Monday, September 1, 2014

Moscow - A Capital City On The Move...

Moscow
July 26-29, 2014

So there I was standing in front of the Kremlin on a bright, sunny morning. For someone who grew up during the Cold War era when the words Moscow and Kremlin were suspicious and potential causes of anxiety and with current USA-Russian relations being what they are, it was one of those “Well, well, look where I am now” moments. Moscow is a big, beautiful, and very busy city...the streets are wide and the use of underground passages is frequent, the historical sights are grand and imposing, the metro stations are works of art, and there is a lot of money here (perhaps in the hands of a fortunate minority, but it is here, nevertheless.) I had a wonderful time in Moscow; it was nonstop movement with much to see and do and the energy in and around Red Square, especially, was in full throttle.


 The word kremlin actually means “fortress inside a city” and there are other ancient kremlins in Russia, although the Moscow Kremlin has become synonymous with the government of the Russian Federation and does serve as the official residence of the President, although Mr. Putin has a home somewhere else. Located in the heart of Moscow, this historic fortified complex overlooks the Moskva River, St. Basil's Cathedral and Red Square, and the Alexander Garden. Included within its wall and towers are five palaces and four cathedrals...and yes, it is impressive. The site has been inhabited since the 2nd century and has witnessed all manner of destruction and reconstruction depending upon the whims of who was in charge. In the heart of the Kremlin is Cathedral Square, surrounded by six buildings, three of which are cathedrals. The Terem Palace, the Place of Facets, and the Grand Kremlin Palace, commissioned by Nicolas I in 1838 are glorious examples of the opulent and extravagant lifestyle of the czars. (The Armoury Building is the museum housing Russian state regalia and is well worth a visit.) And to keep up with modern times, as of May, 2013, there is now a Kremlin helipad authorized by President Putin for his back and forth commutes as his motorcades were disrupting the traffic in Moscow.










St. Basil's Cathedral, currently a museum and Moscow's world famous landmark, is dazzling and rather magical to behold. Built between 1555 and 1561 and commissioned by Ivan the Terrible, it's a World Heritage UNESCO site and, because it's so close to the Kremlin, is often confused with it. There are lots of legends about St. Basil's and, for a short while, there was talk of demolishing it because it interfered with Stalin's plans for mass parades on Red Square.







The GUM department store complex across Red Square, with its designer shops, flower beds, music, and glass dome is a regal spot to shop...and has delicious ice cream! Its quarter mile is not only a trading block, but a place of artistic, cultural, and political events and exhibitions and, like so many landmarks in Russia, its changes and growth are reflections of an ever-changing political and economic climate.




The magic of the metro where each station is a work of art...







Moscow is a city of history - past and present...















As in each of the major cities I was privileged to visit on this trip, I felt a strong need to go to a synagogue and my visit to the Choral Synagogue in Moscow was an emotional and thrilling experience. The main synagogue in Russia and the former Soviet Union opened in 1906, although construction, undergoing starts and stops, began in 1886. It is not visible from any major streets as the building was not allowed to be within the city walls, but the location does nothing to take away from its glorious interior and its importance for the Jewish community in Moscow.









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