The Falkland Islands - And Lots Of Penguins...

Il 9 novembre, 2013
Westpoint Island – The Falklands

Off the ship shortly after 8:00 am and then on the polar circle boats for another “joy ride” (and these rides have been fun when it isn't showering hail) across the water. Once on shore, we began today's hike (1.5 miles) up and over the island until we saw the sea once again. Confronted at times with bitterly cold winds whipping at us as we “trudged” over the uneven terrain, the journey's reward was a rockhopper penguin rookery. Dozens and dozens of these penguins were gathered together along with black browed albatross; the penguins carefully guarding their eggs and keeping them warm. It was one of those moments that I tried to capture with photos, but no picture can completely capture the emotion of being there - the sounds of the penguins talking to one another and the albatross taking off in flight in front of me – priceless.

Westpoint Island, first settled in 1879, has been in the Napier family since that time. These gracious and warm people served 200 of us warm tea and home-baked desserts before we headed back to the ship.

 

Rockhopper Penguin Rookery

 

Rockhopper Penguins

 

Rockhopper Penguins

Saunders Island – The Falklands

Back to the ship for lunch and a short journey to the island for a 3:00 pm landing...and then what an afternoon we had! A sandy white beach filled with gentoo penguins walking about, in and out of the water, socializing with one another; it was quite the party! Further up on the hillside was a small colony of king penguins with their chicks. The physical statue of this species is something to see, a straight back with ramrod posture and a lovely long neck that rises up into the air when the moment calls for an “ecstatic display” - sometimes signaling male dominance, sometimes communicating with the neighbors, and, sometimes, just an “old-fashioned” mating call!
 

Up on the slope was an enormous colony of rock hopper penguins and one macaroni penguin couple. This species is not usually found on Saunders Island, but being an aggressive type, however these two got there, they were left alone, the female sitting on her egg and the male standing next to her.

 

Gentoo Penguins

 

A Gentoo Penguin Out for a Stroll...

 

King Penguins

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our First Landing...

Il 8 novembre 2013

Carcass Island

After three days at sea and some stormy waters last night and early this morning, it was with enthusiasm that we stepped into the Polar Circle boats for a short ride to land. Carcass Island is in the northwest area of the Falkland Islands archipelago and has only two full time residents who have lived there for over thirty years. After a long, somewhat difficult hike across uneven terrain, we were treated to wonderful homemade pastries and tea/coffee in their home and some genuine Falklands Islands hospitality.
 

The weather here can change within minutes and an expedition party from the ship had to make a “dry-run” to the island to make sure that a landing was even possible. The sun had just come out and the ride over had us skirting the waves and having a great adventure. By the time the boats were heading back to the ship, however, the weather had changed and many of us were pelted with hail and cold wet water...my waterproof pants, jacket, knee-high boots, and gloves plus several layers of t-shirts kept me warm enough, although the temperature will continue to drop the closer we get to Antarctica...and I will need to add more layers.
 

During the hike, I had a chance to see my first penguins...a group of four scurrying up the hillside just a few meters from where I stood. I know there is a chance that I will become a bit blasé about seeing penguins by the time this trip is over, but nothing can mask the excitement of seeing them in the wild the very first time.

 

 

 

 

Antarctica Bound - The Beginning...

Il 5 novembre, 2013
On board the MS Fram

We boarded the ship yesterday morning for what promises to be my greatest adventure yet. I have wanted to visit Antarctica for the past several years; think it started in earnest when I saw “March of the Penguins” and the need to see these fascinating birds was born. There are a bit more than 200 guests on board the MS Fram, a Norwegian expedition vessel, and, for each one of us, there is a particular pull to head south to parts unknown. For me, it's simply a “thirst” for more; for stepping on the Antarctic soil, for feeling the quiet of this ice-covered continent, for seeing the penguins where they live, and for being reminded that we are all just a very small part of a large universe.

