of laundry and go to the mercato. Life is good...

TAPAS & BEER

Gran Via Corts Catalanes, 640

08007 Barcelona

A Sunny Day in Barcelona Is Not a Guarantee...

Il 24 aprile

Barcelona

Today was one of those “reality check” days when all apparently goes right with the world and then something happens to remind you of your human frailty and that it's fate, luck, the energy of the universe, or a combination of all three that truly keeps one safe and sound. The day started with a lovely tour of El Poble Espanyol (The Spanish Village.) Originally built for the 1929 International Exhibition, it is a wonderful way to learn about the regions of Spain and their particular architecture. Basically a small town with houses built in the style of a locality and historical period, no one lives in The Spanish Village; instead, the buildings are each artisan shops where one may purchase handicrafts and pieces of art all locally made. It's quite a charming place and very interesting for all ages.

(We had a terrific guide named Albert Planas and I'm including his web site where you can find a link to his travel blog....lots of great ideas and information.)

www.quality-tours-Spain.com

I got off the bus while we were still on the Montjuic Mountain as I wanted to walk down and enjoy the panoramic views and the scenery; lots of trees in full bloom and the sun was shining. I walked down to La Rambla and did lots of people-watching. Barcelona is an international destination and one hears languages from all over the world. I bought three scarves (If I'm wearing jeans, a white t-shirt, and a vibrant scarf, then I'm very happy.) and found a tapas bar for lunch. A Greek salad, mini Spanish potato omelet, and one beer later, I was feeling great and thinking how much fun I was having just walking along in this terrifically busy city where the traffic is on par with Rome and never seems to let up. It was at that moment that I heard a horrific crash and looked to my left to see a motorcyclist down in the round-about. It was a head-on collision and the cyclist was in bad shape. I felt compelled to stay for the almost hour it took to extricate the man and get him into an ambulance. (Actually, there were two ambulances, two fire trucks, and several police cars.) It was one of those times in my life when I just needed to pray for someone and send forth the energy that I was there rooting for him. It was a sobering afternoon and even now I picture the crash and think about the motorcyclist and remind myself to be grateful for each day.

It was a long walk back to the hotel (several hours because I kept going in the wrong direction), but the evening helped to restore some balance as I had dinner once again with JoAnn and Ralph, a terrific couple I have just gotten to know. Bull fighting is outlawed in Barcelona and the arena has been converted into a very modern, posh shopping mall with lots of restaurants on the top floor and a great view of the city. It's in walking distance from our hotel which made it convenient to get to. So another fine meal, a bottle of wine...and then, of course, we had to get in some shopping...

www.angrup.com  Mussol Arenas

Ahh...Barcelona...

Il 23 aprile

Barcelona

A 5:00 am wake-up call and a quick coffee and then it was a short bus ride to the Lisbon Airport; lots of people, but well-organized and calm. The flight to Barcelona on TAP airlines was uneventful, which is always appreciated, and after being served sandwiches and wine on the plane, we arrived in Barcelona. (Was 9:40 am too early to drink?)

It didn't take long to reach Hotel Fira Palace, my lodging for the next three nights. Having some time before the afternoon city tour, I explored a bit of the neighborhood in search of a tapas bar. Not finding one, I settled for the local bakery where the aromas just pulled me in. Today is Saint Georges Day (He is the patron saint of Catalonia) and also the Day of the Book and it is customary for men to give women a rose and women to give men a book in exchange. I don't know how the custom started and if it's a reflection of women wanting their men to read more, but, in any event, I saw a number of flower sellers with pails filled with roses. Now, getting back to the bakery where I purchased some walnut bread baked with cheese, (a traditional food eaten on this day), and a large cookie and then found a grocery store where finding a cold Spanish beer was my goal. When I told the owner that I wanted local beer, he suggested Moritz, a Barcelona staple since 1856. Even though low in alcohol, I am now feeling the effects of an early rising and my lunch. It's a good thing that there is a scheduled tour; otherwise, I might not make it out of my room, which is quite lovely and very inviting.

Later...

Barcelona is a big and very beautiful city and today, because of the holiday and most people not working, it was filled with people. La Rambla (a main street) was a wall of humanity, filled with book vendors and flower sellers and what seemed like thousands of men and women, boys and girls out and about making their purchases; how wonderful to have a day devoted to the joy of reading literature (a celebration of the lives of Shakespeare and Cervantes who died on the same date) and to chivalry (St. George slaying the dragon.) Tradition says that from the dragon's blood arose a rose which is how the custom of giving this flower originated.

Our tour started with a drive through tree- shaded streets and past the Botanical Gardens to a view point where all of Barcelona and the Mediterranean Sea spread out before us; then down to the marina and experiencing the architectural beauty of the city. Facades with sculpture and intricately carved wrought-iron balconies abound.

