Driving To The Serengeti...

June, 2015

Tanzania

In the late 19^th century German East Africa was formed and so began European colonialism in what would later be mainland Tanzania. After World War I, the territory came under British rule, being governed separately as Tanganyika and the Zanzibar Archipelago, and, in 1964, a few years after independence was achieved for both of these colonies, they decided to come together and form the United Republic of Tanzania.

A journey to Africa must always be with open eyes and not merely with a, sometimes limiting, western mind-set of the way life should be. This is not to say that the economic, social, health, and political problems in Kenya and Tanzania should be ignored as the needs in this part of the world are in epidemic numbers and reform is desperately needed. One needs to understand, however, the tribal cultures from which today's populations have emerged; the change must begin within African society, not as an imposition from outside. Both countries have mandatory education laws and it was a joy to see children in their uniforms walking along the road going to and from school, but this critical first step is only one of many. In each of these countries, wherever we were, the warmth and graciousness of the local population was clearly felt. I know, I went as a tourist with money to spend, but it wasn't salesmanship that I saw; rather, it was a genuine pride in and love for each country by its citizens. So, yes, as a westerner, my life is vastly different from most of what I saw in Kenya and Tanzania, but that slice of people's lives that I was privileged to have a glimpse of was a reminder that the respect for and appreciation of cultural differences is number one in making the world a better place.

Oldupai Gorge

Anyone traveling to Kenya or Tanzania will, undoubtedly, see and, perhaps meet, members of the Maasai tribe. A pastoral people, whose patriarchal society bases a man's wealth on the number of cattle and children he has, theirs is a fascinating culture, whose traditional way of life is more and more threatened in our modern age. Many projects are underway to help Maasai tribal leaders find the means to preserve their traditions while recognizing the educational needs of their children in this 21^st century. Maasai are now found working in both the public and private sectors and even though many have moved away from their nomadic existence, they will joyfully head back to their villages after work, changing from the required western garb into their traditional clothing.

When traveling to the Serengeti, we passed Maasai men and women, easily recognized by their wearing red Shuka (sheets) wrapped around their bodies (blue, black, striped, and checkered cloth are also worn), walking along the roads, tending their cattle, carrying water jugs on their heads, or simply navigating the hillside on their way back to/from the local village. 

The right of passage from boyhood to the status of junior warrior is a circumcision ceremony, performed without antiseptic, on boys anywhere from 12 years and older, depending upon where they fall in the age-set, the central unit of Maasai society. The boys live on their own in an unprotected village (built by their mothers) during the 3-4 month healing process and remain in black clothing for 4-8 months. These manyattas, lacking any protective barricade, highlight the boys' role of warrior to protect their community.