The first day on board was one of orientation and an emergency drill when we were instructed on how to put on our bright orange waterproof life vest/suit should there be a problem and we need to leave the ship. A relatively smooth crossing is expected, although we were warned that crossing the Drake Passage will be rough; trying not to think about that as I am already on Dramamine, ginger, and wearing Sea Bands on my wrists!

Soon...

 

In Case of Emergency

 

Il 5, 6, 7 novembre

On board the MS Fram

 

It's been an informative three days with lectures and movies, breathing in the cool south Atlantic air out on deck, and lots of bird-watching. Seabirds are majestic creatures and, with their large wing spans, they catch the wind draft and seemingly without effort glide through the air. We've seen lots of petrels and albatross and, because the seabird goes to land only to mate, his brain is in two sections, one of which closes down while he sleeps while the other section remains alert so that he can continue to fly.

 

This morning was a lecture on the Falkland Islands, our initial stop on land, with emphasis on the 1982 war between Argentina and England over control of the territory. Tomorrow we will leave the ship and get into special boats that will take us to Carcass Island, privately owned by an English couple with whom we will be visiting. Then a hike and our first visit with the local penguins....one could feel the excitement amongst the ship's passengers as we received our safety instructions just a little while ago.

 

Being Fitted for Waterproof Boots

 

Don't Cry For Me Argentina...

Il 3 novembre, 2013

Buenos Aires, Argentina

I arrived in Argentina yesterday and it has been a delightful couple of days. The second largest country in South America and the eighth largest in the world, Argentina has much to offer the wanderlust traveler that I am, and my few days in Buenos Aires is just a tiny taste...enough to pull me back for more. This capital city is found on the banks of the Rio de la Plata, the world's widest river, and has a cosmopolitan European flavor to it. Since many of its residents are of Italian origin and the similarities between Spanish and Italian are plentiful, I have been able to understand bits and pieces of dialogue when spoken to and felt right at home this afternoon sipping a strong espresso and watching shoppers go by.

The weather could not have been more welcoming today and seeing the sights under a blue sky and sunshine made the outing all that more agreeable. The main street of the city (AV. 9 DE JULIO) is a very wide boulevard...spacious and impressive to look at, but requiring vigilance when crossing as the drivers here very much resemble their Italian counterparts...that is to say...when is a red light really red?? One can see the French and Italian influence in the architectural design of the major buildings; the Opera House, for example, one of the most splendid buildings in the city, was designed by an Italian. And of course, one must mention la Casa Rosada (the “Pink Palace”), equivalent to the American White House, where the current president travels to daily by helicopter, and where Evita delivered her famous speech standing on the balcony. (One might also recall seeing Madonna sing “Don't Cry for Me Argentina” while standing on the very same balcony; the only part of the movie filmed in Buenos Aires as there was a bit of controversy here over her playing the part of such a beloved and, yes, also hated, woman in Argentinian history.

Like any big city, Buenos Aires has had its share of social, political, and economic upheavals, but wherever one is in the city, one feels a pulse..whether in the squalor of the shantytown, the urban sophistication of the port area (Puerto Madero), or the quiet elegance of the Recoleta where the international embassies are found.

One cannot visit Buenos Aires without going to see “Tango” performed by professionals. Tonight's show was thrilling- the turns, the twists, the kicks, the speed, and the costumes– sensual, sexy, sometimes mind-boggling, and oozing with Latin passion...a great way to warm the blood. Picture-taking was not allowed so let your imagination create your photo.

The Famous Balcony

La Casa Rosada

Gubbio In The Rain...

Il 29 settembre 2013

Gubbio, Italia

The history of Gubbio hearkens back to the Paleolithic period as evidenced by archaeological finds of prehistoric remnants. In the 3rd-1^st centuries B.C., during pre-Roman times, Gubbio was an important center for the Umbrians and, based on my own observations, this charming walled medieval town still retains a special place of importance in the hearts of its citizens.