Our main stop was at the church of La Sagrada Familia. In 1882 the foundation stone of this massive edifice was laid; initially designed by the architect Franciso de Paula del Villar, the work was taken over by Antoni Gaudi a year and a half later and is still going on today according to Gaudi's models. I am at a loss to describe the size, splendor, and intricacy of the innovative architecture...the church has become a landmark of Barcelona and an artistic and spiritual symbol of Catalonia.

On the way back to the hotel we passed by several homes that had been designed by Gaudi. Playful and whimsical are the two words that come to mind when I try to describe the houses; again, just something that has to be seen.

Dinner was with friends at a lovely restaurant where we ate and drank, talked and laughed. Our waiter treated us to two rounds of after dinner liqueurs; the first, he said, was a digestive, and the second was for getting a woman's phone number. Ah...these Spanish men...

From Porto to Cascais and Two Stops Along the Way...

Il 22 aprile

Cascais, Portugal

The boat arrived back in Porto on Friday afternoon so there was plenty of time to explore the city once again...with the group as part of a tour and then, leaving the bus, I set off on my own. I need to “feel” a city by myself; to walk the streets and go into the shops, to talk to the people who live there in whatever language works best...sometimes verbal and sometimes with hand gestures. I didn't have a map with me, but I knew that I needed to head down to the water, cross the bridge, and then stroll on over to the boat. I found myself in neighborhoods that the “tourist” would probably not see and went into a local market looking for chocolate made in Portugal. The young woman who owned the shop spoke only Portuguese, but after some original communication between the two of us, I succeeded in buying a bar of “local” dark baking chocolate which will be used to make brownies when I get home.

We left the boat yesterday morning after a truly wonderful week. The crew was superb and, when talking with Bastos (my favorite waiter), he shared that everyone working on board is Portuguese and comes from the Douro River Valley or nearby so it is like being with family; this was felt by all of us.

On the way south, we stopped at Coimbra, a charming university town, in spite of the rain, and then Fatima, the famous pilgrimage site where in 1917 three young girls are said to have see a vision of the Virgin Mary. Millions visit the site every year to pray and light candles.

Arriving in Cascais in early evening, we checked into the Villa Italia Hotel and Spa; words cannot describe the elegance and beauty of this spot and the fabulous suite I was given for two nights! The Estoril Coast is known as the Portuguese Riviera and from 1939 until the 1950's, when over 20,000 foreigners entered Portugal because of its neutrality during the Second World War, many exiled monarchs, diplomats, artists, and intellectuals called Cascais and Estoril as their home.

Among those who came to this charming city by the sea was Umberto II of Italy, exiled in June of 1946 after reigning for only one month, after Italians voted to restore their Republic. The Villa D'Este, the residence of the Pino Basto family, well-known in Portugal, was given to the King to call his home, which he did for eleven years. The development of a plot of land next door to the Villa D'Este was financed by a group of monarchists who wanted the exiled King to have a permanent home; the King named his new residence the “Villa Italia.” King Umberto II was a popular and very visible foreign resident; his presence is felt in this lovely city and this morning I walked on the Avenida Rei Umberto De Italia, a stretch running along the beach. I suppose that I've been especially fascinated by this place because I saw the King's grandson, “il principe” at an olive mill in Foligno, Italy in 2010. I was told that he had played a part in getting permission for the exiled “royal family” to return to Italy so now, for me, the picture of this piece of Italian history, is more complete.

I opted out of the city tour this morning so I could have a leisurely breakfast and then take a “power walk” and some “alone time.” The museums are all open on Sunday and are free to the public so I took advantage of this and visited a couple of former noble homes and the lighthouse. A wonderful time was had and I returned to the hotel in time for spa treatments. The elegance of the spa and the care shown to its guests are incomparable and my massage and facial were the perfect way to end my stay in Portugal. As for this 5 star Hotel...it is on my list for a return visit for longer than two nights.www.hoteisreal.com

Tonight is our “farewell dinner”; some of us will be going to Barcelona tomorrow while the rest of the group heads back to the USA. I leave Portugal with wonderful memories and appreciation for the physical beauty of this country, but even more for the warmth of its people.

The Warmth of the Portuguese...

Il 19 aprile

Castelo Rodrigo

The medieval town of Figueria Castelo Rodrigo (current population of 65) was this morning's destination. After another drive through the mountains, with lots of olive and almond trees on the terraced hillside slopes, we arrived at this charming spot of cobble-stoned streets and stone houses. We stopped to see the church and the ruins of the castle and walked a bit, although the wind was fierce and very cold. What a perfect reason to go into a small shop and buy a thick sweater, made by the owner herself. Although she spoke only Portuguese (I have learned a few words), it was easy enough to communicate the size I needed and which sweater I wanted to try on. After that stop, I met some others in the group who were all buying sugar-coated almonds (locally made and delicious), plus dried fruit, olive oil, honey, and soap. The almonds and soap are perfect for gift giving and the owner of the store took great pride in wrapping the purchases.

