Friday, November 1, 2013

Gubbio In The Rain...

Il 29 settembre 2013
Gubbio, Italia

The history of Gubbio hearkens back to the Paleolithic period as evidenced by archaeological finds of prehistoric remnants. In the 3rd-1st centuries B.C., during pre-Roman times, Gubbio was an important center for the Umbrians and, based on my own observations, this charming walled medieval town still retains a special place of importance in the hearts of its citizens.

Gubbio, like most, if not all, of the mountain towns in Umbria, has had a colorful history marked by periodic church control, hostility with neighboring towns, (in this case it was Perugia), and internal struggles between noble families who wanted dominion and increased power. Within its walls were built an imposing city hall and a Renaissance style Ducal Palace plus an array of palazzos that surround its main piazza. Considered a part of the various republics that controlled what later became the Kingdom of Italy, Gubbio was known for its crafts in ceramics, wood, and ironwork, all of which are in evidence (and on sale) today. As to its cuisine, the “art of eating well” has long held a place in its traditions; I can personally attest to this after a lunch at la Taverna del Lupo where I indulged in an extraordinary meal.

It rained the day my group and I visited, but that didn't spoil anyone's delight; (due to the inclement weather, we couldn't go up in the funicolare so this adventure will have to wait until my next visit.) We began our tour with a visit to the Mausoleum of the Forty Martyrs; a sobering experience and a reminder of the atrocities of World War II. Towards the end of the war, a group of partisans shot and killed a German doctor; an event that had grave repercussions as the Germans lined up and shot a random grouping of 40 innocent civilians. Visiting the mausoleum one comes face-to-face with tragedy and loss as the pictures of the martyrs are on their stones...young men and women and some...members of the same family.

After a quiet visit, we drove to town and met up with Daniela, our lovely guide, who led us up and down the winding streets and through out-of-the-way neighborhoods. This was my third visit to Gubbio and each time there I become even more enchanted with its beauty and charm. The more time I spend in Umbria, the more I appreciate the history of this region and the historical, geographical, and cultural diversity of its many hillside towns.
 






 




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