Africa - As It Touched Me...

July 1, 2012

San Diego, CA

Africa is the second largest continent and, as such, to speak about it as one place would be an injustice. At last count there are 54 independent countries on or surrounding the continent, each with its own traditions, customs, and history. There are well-established and thriving countries and there are are places where dictatorship and cruelty are still the norm. I certainly cannot speak for a continent and I probably cannot speak for the four countries that I spent time in, but I can speak for what I saw and what I felt. I saw economic success and I saw poverty; I saw the technology of the 21^st century and I saw the simple life of a tribal village; I saw physical beauty and I saw squalor; I saw hope and I saw dispair. How does one even know a place after only a couple of weeks; a place so foreign in culture and history that to say “I understand” would be sheer folly and insincere. What I do know is how I was touched by what I saw; the raw nakedness of a lion stalking its prey, the graceful beauty of a giraffe walking along, the care of a mother elephant for her baby, the singing voices of children in a village school and how giving them a pencil was a treasured gift, the graciousness of a young woman in whose home I ate, and the warmth and friendship shown to me by whomever I met. Not having a crystal ball, I cannot know how long it will take for all the wrongs to be righted, for all the bellies to be filled, and for all the children to have shoes. What I do know is the pride that I saw, the hope that I felt, and the determination to build and create that I heard in the voices of those I spoke with. African spirit left its imprint on me and I will hold it preciously inside until my next visit...

Serenaded by the Children at Chinotimba Government School - Zimbabwe

Boys on the Field at Chinotimba Government School

Stepping Into Another Country Just for a Moment

The Bridge Linking Zimbabwe and Zambia at Victoria Falls

                                                                       Kasenu Village - Namibia

                                                                  Young Children at Kasenu Village                                           

A Dancing Good-Bye at Kasenu Village

The Leopard Who Put On A Show...

Il 24 giugno

Elephant Valley Lodge

Botswana

Our last morning game drive proved to be a spectacular finale for all of us, including Zambo. The animals were “aplenty” and the leopard, who had made his appearance the day before, but stayed somewhat hidden, decided to give us a show. At one point, in our thrill, there was movement in the jeep which did not please the leopard; he made his feelings known with a growl as only an annoyed leopard can. (Not only that, we found a second leopard later on in the morning!) These pictures tell the story of a safari well-done...

The Elusive Leopard No Longer...

Il 23 giugno

Chobe National Park – KasaneForest

Botswana

A guard knocked on my door at 5:00 am this morning letting me know it was time to get up. I slept very little last night so I was dressed and ready, relaxing under the covers on my heated blanket. The group met up for a quick coffee and then it was into the jeep at 5:30 so that we could arrive at the park at 6:00 when the gate opened.It was a cold Botswana morning and we were, once again, dressed in a multitude of layers which were slowly removed a few hours later as the sun warmed the air. Initially, we didn't see much activity so Zambo headed over to the watering hole where yesterday's pride of lions had camped out. Sure enough, some of them were still there and enthralled us with their playing.

We knew there were leopards in the park and had seen the remains of a “kill” a few days ago; the challenge would be to find just one...and he could be anywhere. We, fortunately, had a little help as we met another group on the road that had just found a cat. We headed over to the area and there, under the thick foliage of a tree, savoring the impala that he had killed for a hearty meal or two or three, was our leopard. Zambo had to keep shifting our jeep's position as the leopard was not making it easy to be seen, but the binoculars helped and our cameras kept clicking away. When our cat made it clear, he would not be coming out of his shelter, we headed out in search of other game. Within moments, Charles shouted “lion” and there he was, in plain sight, sitting calmly, a short distance away from a baby elephant that he had killed and already feasted upon. It was just another day in the life of this big feline, but for us in the jeep, it was another “wow” moment. After a while some cape buffalo caught his attention and, leaving the elephant to be voraciously devoured by vultures within minutes, he set out on a stalking expedition. Watching an animal stalking its prey is a fascinating experience; one can learn a lot about patience; of that, I am certain.

On the way out of the game park, always on the look-out for more animals, we spotted an impala running across the road in front of our jeep. Zambo quickly recognized the look of fear on the impala's face and, sure enough, within moments, a pack of wild dogs crossed our path, hungrily chasing the frightened animal. Zambo turned the jeep around and made a "mad dash" in pursuit and there in the distance, although easily seen, were the dogs who had already brought down the impala and were voraciously eating him...a moment of triumph for the dogs and, yes, the way of the food chain...although I couldn't help but feel that fear of a gentle animal as it fled.

Our First Lions...

