A Riverboat In Russia...

Ms Tolstoy – Rivers and Canals in Russia

July 19-26, 2014

The Ms Tolstoy was home for seven days as we gently cruised along a series of canals and rivers on our way south. The Russian countryside is lovely; thick with foliage, trees, and nothing else and then dotted with homes, some simple and others large and luxurious; whatever the size, these “dachas” are, for the most part, the weekend, summer, and holiday retreats for their owners. It was a relaxing week with a stop each day to explore another town, each with its own unique story and population. While on the ship, one could “while away the hours” doing very little or take advantage of the many activities offered - Russian history and culture lectures, cooking, language, crafts, and dance instruction, blini sampling, and, since we were in Russia, there was the almost daily evening vodka party!

To get from St. Petersburg to Moscow (or the reverse), the ship had to pass through a total of 18 locks and was raised or lowered an average of 26-39 feet each passage. It's a remarkable process to watch, and, even though automatic, there must be continual communication between the operators and the crew on board. Gates are either opened or closed, depending upon whether the water in the canal needs to flood to the level outside and lower the boat or add to the amount of water in the canal to equalize it with the outside to raise the boat. Whether the first or the last time it occurred, going through a lock and experiencing this intriguing feat of engineering was always fascinating. From the Neva river to the Volga, the mightiest river in Europe, or cruising through Ladoga Lake, Europe's largest, Onega Lake, second largest and one of the world's purest lakes, or Lake Beloye, where, located on its coast is Belozersk, one of the oldest Russian towns, each day brought learning and adventure.

Mandrogi – This town was razed to the ground during the Second World War so what stands now is a reproduction of a traditional Russian settlement. Historical, cultural, and commercial projects are underway and there are numerous artisan workshops where the traditional Matryoshka dolls are made...and ready for purchase! Mandrogi is more for the tourist to get a taste of what a Russian village was like, but besides the shops, there are lovely walking trails through the trees and along the river.

Kizhi Island – One of the1650 islands in Lake Onega, Kizhi was once (1^st millennium A.D.) a center of pagan ritual and inhabitants from surrounding settlements would come to the island to burn fires, dance round dances, and pray to the Gods of Sun and Rain. The region flourished as the free land, rich forests, and abundance of fish attracted people for hundreds of years. The 2^nd half of the 16^th century brought the first mention of churches in Kizhi and the reforms of Peter the Great in the early 1700's brought an increase in construction and the growing importance of the church in everyday life. The Church of Transfiguration, the Church of the Intersession, and the Church of Lazar of Murom besides numerous chapels make up the ensemble of religious structures on the island; these, plus the centuries-old households that are now museums, have earned Kizhi the Unesco World Heritage Site title.

Goritsy – We began with a walking tour of the city led by a young woman who grew up on Goritsy and whose parents' home we had the pleasure of visiting.This was followed by meeting with the principal at the local school and then a performance done by youngsters at the school.The remains of the Nunnery of the Resurrection, founded by Princess Yefrosinya Staritskaya when she was ordered to take the veil by Ivan the Terrible is also a fascinating gem of Russian history found in this tiny settlement. The nunnery became a place of exile and imprisonment for high-born women who were considered an “inconvenience” by those who were juggling/fighting for power...and many were sent here over the years.

Yaroslavl – This city, with a population of over 600,000, is 180 miles northeast of Moscow. The story goes that its earliest inhabitants were pagan tribesmen who fervently worshiped the bear and who took delight in ambushing the traveling merchant ships. In 1010, the merchants asked Prince Yaoslav the Wise for his help so he sailed up the Volga with the cargo ships and defended them against yet another native attack. When he went ashore to reason with the tribesmen, they “threw him to the fate of a savage bear”, confident that the animal would take care of the prince. How shocked they were to see Yaroslavl kill the bear with an ax! What followed was the building of a church and the founding and naming (for himself) the city of Yaroslavl.

Uglich – Approaching Uglich was simply memorable as its churches and cathedral appeared on the horizon in stunning red, blue, and gold. The town today is "sleepy backwater", but its beauty and tragic past (war, siege, fire, political intrigue and death) have made it one of Russia's most beloved cities. It was also a favorite stop for many of us because it was here that we went to different homes for tea and a lovely cultural experience. Not to mention, its outdoor market was the last shopping stop before Moscow and its high prices!