Gubbio, like most, if not all, of the mountain towns in Umbria, has had a colorful history marked by periodic church control, hostility with neighboring towns, (in this case it was Perugia), and internal struggles between noble families who wanted dominion and increased power. Within its walls were built an imposing city hall and a Renaissance style Ducal Palace plus an array of palazzos that surround its main piazza. Considered a part of the various republics that controlled what later became the Kingdom of Italy, Gubbio was known for its crafts in ceramics, wood, and ironwork, all of which are in evidence (and on sale) today. As to its cuisine, the “art of eating well” has long held a place in its traditions; I can personally attest to this after a lunch at la Taverna del Lupo where I indulged in an extraordinary meal.

It rained the day my group and I visited, but that didn't spoil anyone's delight; (due to the inclement weather, we couldn't go up in the funicolare so this adventure will have to wait until my next visit.) We began our tour with a visit to the Mausoleum of the Forty Martyrs; a sobering experience and a reminder of the atrocities of World War II. Towards the end of the war, a group of partisans shot and killed a German doctor; an event that had grave repercussions as the Germans lined up and shot a random grouping of 40 innocent civilians. Visiting the mausoleum one comes face-to-face with tragedy and loss as the pictures of the martyrs are on their stones...young men and women and some...members of the same family.

After a quiet visit, we drove to town and met up with Daniela, our lovely guide, who led us up and down the winding streets and through out-of-the-way neighborhoods. This was my third visit to Gubbio and each time there I become even more enchanted with its beauty and charm. The more time I spend in Umbria, the more I appreciate the history of this region and the historical, geographical, and cultural diversity of its many hillside towns.

 

 

Sweet Treats in Assisi...

Il 20 settembre 2013

Assisi

La Pasticceria Sensi, an Assisi landmark since 1969, is my favorite spot for a sweet treat. The main bakery is located just a few minutes from where I live in Assisi and I pass it every time I walk to la Piazza del Comune...it takes discipline to walk by without stopping for a cappuccino and pastry for breakfast! Lucio and Bibi, sons of Stella and Orlando, who established the bakery, have become familiar faces and always greet me with a smile and that wonderful Italian charm! Using only the best ingredients for their delicacies, these two brothers begin creating very early in the morning and can usually be found with a bit of flour on their faces.

My favorite treat is “la rocciata di Assisi”...a type of apple strudel that hearkens back to medieval German baking. Layers of pastry, covered with raisins, walnuts, apples, pine nuts, and almonds...just a few bites with un caffe and I am a very happy person. The recipe is guarded inside the “magical laboratory” of la Pasticceria Sensi (also known as il bar Sensi) so I would never even attempt to create my own version...and that would be a silly thing to do as buying the “perfect piece” is just a short walk away!

Deruta - A Story About Pottery...

Il 22 settembre 2013

The story of Deruta is the story of la ceramica; the pottery of this small Umbrian town is known throughout the world. With soil rich in water and clay, the necessary natural resource was in abundance and, thus, Deruta was the perfect place for such a craft to have its origins. The evolution of Deruta majolica goes back to the twelfth-fourteenth centuries when the pottery was made primarily for daily use - bowls, basins, and pitchers decorated with geometric, floral, and animal patterns and brown in color. In the fifteenth century, yellow, blue, and orange were added; the motifs became more intricate and complicated and the artistry reached its height. Now not only for daily use, the majolica took on a ceremonial tone and exquisite ceramic plates were created with pictures of noblemen or, perhaps that of a bride and groom...a perfect wedding gift! The artists, Giacomo Mancini and Francesco Urbini refined the “lustro” technique and tiles and other decorative objects were then in demand in Umbrian churches. Styles may have changed during the successive years, but the craftsmanship only got better. One can see firsthand the production of Deruta ceramica in the many workshops, studios, and factories found in the town.

