February
15-19, 2014
Kathmandu,
Nepal
I hadn't
thought much about what Kathmandu would be like before I went, and, after spending four days there, I'm not sure that I
really understand the “pulse” of the city. Although it's
certainly much cleaner than India and the traffic is better
controlled, it's a hectic place trying to catch up to the 21st
century, but still far behind socially and economically. Scooters are
everywhere and small shops and crowded streets are prevalent.
Somewhere, however, in the middle of the noise and traffic, is the
spiritual and political history of this country where one is
transported to another place and time.
The
cultural centers of Nepal are concentrated around the Kathmandu
valley and in the heart of the ancient city is Durbar Square, a
complex of temples and shrines, both Hindu and Buddhist, architectural marvels that
epitomize the religious and cultural life of the people. Until the
early 20th century, the kings of Nepal were crowned and
lived in a palace on Hanuman-dhoka Durbar Square and, because of its importance, the square has been designated a World Heritage
Monument Site.
The weather was chilly and rainy that first day, but
the wet air didn't dampen the fascination with what we saw and
learned. Eighty percent of the country is Hindu and while only ten percent is Buddhist, a small percentage of the population, I felt, keenly, the presence of the monks when, that first afternoon, we visited Boudhanath, one of the largest Buddhist stupas (shrines) in the world.
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