Il 24 novembre
AssisiThanksgiving dawned bright and sunny and, wanting to profit from this beautiful November day, I decided to take the train to Spoleto and have my Thanksgiving meal there. I had originally planned to go to a restaurant in Assisi for a “turkey lunch”, but opted, instead, for an out-of-town adventure. Tacchino is not a popular holiday meal here at any time of year, (although a turkey can be ordered at the butcher shop), so roasting a turkey with stuffing is not on the Italian cook's “to do” list. I have purchased breaded thinly sliced turkey breasts that needed just a few minutes of cooking in the oven or on the stove with some oil which were delicious, but will wait until I get home to make my own turkey for a belated holiday celebration.
Spoleto is another one of those marvelous hillside towns in Umbria, first established between the 11th and 10th centuries a.C. (avanti Cristo B.C.) Taken over by the Romans whose presence can be seen in the ruins of an amphitheater (l'anfiteatro), theater, bridge, arch, temple, and home, it went the way of many of its neighbors, invaded by barbarian armies and later controlled by whatever country happened to be in power. Besides the “locals” who live here now, it is home to a vast assortment of churches, built anywhere from the 12th to the 18th centuries, plus high-end boutiques, shops, and charming restaurants nestled within the walls and buildings left from centuries past.
The train station is about a 20 minute walk from the old city so I was able to enjoy some of modern Spoleto on my way up the hill. Lovely tree-lined streets, stately homes, lots of apartments, markets, and the usual traffic of a busy Umbrian town made for an enjoyable jaunt in the sunshine. Arriving at the Corso G. Garibaldi, I started my climb, stopping at a fornaio to buy some bread for dinner back in Assisi. The day was meant to be pleasurable and low-key so I was in no hurry nor did I feel the need to make this a sight-seeing expedition. Seeing some of the Roman ruins and visiting la Chiesa di San Domenico (XIII-XIV century) put me right “on schedule” for lunch which I enjoyed at the Osteria del Trivio., located on a small side-street. Turkey was not on the menu so I ordered lamb chops and a glass of red wine. Intrigued by the interior of the restaurant and wanting to learn something about it, I was about to ask the owner when my lunch arrived.
The lamb chops were cooked to perfection and delicious sprinkled with some lemon juice. Just when I finished, the owner sat down across from me and started talking to a young Italian couple at the next table who were traveling in Umbria. He looked at me and mentioned that I was eating the chops with my fingers (the only way to get at the bone), something that, I suppose, Italians don't do. He asked me how I enjoyed the chops and I told him, quite honestly, that they were delicious, although a bit fatty. He looked at me and replied that they were lamb chops and supposed to be fatty, (I've loosely translated what he said), but quickly told his wife to bring me a complimentary dessert. He asked me why I hadn't ordered something more traditional and “Umbrian” and I told him it was Thanksgiving and I wanted meat...and so began my conversation with this talkative and funny man, whose name I never did get, but who I promised a return visit next spring. We talked about all sorts of things, but when I asked him what he thought of the new prime minister, he quickly replied with a shrug that he didn't discuss politics. I asked the couple at the next table if there was renewed hope in Italy now that Berlusconi was gone. They laughed and said there was always “la speranza” in Italia; the question, now, is how the multitude of problems facing this country can be solved in a way that benefits its citizens.
The five of us spoke for quite some time; I took some pictures of the owners and their daughter, and was asked for my blog address by the couple sitting next to me. When they read this, I want them to know how much I enjoyed meeting and talking with them; it was a great day made that way by the people I met. Grazie.
And just so I don't forget, dessert was homemade using family recipes-a slice of cake and several pieces of biscotti, both of which are definitely worth a trip back for.
I have been wondering about the climate in Italy post Berlusconi! Now I know. Your story of eating lamb chops with your fingers reminded me of the time I was attempting to eat like a local in Colombo, Sri Lanka (with fingers), but kept getting strange glances. My friend (from Sri Lanka) finally noticed that I was eating left handed - apparently a real no-no...
ReplyDeleteWishing you a beautiful belated Thanksgiving! V.