Lunch on board was a buffet (yes, my clothes are getting snug) and I sat with some people I hadn't yet met. One of my great joys in traveling is the human connection and I have learned firsthand that everyone has a story to tell. Today it was Grazia, a delightful woman of European origin who is fluent in Italian and French, with whom I had a lovely conversation in italiano. It was truly “con piacere” (with pleasure) that we shared time together and I look forward to continuing our dialogue.

Dinner this evening was in the rustic town of Pinhao at the Avessada Winery, family-owned for six generations, and a terrific place to dine and enjoy the gracious hospitality of the Portugeuse. There was music and dancing, comraderie, and, of course, wine-tasting. We were 600 meters high in the mountains and, once again, our bus driver demonstrated remarkable skill in navigating very windy and narrow roads. Back on the ship now and it's after midnight. Time for my chocolate mint and some sleep.

Salamanca...in the cold...in the very cold...

Il 18 aprile
Salamanca

Salamanca, located in the center of the Castilla y Leon region of Spain, is a very beautiful city rich in tradition and known for its university, (the oldest in the Iberian Peninsula), its 16^th century cathedral, (built to replace the original 12^th century edifice), and its grand “Plaza Mayor”, formally a site of bull fighting and now the place to congregate with your friends and have a drink in one of its many cafes.

We left the ship about 8:15 this morning and began a two hour drive, crossing into Spain and enjoying a more rugged countryside than we had seen in Portugal. We were told to dress warmly and bring umbrellas, but not one of us was prepared for the bitter cold and biting wind. We had an already scheduled walking tour and the guide did her best to keep us all engrossed, but, to tell you the truth, it was so cold that all we really wanted was for the tour to be over! The city is beautiful and the university and cathedral are, indisputably, two of the highlight sites for me on this trip....and places I would like to return to when it's warm.

We were rewarded with a glorious lunch of paella and lots of wine at a 5 Star Hotel where the mirrored bathrooms (even in the stalls) were a tourist attraction in themselves! Most of the group went back to the boat after lunch, but a few of us decided to brave the cold for an extra hour so we could shop. It turned out to be a positive expedition for me as I found the “bargain store of Salamanca” and bought two pairs of gloves and a pair of socks, all purchased for under 3 euros. The gloves went on before I even left the shop...

The drive back to the ship was uneventful until the bus broke down; it was an hour before we were “rescued”, but we all had a good time conversing and laughing...and it was warm. We got back just in time for dinner-a delicious Portuguese barbeque... and since the boat had moved to dock in Spain, we started with Sangria...All in all, a day to remember that spanned the two countries of the Iberian Peninsula.

The Delights of Portugal...

Il 17 aprile
Portogallo...

I've been in Portugal for a week and have not yet shared anything about this delightful country; not for lack of interest because I am enjoying every moment of my stay here, but because each day has been busy with another adventure and I've had little time to put this experience into written form. I'm in my cabin now cruising through the extraordinary Douro River Valley with its majestic terraced countryside of vineyards and olive trees. We have just arrived at the Pocinho Dam and the boat is rising up through the locks; the passageway is narrow and it feels like it is just wide enough for our vessel to fit through. I have had to turn the light on as the cabin is dark and the many meters of a stone wall have blocked out most of the daylight.

I arrived in Lisbon (Lisboa) last Wednesday morning and enjoyed my stay in this cosmopolitan capital, but it was Oporto (Porto) that captured my imagination. Everywhere one looks in this city of hills, there is something to catch the eye; the architecture is eclectic and it seemed as though each street had something a bit different to offer. There's a wonderful bookstore in town and even though it was closed on the Sunday we were there, I was able to peek inside and see the carved, wooden circular staircase that J.K. Rowling used in the Harry Potter books...and I could feel the magic.

I'm spending a week on the MS Douro Cruiser. This river boat lacks for nothing; the staff is genuinely caring and gracious and the wine flows at dinner. I was never much of a Port drinker, but several lectures and many tastings have changed that...whether tawny or ruby, it's a lovely way to begin or end a meal.

The other evening we had dinner at what used to be a 14^th century monastery and last night, there was a delightful folk music presentation, complete with Fado, the traditional mournful music of Portugal when one sings of lost love or chances missed...alas.sss

This morning we visited the village of Lamego with its Gothic Cathedral and narrow winding streets. Of course, there was a stop at a local cafe for an espresso and the purchase of gourmet chocolate... and tonight is the Captain's Dinner. Eating well and loving every minute!