From Jerusalem to Bethlehem...

September 24

Jerusalem

Today's tour began at the Mount of Olives with stops at Christian holy places- Dominus Flevit (the site of Jesus' weeping over Jerusalem), the Gardens of Gethsemane, and the Church of All Nations. From there we walked through the Old City which is divided into 4 quarters-The Jewish, The Christian, The Armenian, and The Moslem; each “neighborhood” clearly representing the customs and socio-economic status of its inhabitants. Whatever quarter one walks in is a journey in time; each area has a unique story to tell.

Eli's charming wife, Tsila, who we had met on our first day in Tel Aviv, joined us for a traditional Middle Eastern lunch at a local restaurant in the Old City. Before going into the restaurant, an Arab man selling bread walked by and I remarked how much I had loved eating this bread when I lived in Jerusalem. As I had no shekels with me, she kindly bought some for me; the “bagelah” is more or less oval/rectangular in shape, crispy on the outside and covered with sesame seeds with a light, but chewy dough inside. When you buy the bread, you're also given a packet of spices to dip it in. So, between this bread, the falafel, and humus at lunch, served with frozen lemonade (rather like an alcohol-free margarita), I lacked for absolutely nothing! Oh, there was strong coffee and baclava for dessert. Tsila and I sat and talked and I was very much taken by her openness and friendship as we shared stories about our lives.

The afternoon provided a unique experience as we crossed the border into Bethlehem which is under the control of the Palestinian Authority. Eli did not go with us and once there, we were met by a Palestinian guide who took us to the Shepherds' Field and he Church of the Nativity. Driving through Bethlehem was like going to another world as Palestinian flags flew everywhere and Arabic was heard on every street. As I didn't want to miss an opportunity for a political discussion, I quietly asked my guide, who was born and is currently living in Bethlehem, what he thought about “things.” After twice mentioning “Israeli Occupation”, he “pulled back” a bit and told me he could lose his job if he spoke too much, but he would love to buy me a coffee and speak privately. So, while the rest of the group was browsing in the gift shop, I sat on a stoop with him and we talked; or rather, he talked and I listened. He spoke of the limitations on his life in Bethlehem and how different civilizations had lived on the land and “We should all live in peace together and how easy it would be.” It was at that point that I asked him about Hamas and suicide bombers and what did he think of that. His response was a shrug of the shoulders and a “We should all live in peace. This land should be for all of us.” I did mention the refugee camps that were formed after the war because Arab countries would not take in their fellow Arabs and how they have become a “breeding ground” of hatred. To that, he, again, responded with a shrug and a “We should all live in peace.” I knew that further conversation would be pointless so I thanked him for sharing his thoughts and got on the bus. He did invite me to come back to Bethlehem and spend the day with him...