Tanzania...and the Serengeti

March, 2025

Serengeti National Park, a World Heritage Site, is one of the most spectacular ecosystems on Earth. Approximately 15,000 square miles, it is home to over 2 million ungulates (elephants, rhinos, deer, zebras, hippos, etc.), 4000 lions, 1000 leopards, 550 cheetahs, and over 500 bird species. The  Serengeti spans across Tanzania and Kenya, but is located primarily around the Arusha regions in the northern part of Tanzania.

I usually go on safari in June during the dry season, but chose March, even though it's the rainy season, so as to celebrate my birthday in the Serengeti. There were a couple of heavy rainstorms while I was there, but, fortunately, they occurred at night. There was one day of wet roads, however, and our jeep had to be pulled out of the mud! (This is why one needs to go on safari with experts who can do just about anything.)

To say that the Serengeti is magical doesn't come close to describing the beauty, splendor, and complete awe that one experiences when there. It's a place where we are reminded of our humanity or lack of; a place where we are truly at the mercy of a power far greater than we are; a place where human ego means nothing and humility and respect are called for. It is a place that is deep in my heart.

The Great Migration

 The annual northwest journey towards the Maasai Mara in Kenya when millions of wildebeest, zebras, and gazelles travel in search of fresh grazing ground and additional water sources. Herds of wildebeest and zebra have been giving birth in the Serengeti during the early winter months and thousands of newborn calves now take their first steps as they try to keep up with the rushing speed of the adults. From the jeep, as far as the eye can see, the Serengeti is covered with a blanket of wildebeest and zebras and the sight and sounds of the migrating animals is an overwhelming experience.

 

Tanzania...a bit of background

 March, 2025

Tanzania, an East African country situated just south of the equator and the 13th largest in Africa, became a sovereign state in 1964, through the joining of Tanganyika and Zanzibar. It's bordered on the east by the Indian Ocean and several other countries and lakes on the north, west, and south. Enormous stretches of plains and plateaus make up a large part of its geography along with Kilimanjaro, Africa's highest mountain in the mountainous and forested north-east and Lake Tanganyika, the world's second deepest lake.

Tanzania's history goes back to the first millennium and it became an important trading center by the mid-8th century. Like many African countries, its history experienced foreign domination, especially by Germany and England, the slave trade and forced labor, and inter-tribal rebellions. Today, Tanzania is independent with a constitution, elections, and, currently, a female president. That being said, the country has a relatively poor human rights record and critics of the government have been abused by the police. Women and men have equality before the law, although, like all over the world, cases of sexual violence, primarily within families, still exist. The positive development is that the prevalence of female genital mutilation has markedly decreased; this, primarily through the work of an organization that educates both men and women about the "barbarity" of the practice.

Education in Tanzania is compulsory until the age of 15 and an increasing number of students continue on through secondary and even tertiary education. There are over 100 languages spoken in the country, although English and Swahili are the two major ones and many young children speak Swahili as their first language.

Tanzania is considered to be a developing/emerging lower-middle income economy and depends heavily on tourism. The country's 21 national parks, game and forest reserves, and the Ngorongoro Conservation Area make it a highly desirable place for safaris, especially since Tanzania has the largest lion population in the world. 

Safe Water Ceramics of East Africa - producers of ceramic water filters that provide five years of clean water for a family

A lovely home visit - Grandma and Grandson

A visit to a Maasai village

Maasai tribes live in Kenya and Tanzania and are known for their cultural traditions, vibrant and striking attire, and strong sense of identity. Their history is one of a semi-nomadic lifestyle with cattle an indication of one's wealth and social status; the larger the herd, the stronger one's position in the group.

The chief is on the far left. Already having four wives (in this photo) there was always a possibility that he would want a fifth. Even though he kissed my hand, I made sure not to encourage his affections!

The chief's son who taught us about Maasai history, going back to the beginning, and patiently answered our questions about daily life and customs in his village.

One of many lovely Maasai women, known for their beadwork, among other talents.

A traditional Maasai dwelling. Each one of chief's wives has her own home, although the children and grandchildren often spend time together doing their homework, playing games, or just having a sleepover.

Tanzania...and the beginning of a new story

March, 2025

There is something about Africa that deeply soothes my heart. I've been privileged to have spent time in eight sub-Saharan countries, each visit with a safari as its focus. To be surrounded by the majesty of animals who live as they were intended, the beauty, the grace, the raw power, both of predator and prey, always leaves me in awe and ever mindful that when they fight, it is for their survival and nothing else.

Although I spent time in Tanzania over ten years ago, I chose to return to celebrate a special birthday in a tent camp in the Serengeti...and I could not have asked for a better place to make a wish and blow out the candles on my cake.

It wasn't only the animals that touched me, however, but also the most delightful, gracious, and welcoming Tanzanians who became a part of my life, if only for a small space of time.