My visit to Deruta last Wednesday had a personal touch. When visiting the Antica Fornace Deruta, one of many ancient kilns, I was privileged to meet Giovanni Baiano and his lovely wife and learn, firsthand, the history of this local craft. Giovanni's vast knowledge and boundless enthusiasm made my visit memorable and the story of how he and his American wife met just by chance reinforced my belief that romantic love can happen in the “wink of an eye”...or is it a “turn of the potter's wheel.”

 

www.anticafornacederuta.com

 

 

 

 

Una Avventura In Umbria - #1

il 22 settembre, 2013

I've been back in Assisi for well over a week now and each day I remind myself that I haven't yet posted a blog entry. Am I becoming lazy...or maybe I feel like I've said it all; what more can I write about this place that feels like a second home, that welcomes me each time I arrive, that is so familiar, and yet always has something new for me to discover.
 

These past twelve days have been busy ones for me as I've arranged “una piccola avventura” in Umbria for a group of ten people who will arrive on Wednesday. Although I reserved the lodging a year ago, hired my two Italian guides last May, and had already planned out the itinerary in full, it seems there is always a little bit more to do to ensure that this trip will be something personal and memorable for my guests. So, just to make sure, I ate in several new restaurants this past week which (being a “foodie”) was much fun, so that I felt certain I had selected the eating experiences I would like my group to have. Dining is very important in this country; it is part of the culture here in Italy which is why the opening of “fast-food” establishments is, to me, unfortunate. Granted, one can get a wonderful panino or slice of pizza “per portare via”... but to fully appreciate “la passione italiana” one needs to sit and enjoy a meal...many meals...accompanied by the “requisite” amount of wine.

The weather this week has been glorious with lots to sun to welcome the throngs of tourists who come here from all over the world. With the Pope's arrival in Assisi on the 4^th of October, the Assisani are in a state of expectation. Hundreds of thousands are expected and the security will be unprecedented. Carabinieri and la Polizia are coming from places near and far, as well as the Pope's own security from il Vaticano. In order to even walk on the street (as if one will be able to!), it is required to have a special pass...not just for the visiting tourists, but even for the Assisani. It was necessary to apply “online” and when one of my friends went to pick up her pass, she was told that over 50,000 requests had already come in and that her application for a pass was accepted...but, as of yesterday, she had still not yet been given one. There is not a room to be had in the entire city and I wonder what will happen to the to “very many” who will come here with the expectation of seeing il Papa, but don't have the requisite pass to move about.

The week of the Pope's arrival, my guests will be staying in a villa outside the city walls, but, even so, I am taking them into the countryside, far away from the confusion, however exciting (or not) it might be. And to do this...we must leave the area early in the morning as the streets in and out of the city and in the environs will be closed from 7:00 am to 7:00 pm. Yes, this will be quite the adventure!

Finishing Up In Fiji...

Il 28 dicembre, 2012 – il 1 gennaio, 2013

Fiji

I love tropical places and it was with much excitement that I looked forward to ending my holiday with four days in Fiji. As we flew over the country, I was at first delighted by the lush green verdant mountains, but then struck by patch after patch of what appeared to be dead trees. Such was my initial glimpse of the devastation caused by the December cyclone that ravaged the nation. It's hard to describe the destruction-dead trees reminiscent of winter when there are no leaves and all one sees is brown, palm trees that looked as if they had been beheaded, endless patches of dried grass, homes with their roofs blown off or falling over on their sides. Seeing Fiji like this this was a reality check...paradise is not a forever thing...

The positive spirit of the Fijians is contagious...nowhere have I ever met people more warm, friendly, and gracious. Even though I did not get to experience the white coral beaches and azure lagoons in their finest splendor, my stay was memorable...from the South Sea Orchid Garden and a performance by a local choral group, a visit to a neighborhood fruit and vegetable market, shopping for coconut oil and a pareo, New Year's Eve with its two mojitos and hours of dancing, not to mention an evening swim with my friend, Lea, to a New Year's Day sail with glorious snorkeling, a tasty barbecue lunch, and an outdoor massage looking at the water...it was a precious and wonderful four days.