Il 20 giugno

Elephant Valley Lodge

Botswana

In order to get back into Botswana, we had to once again go through two border crossings; lots of papers to fill out and stamps in our passports. After a lovely lunch at the Chobe Safari Lodge, we were driven to the Elephant Valley Lodge, located in the heart of the Kasane Forest, adjacent to the Chobe National Park. There are twenty Meru-style tents, beautifully furnished with private showers and bathroom areas and most are overlooking a waterhole which is a constant source of animal activity. The Chobe region is home to the largest population of wild elephants in the world and, after checking in and getting settled, the five of us got on the jeep in the hot afternoon sun.

www.anthology.co.za       

Since we had already seen literally hundreds of elephants plus great numbers of giraffes, zebras, cape buffalo, impalas, kudu, sable antelope, wildebeest, crocodiles, hippos, and baboons galore, our main goal on this drive was to find some cats. It was towards the end of the drive when we arrived at what seemed like an obscure watering hole that there, lounging about and relaxing in the afternoon heat, were eight lions-female adults and juveniles and a couple of cubs-male and female. We weren't very far away from them and Zambo, our fearless guide, kept repostitioning our vehicle to get us even closer. Watching the lions was memerizing and got even more exciting when a few sable antelope approached the watering hole. Two of the lions got in stalking position and it only would have been a matter of time before they attacked. We held our breaths in fascination as the antelope, keenly sensing danger, ultimately took off into the hills. It was then getting close to curfew and we needed to get out of the park quickly so Zambo “floored it” and we held on tightly, the wind and dust blowing in our faces, as the jeep seemingly flew over the dirt roads. We celebrated at dinner (roast kudu steaks outside under the stars, our table facing the waterhole) with plenty of wine and Italian chocolates; a dessert that I just happened to have in my suitcase. Hyenas howled and an owl looked down upon us...to say that it was an extaordinary day in Botswana doesn't come close...

Crocodiles, Hippos, and Birds on the Chobe River...

Il 19 giugno

Chobe River, Namibia

To the naked eye, the Chobe River is a gentle, inviting body of water that beckons one to take a dip. This would be a big mistake, however, because the Chobe River is full of crocodiles that are very ready to eat anything they come across. We were given very clear directions not to dangle any part of our bodies in the water while we were in the tender boats; this took on much significance as five of us rode across the river on that first bird-watching expedition. Crocodiles were sun-bathing along the shore, looking very innocent and sleepy until our approaching boat startled them. Coming close to one of these creatures and seeing his teeth as he took off at great speed for the water was one of those “Oh my gosh” experiences and any thought I might have had of just feeling the water, if only for a moment,was readily forgotten. The hippos, as well, were out, groups of them wallowing in the mud. There is nothing like hearing the sounds of hippos, especially during the night or at sunrise when the “world' is silent; it's a reminder of how small we are in the universe.

The birds of Africa are some of the most beautiful creatures to fly in the air. Either large and majestic or small and delicate, they are symbolic of a continent that is powerful and fragile at the same time. Watching male birds bring reeds to the nest so that the females could continue building or seeing the chicks poking out their heads in order to be fed introduced me to the joys and intrigue of bird-watching through a pair of binnoculars.

A Riverboat on the Chobe...

Il 18,19,20,21 giugno

Chobe River, Namibia

After a final morning game drive in Zimbabwe (on the 18th), we went by bus to the Botswana border. Clearing immigration, we then got on a small boat for a short ride on the Chobe River to a second border crossing so that we could enter Namibia where we would be spending most of our time. The Zambezi Queen is a luxurious river boat with fourteen suites, each having a balcony so that sunrise and sunset can be seen from the privacy of one's room or upstairs in the lounge/bar/dining area. I cannot say enough words of praise for the boat, the service, the dining, and for all who work on this “floating paradise.” Joy at the bar remembered that I enjoy sparkling wine before dinner, Rosemary made sure my suite was perfectly made up, Bernard taught me about birds and the history of Namibia, and Vincent pointed out constellations in a night sky so full of stars that its beauty cannot be described with words

www.zambeziequeen.com

There is nothing like a sunrise or sunset seen from the Chobe River. Sounds of animals, oblivious to anything but their own needs, provide a musical backdrop. There is a pervasive stillness in the air and a magic that is only found in Africa.

Video is in Namibia, not Botswana as recorded.

An African Safari in Hwange...

Il 14, 15, 16, 17, e 18 giugno

Hwange Reserve

Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe

Our morning game drives started at 7:00 am in the chilly air. We were all dressed in layers of clothing plus fleece jackets, scarves, and gloves, but, once in the jeeps, we still needed blankets to cover us. With my binoculars hanging down from my neck and my digital camera primed to aim and shoot, I was ready for an African Safari...and what a thrill every drive was... whether in the reserve or in the park.

The animals tell it better than I can...

Our First Day At Hwange...

Il 14 giugno

Hwange Safari Lodge, Zimbabwe

There was a last minute change in our inn which had some ups and downs for all of us, but the lodge has quite an interesting history which has given me a story to share. Originally, it was privately owned, but when President Mugabe took over the country it came under his control. Members of his staff and military were making themselves comfortable in this remote spot located in the Hwange Reserve when one of his advisers, sitting on the grounds of the lodge, shot at and killed an elephant while he was drinking at the watering hole. It was due to the concern of one of the “locals” who named the reserve “The President's Herd” that Mugabe even learned of it and and what had happened that he took an interest in his property. He outlawed hunting and, eventually, turned the lodge over to the original owning company.

All the rooms look out upon the reserve (the building is fenced in) and, it was with glee, that we all saw our “first” elephants in the wild gathering at the watering hole.

The pictures tell the story...