Lyon - And Loving It...

Lyon, France 
May 26-29

Located in the east-central part of France at the confluence of the Saone and Rhone Rivers, Lyon is the country’s third largest city after Paris and Marseille. The Lyonnais have many reasons to be proud as the cuisine and gastronomy, historical and architectural landmarks of their city have earned it the distinction of becoming a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Lyon is also an important center for banking and the chemical, pharmaceutical and biotech industries, as well as its having played an important role in the development of the silk trade and the history of cinema. Its history began in 43 BC when the Romans needed a city for refugees, but, over time, leaders saw the importance of its geographical position and made Lyon the beginning point of the main Roman roads throughout Gaul.

                                                   Roman ruins - theater and amphitheater

                                                                             Roman wall

Lyon was not fully under French control until the 14th century and its history, although one of economic growth and prosperity, also had a very dark side…the violence by Catholics against Protestant Huguenots, the destruction of public buildings and the execution of more than 2,000 people during the French Revolution, and, during World War II, the city was a center of the occupying German forces under the command of Klaus Barbie, the “Butcher of Lyon.” Head of the Gestapo in Lyon from 1942 to 1944, Barbie escaped to South America after the war, but was later captured and extradited to France in 1983. During his trial where survivors of his many tortures spoke, Barbie was held responsible for the death and deportation of thousands and  convicted of crimes against humanity. 

What I didn’t know before visiting Lyon was that the city was a stronghold of the resistance movement. The building used by the Gestapo is now the “Museum of Resistance and Deportation” providing a wealth of information about the movement and its courageous members and a chilling documentary of taped sections of Barbie’s trial. Impossible to fully express my angst and sadness when watching the film; seeing Barbie confronted by his former prisoners and his denying ever having done anything…yet another reminder of man's inhumanity to man.

After an emotional visit to the museum, I decided to spend the afternoon walking around the city. With map in hand, I set off for Place Bellecour (the city center) and was soon able to "lose myself" in the sights and sounds of "la belle France." Lyon is a bustling place full of activity and, because I speak French, I felt very much at home and simply went where my sense of direction took me and when I did "get lost" later walking the wrong way along the river, it was easy enough to ask for help. 

Lyon, like most historical cities in Europe, has both "newer" and "older" sections in completely different areas. To arrive in "Vieux Lyon", one crosses the river, either by foot or car on one of several bridges. Many of the streets in Vieux Lyon are cobble-stoned and winding and, always up for a travel challenge, I chose to walk up to the top of the hill, instead of taking the funicular, to arrive at  Fourviere Hill ( site of the early Roman settlement) for a view of the town and a visit to the Basilica of Fourviere.

And after a strenuous walk, there's nothing better than a glass of wine and a meal at a "Bouchon", a traditional lyonnaise restaurant.

                                                     

Not to be missed are the frescoes of Lyon. La fresque des lyonnais is an entire building of more than 600 square meters painted with a fresco near the banks of the Saone River; an optical illusion, a "trompe d'oeil" mural so lifelike that one feels as if one is looking at real people.

And, of course, never to be left out is a trip to Les Halles de Paul Bocuse, the market that clearly welcomes all gourmets, gourmands, and folk who simply love being surrounded by and eating glorious food!