A brief intro to my adventure...

A Riverboat Adventure On The Seine...

France

May 13-26, 2019

A lovely and relaxing way to explore the countryside, not seen when one is only on land, is to take a riverboat cruise. It was a relatively last minute decision to go as I was in the throes of a cross-country move and building a home, but the change of scenery was a perfect way to fully unwind and enjoy all things French; food, wine, and shopping.

This trip was titled  “France Culinary Delights: Paris to Normandy” and, even though I had already been to most of the the stops along the way, some more than once, it was meaningful just the same. I have found that visiting a place even several times can only enhance one’s understanding and delight as there is always something new to see and learn about the history and people living there.

We began and ended in Paris, a city I once knew “by heart” and, I must admit, it was a bit of a jolt to see the changes. No longer is the Eiffel Tower a stand-alone wonder, but, not too far away, there are multi-story apartments and hotels overlooking the Seine; a bit of an eyesore in my opinion. I remember the days, yes, it was a long time ago, when I lived in Paris and could visit the Eiffel Tower whenever I had the urge. Now, the entire area is enclosed with a plexiglass wall, a way to secure the premises in our ever-increasing violent world.

My very first trip to France was when I was 16; a month in Paris and the southwest with friends of my parents. I will never forget standing in front of Notre Dame and realizing, perhaps for the first time, that our country was, indeed, still in its infancy. It was also at that moment that I fell in love with a city that was to be my home for my first two college years. Seeing Notre Dame after the fire was painful; its days of glory and its majesty forever tarnished.

The city was filled with tourists bustling about, but there is something about being in Paris, despite the crowds and the many changes, that still fills me with excitement. My French language skills got a good work-out during this trip; having lunch in the Marais and drinking a beer,  I chatted with the couple sitting at the next table. It was like that wherever I was and by the time I got home, I was feeling very “French!”

The boat docked in several lovely spots, each one another taste of adventure. Conflans was the site of antique wooden barges having been converted into charming houseboats. Auvers-sur-Oise had a “Footsteps of Van Gogh” tour and learning about a tormented artist whose paintings are a gift to all of us. The next day was Giverny and the home, studio, and gardens of Claude Monet; the gardens, alone, were well worth the trip.

                                                                  Vincent Van Gogh

Claude Monet

Caudebec en Caux and we toured the remarkable ruins of the Jumieges Abbey and the Abbey of St. Wandrille. The latter is still home to a small community of monks living the monastic traditions begun in 649. As we were in Upper Normandy, back on the boat there was Calvados, local cheese tasting, and the famous apple tart of the region.

                                                                   Jumieges Abbey

Abbey of St. Wandrille

Honfleur was the next stop, a most delightful town that I first visited in 2000 and remembered as being quaint and sleepy. Fast forward nineteen years and there is activity everywhere - boutiques and restaurants galore, but the charm of the place and the beauty of La Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Grace haven’t changed.

La Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Grace

Typical Architecture of the Region

The American Cemetery and the Normandy invasion beaches were a poignant and emotional time for all of us. As our visit preceded the arrival of world leaders for the anniversary celebration of the

D-Day Landing, the cemetery was cordoned off so one could only walk around it. Even so, the solemnity of the place and the sadness at the loss of life were felt wherever one walked, wherever one looked.

German Bunkers

Bayeux and the remarkable Bayeux Tapestry, that marvelous 230 foot embroidered cloth depicting events that led up to the 1066 Norman conquest of England, Le Havre, and a tour of the Fecamp Benedictine monastery where I discovered that its famous liqueur made up of 27 secret herbs and spices was quite pleasing to my palate!

                                                      Fecamp Benedictine Monastery

In Rouen, we celebrated Joan of Arc as well as Julia Child. Lunching at La Couronne, the oldest inn in France and the restaurant that was the catalyst for Julia’s culinary career, was an indulgent treat. Needing to walk off the food and drink afterwards, my friend, Karen and I went on a shopping spree at Le Printemps. It was an expensive, but glorious day!

                                        Rouen is known as the "City of a Hundred Spires"              

Cathedrale Notre-Dame de Rouen

Its cast iron spire is the highest in France. Erected in 1876, it rises 490 feet above the cathedral.

Local Architecture

La Couronne

St. Joan of Arc

The final stop before arriving back in Paris was at the picturesque village of Les Andelys. A hike to visit the ruins of an old chateau, half-timbered houses and ancient churches, and a sense of calm; it would be a lovely place to spend a few days.

This riverboat journey definitely lived up to its name; we were wined and dined each day and sampled many of the local delicacies of the region. There were daily excursions, but plenty of time to relax and simply “be.” I returned home refreshed plus a couple of pounds heavier!

Now, the “gypsy” in me is thinking that my suitcases need a dusting and another adventure. Stay tuned!